Nickfromwales

@Adsibob A bit embarrassing for you, but I think you may have inadvertently created an avatar with BoJo and some clown makeup? He's clearly a Muppet

OK, so those are the outlets? Where are the inlets? Needs equal volume in both directions.

Why not box these in lower down, and make them look like a low surface temp radiator for eg? Where does it suck air in / blow it out again?

Thanks. That price is just taking the piss tbh.

It puts you in in far more control of the spending, plus it will make costs more transparent. The professionals around you probably dislike that as it means their costs can be better scrutinised when the project becomes fragmented. Get to weathertight, shell, roof, door and windows, and get a blower test done to prove integrity. Dust yourself down, inject some steroids directly into each testicle, and ( with all the spare time you have ) drive the project independently from there. You may have a native for support to get you through the tough times…..but tbh, after you’re weathertight, it’s pretty much plain sailing. Time to use the ones you need for the jobs you need them for ONLY, then it’s time to cut out the dead wood. “Make it so, No.2” 😎

Glad you’re moving forwards. Is there a PoE Ring Video-doorbell?

Just raise the slabs on the pedestals and leave alone. Unless you can get the best roofer in the country to pul that outlet apart and redo it, I’d not open that can of worms tbh.

No need for apologies lol. SLC isn’t typically ‘flexible’, so not normally put over decoupling membranes. If the membrane is down, you could use a “renovation screed’” which is flexible as it’s fibre-impregnated. You’d lay a thicker mix of this vs allow it to self-level if graduating the floor, or leave it ‘runny’ if filling in dips / raising a larger area. You’ll see the recommended water : product ratio on the packaging, so just dial that back 5% if you don’t want it to run away too far from the target area. If only needing to make up 3-5mm I’d just get them to do that with tile adhesive as they’re laying tbh, 5mm+ then got to renovation screed over membrane. How much area needs ‘correcting’?

@ProDave Is a conduit in insulation subject to de-rating?

So? £16k + £30k + £7.5k and then possibly + £5k = £58.5k total you’re paying for the entire plumbing install as described?

If the circuit is fed via an earth protected device eg RCD > MCB / RCBO then you can run cables in a shallow chase, if in a safety zone, or chased ~50mm deep if not in a safety zone. Thats the standard observed by most sparks.

Where do you tell the system how long it takes for action to convert in to a reaction? You can’t, ergo ‘human intervention’ for cooling is inevitable for these sporadic overheat events afaic. @jack, when do you initiate you’re cooling? Crack of dawn on a day where you expect to be uncomfortably hot? The night before?

Install the front door, then lock it, and only allow 3rd parties to use the back door. Cover the threshold and buy some £5 strips of PVC 25x25mm angle to stop any damage to the frame by accidental / careless traffic. For any instances where opening the front door are sensible / practical / outright necessary, be there to open it, monitor, then lock it again.

Amen. Blown cellulose is just too good to not use for these situations. I would not, however, go for I-joists, but would instead go for posi-joists eg so the cold bridging was as low as possible. Cellulose fills all the voids when pumped ( blown ) in, so no probs there. Also allows a place to hide MVHR ducts in vaulted ceilings , just remember to keep the ducts tight to the upper side of the inner chord.

My points in a nutshell.... ?

Exactly what I suggested via PM , categorically avoiding making any high points any higher.

I started off at 17, but it wasn't aggressive enough, so went to 16. I thought the hysteresis would be a problem if i went to 15, with the stat cutting out at 14, and back in again at 16. Trial and error atm. Also very difficult to manipulate this in the recent spate of uber hot weather. The UK is not "cooling friendly", that's the biggest issue. Add in a passive raft and extended decrement delay / very long thermal time constants etc and it's is ( IMHO ) near impossible to remove the 'human' element for ultimate control ( via prediction and reaction ).

Same issue I'm having hitting a sweet spot with a clients build...... Slab and house temps have such a slow response vs what the system "expects". Prevention vs cure is paramount criteria.

I’m installing Hager for one client, and have installed CPN, Contactum, MK and Wylex. Hager is good kit but expensive, and the Contactum seemed very good quality and plenty good enough quality / robustness etc so will go with one of those again. I’ve been installing Contactum for 20+ years, and I cannot recall a single issue. I’ve recently put the Defender CU in my shed / man-cave and have the previous one was their 3ph offering ( converted to 1ph ) which also impressed fore the money. Can’t recall where I heard it, but apparently MK are getting out of the domestic CU market, so maybe support will dwindle too. Defo all RCBO, that’s a no-brainier. Dual RCD boards should be removed from the market imo just on reliability / redundancy alone. Why we still accept losing all or half of the house for one failed device is beyond me. A cheap ( £25 ) emergency light in the same room as the CU / in the CU cupboard is a help if the ‘lights go out’. On a current domestic 4-storey project I am installing strategic emergency light fittings ( annoying green status LED hidden or located remotely btw ) so the client can get up / down stairs and main thoroughfares in a blackout plus another in the CU room.

It's a roof! Do you worry whilst it's pi55ing down with torrential rain for 24 hours? Nope. You turn the TV on and have a nice cup of tea. Time for a day off people!

You will always have a standing seam there, regardless of which layer is down first / second etc. The OSB is the base layer, then one section of membrane one level, and the outlet fold another.....and they must overlay each other which creates the 'dam'. When a roof is virtually flat there's zero you can do to make this immaculate.

Leave well alone, you’ll make it worse not better. A disaster it is not, and all it requires is your absence Get down off your roof and go to the pub. That’s an order!!

Bonjour! Plenty of info on here, you’ll just need to dig through a bit to get to the gold

No, it’s was 100mm ‘out’, not thick

Why not mount the pump at the source of the 22mm flow and return pipes instead of in the wall? It’ll be virtually silent then.