Nickfromwales

You may have to cut the pipes back slightly. May the force be with you.

Hi. So do you have a concrete floor or a floating floor with a ventilated void? Any insulation anywhere that you know of?

Thanks, I can see the residual silicone upon closer inspection. Glad to hear.

28mm stopcock won’t upset the flow rate. I wouldn’t fit another lever valve tbh.

32mm from house to street? Is that 28mm pipe and a 28mm lever valve?

Expensive, but good. Worth the extra £10. https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-stopcock-22mm/18986

It shouldn’t be in there, as a primary stopcock is supposed to be a proper stop-tap. Change it to a 22mm x 22mm stopcock and if it ever fails again, you just screw the guts out and overhaul it in situ.

I just removed a cheap experimental one that I bought off eBay, an all metal ( stainless steel ) one, but it got stuck closed. Binned it. Moving electromechanical parts in an inaccessible place equals failure. The icon fans need a monthly dust out, but perform flawlessly. Just the noise is kissing me off ( going back from a silent in-line fan. ) so improvements are to follow.

Aye. It’s time for a new one! 😑

Probably OSB trays with pipes laid in a pug ( biscuit ) mix screed @ProDave may have detailed this on his blog(?). If too intrusive, you could use aluminium spreader plates. The focus on detailing here needs to be about making the void 'warmer' and less drafty, so fully filling the width with PIR and foaming the gaps will be a good place to start. I fear this system is currently wasting a LOT of the available heat energy keeping these layers of wood warm, with little then left to rise upwards as space heating. The installer hasn't looked into this properly, and therefore hasn't mitigated against these associated ( accumulative ) losses when working out what's needed. You could go back to rads upstairs, but they'd need to be huge.

A 1/4 turn valve or a proper mains stopcock? Pic please.

Is this one hole for a single ~50mm service, or do you need a transit for multiple cables / small bore pipes?

If you have a means of cooking, eg an oven, then no.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

I doubt they are in a rush..... Constant remote-controlled grid charge / discharge beats the crap out of your battery. You get to replace it at your cost, they walk away the better in the end. IIRC Tesla have the gateway, a costly item and a very slow changeover from grid down to UPS on. Much better hybrid stuff out there for a LOT less money.

Does the white GRP enclosure reside within? If so, I can't see a problem. I've seen much worse!

That UFH system is “less than suitable”. There…..I didn’t say “bag of shit”. Gold star for Nick

This will be leaking behind the base of the chrome wall channel also. The installer of the bath and wall panels should have left you with a continuous bead of sealant right along and across the bath / wall junction, with it visible at the outside edge of the chrome wall channel. Issue is, water runs down the inside of the chrome wall channel, and capillary action pulls the water inside that ‘box’ section. That then flows down to the bottom of the inside of the box, and the only way out is to drain into the gap between the bath and wall ( under the base of screen wall channel and completely out of sight ). The number creator of almost 100% of the insurance work I used to get given.

Not a chance sorry.

In this type of dwelling, the 1st floor joist voids will be notorious for ventilation heat loss aka drafts. I’m afraid all the heat is likely getting literally sucked out of there by the joists bring cut into the internal leaf of the block wall. This may have been refurbished with a not-so-good eye in terms of accepting UFH as the only heat emitters. The carpets are your enemy also, could you accept a bonded, engineered wooden floor up there, at least in the worst affected rooms? ( eg leave the landing carpeted ). Exactly which product was used and exactly how was it installed for the 1st floor?

That means a attaining a very ( very ) good AT score? That would be sub 0.6ACH with 1.0 being quite admirable.

If it’s an RS ( room sealed ) appliance, yes. Look to see if it’s a coaxial flue ( pipe in pipe ).