Nickfromwales

You cannot have EPS in contact with PVC electrical cables.

https://myhouseandstuff.wordpress.com/2016/04/03/how-to-install-window-ventilation-on-upvc-windows/

Yup. You don’t need a router, most are done in the factory by a gibbon with a drill and they simply do a series of holes, then ream them out to make a ‘slot’. Few minutes work max in PVC.

Where is the toilet? Ground floor or first?

Also chat with your window supplier, as trickle vents should be a retro fit option afaik.

Defo one for “less haste, more speed”

Look also at Wunda, as they seem to have a lot more info on their site. May be worth considering their options, but I have no idea of price comparability etc.

Gives pretty much constant, instant hot water production. Oil + TS is a very good solution for DHW. Same with gas, but gas starts to throttle down as it nears the set temp, oil doesn’t.

Another which needs to be put to your BCO, as they will have to agree this with you before you order anything.

We can advise, but you absolutely MUST get this answered by your BCO!! If you don’t, on your head be it. Your paying for the privilege, so use that to your advantage, and ask all these questions directly, noting the answers. Saves doing things twice, at 4 times the price. Consider where these rise, as sticking them in the corners is what we did 30 years ago. I design the slabs for my clients and out the rising foul water pipes where I want them, deleting long horizontal runs and certainly zero boxing in etc. Don’t rush this, take some time and give it some thought. Do you want a sunken shower tray / wet room former on the ground floor? If so, you’ll need a shuttered out section of slab, and a dedicated FW riser, sunken, to take the waste from it. Measure 3 or 4 times, cut once. 👍

Sorry, higher surface area coil ( same as a high recovery coil in an UVC ). I specify a 28mm DHW coil to get far better flow rates and connect to a 28mm TMV, then reduce to 22mm pipe work to go to distribution manifolds etc. For the TS, you do not have a coil between the TS and the oil boiler, which allows you to dump the huge amount of heat it produces per burn, directly to that internal volume of brine ( primary ) water, by going at that directly.

First thing to check. Turn the system off, let it go 'cold' and then switch on at max. See which of the flow and return pipes get hot first to eliminate reversed flow to one of the two manifolds. Opening the TMV's should increase flow on both, so something strange going on there.

They do, sometimes surprisingly, say yes. Always ask

English Brothers have not bowled my current clients over, but there are no perfect TF companies ( given all that I’ve seen ). MBC TF seem quite steady, with ups and downs to boot, but each instance yields the best final results I’ve seen to date. I’ve worked on both of their passive offerings a number of times ( PIR + wool and Warm-cell blown frames ) and am very impressed with both. The Warm-cell blown frames win hands-down imho. Graveyard silent ( resilience to outside noise ) and huge thermal time constant with excellent decrement delay. PIR filled frames and roofs do not compare very well at all, again imho.

Hi. Your drawing uses the same CAD package as I’ve been using for the last 20 years…… Crayon Aided Design 👍😎 I assume it’s a combi boiler you have as you don’t show a cylinder?

My work here is done….✅

Combination ‘appliance’ traps are horrible gurgley noisy things. Can you get a washing machine up stand in there to take both discharges? Link You simply fit a compression T into this and create 2x up stands for both discharge hoses to ‘poke’ into. You can go ‘posh’ and fit one of these; Link on top of that single up stand to be completely silent ( very close to ) during discharge. A client of mine has recently employed a 2nd fix plumber, and he’s connected their washing machine to a combination waste and it’s noisy as feck. 👎. A good reminder to never do that.

https://cvcsystems.co.uk/our-products/brink-flair-400/ 750 x 650 x 560. I fit these on every single one of my M&E projects. Excellent results and reasonably priced for what they offer / how they perform.

For completeness, you will not, I repeat NOT, be putting in the gulley pots that the fannys have recommended. 👊.

Nope. We use a waterless trap for connecting things which don’t discharge daily / weekly. https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-macvalve-1-self-closing-valve/p26058?store=JT&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiApvebBhAvEiwAe7mHSFZxKSNNne-U_rdi4E9jpOrsCTjoaEruvU6gpyuCuMDJ7XT1oiycNRoC8kgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#full-desc Commonly known as a ‘fanny’ trap….. ( your M&E guys should be familiar with that phrase ).

Woodcrete is not sufficient for screwing things like kitchen units to. You can install strips of plywood, and put lots of screws through that, into the woodcrete and over a much bigger footprint, but not directly afaic. It has pockets where there is great purchase for fixings, and then voids with naff all, same as the Velox build I’m on atm.

It will either be capped or have a 110mm AAV atop. The connections to it will end with traps at appliances / outlets eg no pipe work directly open to atmosphere. 👊

They mix up definitions there, so their statement is essentially cannon-fodder. What they refer to is a single rising foul pipe that terminates at an appliance without 110mm ( or any ) need for ( or presence of ) air admittance. For eg; You can have a foul connection to a ground floor WC which simply has a pipe rising out of the slab that a bent pan connector is then fitted into. Then the WC pushes back onto that pan connector. Job done. The gotcha is, that at, or lesser than the aforementioned 1.3m, you will not get sufficient vacuum in the vertical pipe ( caused by the flushed water / solids forming a pellet and sucking air downwards behind it as it falls to the invert ) to require full and proper air admittance on that particular connection, or indeed cause any detriment whatsoever. If for eg, you repeat this on the 1st floor, when you flush and the pellet heads south, there will be a significant vacuum created behind the falling pellet and any traps, plus the throat of the WC itself, will all be sucked dry. That then leaves stench to enter the room via the foul connection as the trapped water in the traps is no longer there. So; If the external groundwork’s are very deep you could still require an AAV on even a ground floor WC, but NOT if the invert of the outlet of the WC and the invert of the external soil network are at, or less than, 1300mm apart. Note, the term invert refers to the lowest point where the flushed items turn to horizontal after falling vertically down. ( in a nutshell 🌰). Stub stacks are normally seen boxed in at around 1200mm off the floor in bathrooms of yesteryear, and typically will have a removable top / panel to gain access for service of, a full 4” ( 110mm ) AAV fitted atop the stub. These are often introduced where there is also a basin, or a shower / bath / sink connected to the same rising foul pipe. These need to be protected from the vacuum, so a knee-jerk AAV on top of the stub stack will be fitted for ‘Justin’, sometimes even if completely unnecessary. Best to identify where these are necessary so as to avoid ugly boxing-in in bathrooms etc. Justin case.

Hi. You don’t need an air gap internally, more a service void for pipes and cables etc. You can get liquid membranes also, such as Passive Purple ( check out Intelligent Membranes online for more product info / suitability etc ) which can go internally. Other than that, it sounds as though your on the right track. What nasty stuff is currently in the cavity? Beads or wool? If wool, that needs professional removal first, as this can have problems later in life which you may not be insured against if not removed ( and certified ? ).

Or, don’t listen to the bell-ends that gave you that advice, and install stub stacks and NOT chuffing gully traps. Will save considerably on dog food also.