Nickfromwales

Ahem, reverend 👊😎👌

Lasts the duration. Not the immaculate solution but does exactly what it says on the tin. I’m sure it remains inactive when suspended in water, and reacts when introduced to atmosphere. My spider sense says drain out afterwards, but probably harmless tbh. Manufacturers instructions say its fine to stay in…..

Hi, and welcome. Are you looking to avoid a retro fit of a wet heating system ( rads and pipe work )?

@SarahG Ask yourself what you don’t know, and what stage you’d be comfortable being fully in charge of a construction project, and then have a reality check. Loads of people keep reasonably quiet about the adversities, negatives, stress and losses from what they thought would be a, seemingly, easily manageable undertaking. There are others who micro-manage everything in life, and have the time to do so. Some who are naturally ‘managerial’, regardless of the pursuit, and who will come off better simply due to a huge investment in time / research. They’re usually self employed, semi or fully retired etc, and have this time. Others don’t / aren’t and have to use the gaps in between, and hope that time is suffice. The sacrifice is personal / family life and sanity, and when they get compromised so do you. And that’s if it’s all going well……. Choose a very good general builder and get out of the way up until weathertight, then at that stage see how you feel you’ve coped as a passenger. At weathertight you can relax a bit, bank would have released more funds, if you’re borrowing, and you can pause for thought to plan the final push with fit and finish both inside and out. Much less stress and far less consequences if you make simple faux pas here and there, by comparison, vs what trouble you could get into getting the shell up. Assume nothing, check EVERYTHING, as you will be the only truly diligent person(s) on your build.

Unless you can find the offending leak, which will be tiny and probably evaporates each time the heating warms through, you may be better off dosing with Sentinel leak sealer and running it at max for a few hours. It's shit-hot stuff and works incredibly quickly. I would recommend, once dosed and the leak sealed, emptying and refilling the system to get back to just water / inhibitor mix ( or as close to ) for the remainder of the life of the system, only re-dosing if the problem reoccurs.

“Iceberg, dead ahead!” 😎👍👊

It can be rotated on its axis, to gain access to the filter, but I can't see anywhere where it states ( either way ) that it is orientation dependant. I suppose this would be a question for Brink Tech Support.

Not normally. Can you post a pic? Theyre usually inserted into a ‘dry pocket’ so don’t require a drain down to replace.

No, I was too busy scoffing pies, Baldrick

I have relayed to Peter my own dire experiences with the Evohome system, installed for 2 clients ( one a brand new ZEB performance passive dwelling, and another an old stone cottage ) and I ( and the clients ) suffered irreparably for both accounts. Painfully difficult to set up when you go to multi-zone / multi sensor, and after-sales and "tech" ( LOL ) support is a fcuking joke. I am currently boxing the aforementioned installed equipment for delivery back to HW and have requested a full retail price refund to be issued to the client. FYI, I have purchased from HW over the past 25+ years, and will continue to do so, however their EvH system will NEVER EVER be up for consideration on ANY of my up=coming clients new build projects. 👎

You can relax, I'm "sport-immune". 😎 I'm not quite the quintessential 'Taff' I'm afraid Discernibly refined, and, of course, "tits only" on every single first date, without deviation. A true gent, and a connoisseur of life if you like. LINK Something like this may suffice. Somebody else on here has posted a different unit, but I cannot find it.

Hi. Alarm bells are ringing quite loudly here. a 9kW electric boiler ( won't scrape the surface in winter ) and a 16kW ASHP ( a good mono block will offer 65oC max with quite a poor CoP unless it is a high temp split unit with internal compressor unit ) will perform much worse in winter than the typically 'advertised' figures gleefully state. The LLH will be completely unsuitable for you, so forget that and look towards fitting a 100L minimum size buffer tank for all this hydraulic separation and multi-fuel integration or don't get started at all. In honest, I'd ditch all of the above; as it will be fatally flawed when these ToU tariffs end up evaporating, or ( inevitably ) the unit costs rises as we know it will, dramatically. I would look at A2A space heating via 'air-con' units to best convert electricity into heat tbh. Do you have solar PV? Sucking up cheap rate electricity and then extracting it at a high rate of knots ( in expensive to buy and short-lifespan batteries ) isn't good maths imho when purchasing 'retail'. Add up the cost of all this, and then put that into a hypothetical savings account. Then work out how much gas you could have bought with all that money....... It will startle you, I'm sure. Remember that a split A2A A/C system will also cool in the summer a big bonus! K.I.S.S.

Elaborate, please?

Hi. Any T connection to an existing pipe run is called a "branch", and regardless of pitch it is still a "change in direction" so will require either; 1) An IC to allow rodding access at said branch or 2) Accessible rodding access inside the house where the pipe terminates vertically, immediately upon entering the dwelling. The latter is quite undesirable, due to having to create access for rodding / maintenance, and I would certainly go for adding an external IC. Ultimately this will be down to your building control officer's decision, and not yours or 'ours'

They can be run at the same time, but my point was during summer ( most of it ) where the RWH tank cold fill system would be filling off the mains at the same time you want max cold mains potential yourself for showers etc, even more of an annoyance if the supply is already meagre. Filling the bog is not life or death, nor any appliances, they’ll just ‘eventually’ fill, but if you want a shower then it’s likely ( and no, not for you ) that the DHW device will be very much cold mains dependant. 👎. How is this set up? When I checked the regs you could not create a physical link between RHW and the potable mains supply, so no 2 position valve etc ( or a setup like a softener bypass ) is permissible. The only thing I could see to do this with was a boiler filling loop, 2 lots of double check non returns, and a removable filling link which could only be connected to one or the other, and NEVER the two supplies together.

So with a conservative install cost of £5k start to finish you’d need to be able to completely fill and completely empty this ~240 times to cover purchase price, without ever using the mains.

Likewise.

Nope.

Will you be running outside taps off this also, for gardening / window cleaning / jet washing patios? If not, then I wouldn’t install one tbh, as the investment doesn’t ever look holistically kosher to me when I’m asked to include one for a new build client. Unless you’re maximising the savings by seriously offsetting your mains water dependable then I’d seriously spend this money on more PV which makes far more sense. Cost of system plus cost of installation, maintenance / cleaning filters, inevitable pump replacement, additional segregated plumbing system in the house, electrical consumption during operation etc etc vs just buying water from the mains doesn’t make sense at all to me, unless you go for a huge tank say 10,000L which WOULD make sense, just about. I’ve recommended to a recent few clients not to bother with RWH unless the size of the tank is a minimum of 7-8000L, as when you get a dry spell <2500L of a typical 3000L tank will be gone quite quickly and you’ll be back to running off mains supply anyways. When it’s raining there’s more water than you’ll need even for outside taps etc as the garden is already wet and you’re inside in the dry not using them / washing car / windows / patio etc. Then add the inconvenience of typically having to have an indoors break tank for the pump to fill, which means you then have a gravity feed to WC’s and W/M, and then that’s me out completely. Most modern cisterns won’t be suitable for such low pressure supplies, and I had to swap out the fill valves on the 1st floor WCs for one client ( who had already self installed the tank ). You’ll need ‘attic’ space to install this coffin tank if you want any useful pressure ( head ), and access to it for maintenance, plus accept the noise of it filling and emptying. Or, depending on the size of system, you may need an accumulator for attenuation if the gravity break tank isn’t an option. Another pita is, when you eventually need to run off potable mains water, that will be when you prob still have over 500L or more left in a 3000L tank, ( eg when the pump float drops down and mains feed system kicks in to top you up from metered, potable water ) and that 500L capacity is rendered unusable for the lifetime of the system. Not sure if some manufacturers state useful capacity vs capacity? Salespeople rarely dwell on negatives btw This system is designed to not fully fill the tank when consuming potable mains water, so, for periods of little or no rainfall ( aka summer ) the frequency of the pump running will be far greater than in the rainy seasons, further labouring and fatiguing the expensive pump. Then the mains filling ( run dry / failsafe ) system needs detailing; This is normally achieved by installing a rainwater gulley trap in the floor under the stairs / utility / other inside the dwelling, and a cold mains water feed then gets poured into this via a solenoid and an open pipe feeding mains water into a tundish > gulley, eg to eventually get to the tank but purposefully indirectly . FYI, you are NOT allowed to install the cold water feed in the turret of the tank as RHW is classed as Cat5 water ( as bad as sewerage ) and an A/B ( iirc ) air break between potable mains supply and the RWH must exist for water bylaws compliance. For a previous client, we ended up putting this into the garden shed, as there was zero chance ever of me installing a rainwater gully inside a residential domestic dwelling!! Plus the noise of the water gushing into an open tundish would be less than ideal afaic. That could be timed but it’s not recommended, ergo this could go into ‘fill mode’ whilst you’re trying to shower, sapping valuable cold mains pressure for extended periods of time, and often……. The pump failing once every 10 years will pretty much wipe out that decades savings for a small capacity system. Looks great on paper no doubt, but not in reality. So, no from me, unless the numbers make sense, which they don’t. Buy more PV instead.

PM me if you need help to spec the TS, and don’t forget to go via Trevor at cylinders2go, mentioning my username and the forum. He’ll look after you 👍

It is symptomatic of a failed AAV. What does the stack do after it rises from the ground floor > bedroom?

If you like gurgles, then agreed with top pipe T.

Yup, yup…..and thrice, yup.

Dead simple. Telford TS, 28mm DHW coil, no other coils. Oil > TS primary water. 22 or 28mm circs, depending on size of boiler, 21-26 will be fine on 22mm circs. Set the stat and boiler flow temps to suit and away we go 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 You’ll want high and low stat pockets in the cylinder to be able to better reference / respond, vs the one cyl stat. Will give you guest mode then, more stored ( heated ) primary water for sporadic higher usage. A bit like the old “basin / bath” setups on the old E7 / E10 cylinders of yesteryear.

Has someone stood in the utility whilst the WC is flushed to listen for pipes ‘burping’ out stench from the foul system?