Nickfromwales

Manifold + blender + pump? Or buffer > pump > manifold with no temp control? I use these LINK

Depends on the size of the aggregate I suppose, as the float will just roll over them if they're bigger than the gap. Just take some measurements from datum timbers set into the ground outside of the slab and you'll not struggle to find them afterwards, then you can make them an inch lower than TOC to guarantee the power-float can whizz over them. Take lots of pics / measurements You go and pick these out whilst the floated concrete is 'green', like literally as soon as you can walk on it.

I assume you’re putting straight couplers onto each, and then the blank plug goes into that just below the surface?

Happy days! Just go with the concrete as anything else will be noisy to walk up / down on. The builder will need to shutter each step, but also to affix (with a gas nailer most prob) something like Expamet LINK to ensure the concrete stays in situ. Priming with neat SBR will help too.

Not quite! Just go buy a box of PB screws and screw one in every 150-180mm and do that along each joist. DIY job tbh, and you'll know it's done correctly then. Then just fill each one and get the decorator to sand back and paint again. May as well just yank off the band-aid and deal with this once.

Yes, but you'll then just get a dot of light, if that's ok?

Usually a min dispersion of 24° or 36°.

Dispersion is pretty much unmanageable with LED strips. Would you not be better off installing the strip near to the inside edge of the upper opening ‘door’? You can then have a stubby timber pelmet which stops the light from shining ‘inwards’.

Some builders just can't take the needle off the record. Soooo much concrete and blocks! The ship has sailed, so onwards we must go! What has the building control officer specified? How do you plan on meeting the minimum standard that they will mandate, especially for a heated floor? Should be around 140mm of PIR under this. What has been requested?

Just need to position the LED strip so the glare / reflection doesn't affect the user (from reflection off the monitor).

It has it's uses if the house is enormous, and you need a packed lunch to travel between switches, but after that I'd rather spend the huge amount of money required on a holiday.

Just think of the time, money, and effort one could save if scene setting wasn't "life or death"..... Once you live with the (then seemingly rational) constraints of the choices you made during the design and construction phases, you may regret this pursuit and it's price tag. All I hear from adopters of HA is how it has a short lifespan, support and equipment longevity issues (becoming obsolete), and how much it costs when shit breaks, and then breaks again. And again.

Why B&B 1st floor?? Massive OTT.

Have you tried the threat of violence? Seems it would save you a fortune......

They'd only be able to turn the light on once it is opened. Job done.

I use these LINK and you just swipe your hand in front of them, a-la a mirror light bathroom cabinet. For LED strip just go on Amazon / other and buy a 5m roll for cheap as chips and you can cut these every 3 LED's to the length you want. Look for one that is a kit so you get the PSU etc with it.

Yup. Don't shout at the painter. If they were pole sanding then you should commend them, as a lot won't bother as it's hard work BUT it is necessary for flat smooth surfaces and an excellent finish. The person who screwed the boards on has likely used too few screws, and the boards have pulled away from / were never tight against the joists. Every refurb I ever did, which had plasterboard nails and not screws, but where we were to plaster over artex etc, I always got my drywall screw-gun and put screws in every 6-8". You could literally see the boards pulling up to the joists as you went along the joist, and almost every single nail would pop. This is the fault of the boarders, and bean-counting the screws.

Lindab?

Are you saying block walls upstairs? What is the first floor made up from? Another B&B level / posi-joists / other?

Yup, I asked as I don't think I've ever seen so many on one domestic floor before!! I lost count at 15 seemingly unnecessary beams . The problem is, where these are there will be huge thermal (cold) bridges to address, so wondered if any could be cut out. This appears to be a can of worms tbh.

Where are you building? If you don't mind me asking? Are there a lot of load-bearing walls rising?

If you are renting it, then leave well alone?

VIP's will also bankrupt you Knock the blocks out, sell them for hardcore, and insulate with the beam(fill) insulation option(s). You pay for insulation once, and energy to heat for the rest of your life. "Fabric first, people!!".

Do you need it to be Luxone (or anything else HA) friendly ? I'll be making mine 'fit and forget' and it'll be accessible via the 'net, so that will be all I need from it.