Nickfromwales

I'll labour for you 'mate' lol.

A 'tad' pricy, lol, but more importantly the buffer seems quite small.

Welcome aboard! Just look at the various forums and choose which suit the topic, and the answers will follow

18mm deck is pretty much only used for matching to existing, with 22mm as the 'norm' these days. If I was specifying this for a client, where I wore the liability, this would have had 9mm or 12mm ply for belt & braces, and I'd have preferred that you glued the ply as well as screwed it. Seeing these types of floors laid over all sorts of crap over the years makes me believe that they are a bit more resilient that most would suggest, so if DIY, and you're compliant with the manufacturers installation guidelines (for any unforeseen warranty claims) then you'll be fine. I would look for a bonding agent which is designed for this type of application, Sika stuff is great btw, just make sure it is for this exact task and don't be shy with it!

How time flies!! For free tickets visit https://www.nsbrc.co.uk/

Yup. One of those.

PHPP is probably OTT for you, and typically reserved for identifying overheating risks in a passive (or thereabouts) new build. You may simply wish to explore A/C for the attic and maybe some bedrooms (up to 4 units can run off one external unit) as these offer both heat and cool with great CoP (cheap running costs for a lot of comfort). This strategy will allow you to blanket the heat from UFH, whilst maintaining individual temps in the rooms that matter the most (cool bedrooms at night in a stinking hot summer are simply ‘bliss’).

What I proposed to do for one client, where there was a pair of heat pumps; one for house and one for the swimming pool. Didn’t need them in the end, as the pool temp was pretty much kept at a constant (indoor pool within its own airtight envelope, and a near passive residence). If this is all designed properly before laying a single ‘brick’ then the heat pumps can be almost inaudible. Client could hear a neighbour’s combi boiler flue 30m away over the house heat pump when it was -6°C outside, with us standing next to the HP. Pool one was timed strategically, and would only boost at very early morning on cheap rate or midday off peak PV excess. Design, design, design. As this thread mentions a retrofit into a refurbished dwelling, then the question needs to be, what target is the AT score going to be, how well insulated, and how good (efficient) an MVHR system is going in. Refurbs are a pita to get up to a high standard, and this needs serious consideration.

I've done (specified and then installed via subbies) a number of 3ph CU's in domestic residences, and "safety" as a reason 'not' to do this is just nonsense tbh. Also, you'll need the PV to be on the 3ph so it can deliver to the EV charging, if going on diversion controls; My Energy do the eddi but it's a part of a My Energy family of products so you can go for their Zappi LINK EV charger (1ph and 3ph 'rapid') which allows them to communicate, but also now they do the Libbi LINK battery setup too, so the lot will talk and you can optimise this end of things far better than cobbling together different bits of kit that all speak different languages..... May be a good idea to ring My Energy and run this by them, at least for another yardstick on price vs advice, if nothing else.

Random 'living room bedroom' should have the door opening into the entrance hallway, not into the living space, IMO. Would free up more furniture plans. Why don't you slide that bedroom over, and have the entrance hallway between that bedroom and the kitchen?

Welcome aboard folks, just scan the forums and ask questions in the right sections please, and the answers will flow by the bucketload. Ask away!!

Yup, agree with much of the above. Alarm bells are, in a nutshell, their utter shite level of courtesy to you in giving no proper explanation for any of their recommendations, ergo you're here sense-checking them. Yes it's a good idea to get some feedback here, but not a complete overarching breakdown, demonstrating how poor a service they are giving you. Double-glazing style, fly-by-night crew, afaic. If you have told them the house will be 1ph (will it defo be this?) then there is only a max and not a min before you need to approach the DNO for permission to install >3.68kW export capability, (iirc). The reference to there being a minimum size of 6kW is total bollocks, you can fit 1x 300w panel with a micro-inverter on the back of it if you wanted to. Why do you have 3ph if you're not using it? Do you have a 3ph meter installed? If you do, then you can max out your solar and install a 3ph inverter, but you'll need a 3ph 'CU1' to accept the inverter, with a 1ph breaker in it to feed the 1ph CU, and then a 1ph 'CU2' for the house Having a full 3ph setup (including a 3ph CU) means you can install 3 lots of the allowed 3.68kW, so you can max out at ~11kW before needing permission, but doesn't mean you won't get permission and could fit even more, it would just need to be justified. What size house? What expected demand for electricity do you anticipate (your consumption)?

Another thing with GSHP's with anything other than a borehole, you can't do cooling as they cook the ground and it shrinks away from the loop (so when you need heating the ground loop is less (very much) effective). Cooling needs a bit of human influence, prediction, and planning in its execution imo. Just having it working away in the background, in anticipation, is a better strategy than just 'switching it on' as the damage is usually then already done (house has become uncomfortably warm / hot) and then there is a huge amount of energy to shift. These types of heat / cool arrangements don't react anywhere near as quickly as A2A (air to air) A/C can, so beware making uniformed choices which then are integrated into the fabric of the build and then cannot be altered / changed retrospectively without huge costs and disruption etc. Fan coils are noisy, but so is A/C, so decide which services your home best; if you already have an ASHP for heating (that can cool) then use that + "cold" UFH + fan coils in that ascending order to do the same job. A full PHPP analysis should show you what your overheating risk is (as a %), and this should be known, understood and investigated, before designing / specifying diddly-squat! "Fail to prepare...."

@Strak I removed the borehole survey link as it shows personal info that scammers may abuse. Please add a picture of the survey with details anonymised if you can / want to.

Says who? Done cooling on the majority of my client new build projects, and all have been certified without question. Even with the RHI you could cool as long as you had a heat meter installed so it could be 'calculated'.

Chicken wire is nonsense, tell them to use an appropriate product. This makes me think they're shoddy installers TBH. Also, why on-roof and not in-roof? Is this a retro-fit over an already installed roof, and if so, what is the roof covered in (tiles / slates?).

The eddi is a great bit of kit, and I would defo use it for diverting excess (once you have established you will have a lot of excess that is ) vs using the ASHP. Pockets of excess are simply too sporadic for this to be a wise choice IMHO. If you can afford the additional panels then go for it, as the economics usually favour it, plus your payback / RoI should be better / shorter too. The addition of batteries throws the question of diversion control into a numbers game, as it may be the case that all your batteries get sucked dry at night and fully recharged during the day so you'll not have any of the usual "excess" to bother with the cost of the eddi, plus the immersion can just be timed to coincide with midday peak generation too, meaning you just use what the panels are producing or what the batteries have stored within your 4 walls, before then considering exporting it at all. A lot of questions here, like do you work from home, is it a south facing array or E/W split, ands a bunch more tbh.....

Thanks for this. Saved a few people a lot of typing. +1.

Just hoover it is there’s been some time for dust / shite to settle, and butter the floor in all directions before sticking the tile down. You’ll see the adhesive doesn’t quite want to stick at first, but then it will as you work it in. Put effort into this, and tell Aunt Fanny I said hi 👋.

No need for primer mate. 👍

Get cracking before someone else grabs it. Also, make an offer of £55 first

If DeWalt… https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156176452021?itmmeta=01HW03AAJKA4SQK45Y5RY3M6Y5&hash=item245cd789b5:g:oQAAAOSw4NRmJOds&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8F2%2FvAmv0a6y1j6oH%2FHZ5IW034bLCVEwmrED5QrrCrDodOCvu79j20m%2BM0RUNC60NHKOGHH6azqYN2fqWOjx1OhwA3vh8RKpjSMvXie4AN3QXYaaxH7e9lKltlo0fcmXGG08YRbSHsUZi%2BCC1SXq24sKdzBqZLtJNnJKBU8Y%2FH6eYV13F82EyfcyPZpj9VrL5OBMIPkWIqunX4ir7RnOy3laNbL%2FtisLojE0XmQtI4ZtvkET08t50biU9ygIAJwh1rttJwHt9FxlL5X6fUvhUXeATfOghCEdrApbIWxJfTC3dj80vXFuOAr3iyd%2BFJH4Rg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8apqYPgYw

Go for a naked tool that is compatible with the batteries and charger you already have? I bought a used Makita off eBay and it’s had an absolute beating over the last 5 years. Still going strong, just a bit noisier as it’s not as ‘tight’ due to wear & tear, but with what I’ve done to it I’d be happy to buy one once every 12-18 months as it’s earned its money hundreds of times over.

Could be the pump on the way out, or a pipe which has become blocked over time.

1,000,000%, defo use tile adhesive.