Nickfromwales

Apex would go up with roof timbers to ridge and back down again, profiled to be within the same footprint as the timber.

You’ll have to introduce a steel under one of those upper walls then so you can transfer the ridge down? Or do a steel apex?

Squirt some EBT or mastic onto the frame so the plasterboard is bonded tight to the metal. If you’ve installed it spot on then run a spirit level across and slowly move it down the wood work to identity if there are voids between the level and the frame. That’s where you’d want to put a continuous line of goop. When you crank the pan fixings up there’s a LOT of force back onto the tiles and plasterboard where the lower edge of the pan meets it, so think logically of what could move under the weight of you dropping off U571 and make sure there’s no gaps

You can use them in quite adverse conditions, but where there’s excess heave you sometimes have to pile and tie the ring and intermediate beams into those. Very difficult to say much on here tbh, as it’s the SE’s call and also hangs on what the findings of the soil survey were.

Yes, ask lots of questions as there’s a bunch of very knowledgeable people on here in fairness. WB and Vaillant I’m assuming won’t have the ultra low modulation rates that I require for my clients projects, so please don’t compare my investigations with your thread, no relevance there.

Hi. Block and beam can be done well, but you’ll need to get the architect to set levels out to allow 150mm PIR insulation and (ideally) a 100mm slab atop; in the slab sits your anti crack 142 mesh and your UFH pipes zip tie to that. That would get you to ‘top of concrete’ (TOC) level, so then your chosen floor covering goes straight onto that, and then that’s your finish floor level (FFL). Insulated raft foundations are typically seen to be the best choice, as B&B will be cold ventilated so Baltic under there during winter, whereas a raft (or strip and infill slabs) will not have the cold under them eg way better imho.

@Vesa Have a good read here. Ignore the title and scan through until you see that chat go towards airtightness etc. 👍

Hi and welcome. Try to get that airtightness score down and DO NOT assume that plaster-boarding will help out a huge amount.

PDHW = priority domestic hot water DHW = domestic hot water If you’re going to have a new cylinder then you just need to install a “system boiler” which replaces your current boiler and will just drop right in with minimal disruption. Assuming a typo on PvP and should read PV, so yes, that’s compatible when the time comes but you’ll need to ask the PV installers to fit a hot water diversion controller (such as an Eddi from MyEnergy) for that to feed to the immersion in the new cylinder. Make sure the boiler installer flushes the system and fits a magnetic filter so none of the cr4p in the existing pipework and rads gets into the new boiler. Ask for new thermostatic radiator valves to be fitted throughout, but not on any rads you intend to replace / upgrade eventually. Currently looking at the market offerings for gas boilers so I’ll check out Atag, Intergas, Veissmann first, then WBosch and Vaillant I guess. First one will be a combi, so time to go back to the school of gas and see what’s what! 🙃

Best to clarify, that zero VAT is available regardless of who supplies and fits what, where applicable, but you have to pay and reclaim (after completion) if you buy anything yourself and pay a labour cost to install. Ok if you’re cash rich, but can be a drain on funds if adding 20% over and over again….

It's under the flush water outlet, but if you fit it into the wrong tab you're then off vertical. You'll see it, but may be dependant on the frame so take with el-pincho-da-salta.

Hi and welcome, but buyer beware! Most in this situation will build as quickly and cheaply as possible to maximise profitability, leaving you with a big hole in your wallet and a less-than-admirable build, perhaps. Look into turnkey build contractors, ones that do foundation and structure in one contract; MBC timber frame are one such supplier but do your research, and ask a gazillion questions here, before signing on any dotted lines

35 years ago I walked for 40 mins in the rain, after dark, to knock my mates door to see if he wanted to come out, only to be told by his mother that he's done the same thing with a different mate, so I'd guess which one and keep walking. I'd have killed to be able to send a text lol, and asking to use the house phone got the death stare. You're having tech anyways, so.....why buy 'OK' for £200 when 'shit-hot' is another £100? (in the grand scheme of course!). Time flies and tech gets old quick, but I bet your car has got ABS You could live without a mobile and without WiFi.

WiFi 7 is the bomb. I just moved people into a new build and the WiFi is crazy good. >300m2 L shaped house and only 2 WAP's (Ubiquiti) and great results tbh. Will be changing my 6's to 7's asap, night and day different imho.

Yup, great stuff. Happy days.

Dangerously close to cross dressing lol. But yea, just on the ends and one side where the prevailing weather hits it hard. Will make a big difference as otherwise it blows a hoolie through a ‘van.

Dry lay over the dilute prime is fine, prime neat as you go, per m2, is what I always do. If the MIs tell you to prime 2 layers and leave to dry before tiling then follow those instructions. Then have a sponge with a 50/50 primer water mix on a damp sponge to spot clean each m2 as you lay the adhesive.

The trays from GSE and Easy roof are all lagging well behind vs the panel manufacturers. Just a great example of the left and right hands not being from the same body!

Good darts! Some may say "a feature". Bloody good forum is this.

A very light gauge membrane will be necessary unless you go for a dry (aka traditional) screed. The perimeter expansion skirting that you put around the room will come with a similar gauge membrane attached that drops down and the you tape the two together. Depends on the slab and how many breaks there are. If none you can do what I did for the job with the pics above and just tape the expansion skirting membrane to the screed, and then no membrane is needed for the main areas. The volumizer is usually only necessary when the heat circuit is short or the rate at which the energy can be consumed is low, so if the rads are always on an running whenever UFH is on you could possibly get away with it, but when designing a system you MUST always specify it for the absolute worst case scenario so it can cope (and comply with the boiler MI's which will ask you to connect the appliance to a system that compliments it sympathetically, eg removes the possibility of it ever routinely short-cycling).

It does diddly squat really, but I fit them and then drill down through the wood with a 3mm drill bit, into the far left and far right ends, and fit 50x 5.0 woodscrews in to give me timber > metal fixing points. The point load rating you should be looking for is based on 80 stone of (impact) bodyweight iirc, eg someone falling / stumbling backwards and landing on the pan; possibly to compensate for the varying size and shape of the general population and encompasses some headroom for someone who likes a pie or two (or seven) 'coming in for landing' at too high a rate of knots. I take the cisterns out, clips are quick-release both sides, use a wood chisel or similar. Then I drill a few holes through the steel frame, more to the top to counter where all the loads are most problematic, and the screw from the inside of the frame to the side timbers; I fortify this with some no nails or CT1, whichever is in the gun. Is that a bit OTT, prob, have I ever had someone come back and say it moved, never; and I've fitted LOADS of them.

In the winter make a skirt for it, as these things are bloody baltic cold in the winter unless you've got gas CH and it's on constant. Stayed in one massive one on hols, not in winter, with oil filled radiators.....and wife was paranoid the gas fire would kill us all in our sleep so that was only in use when we were conscious. NEVER EVER AGAIN.

I'd get a pump matched to the OEM and speak to technical to see if they can share the same PWM feed cable. If not, then you'll need a dumb-ish pump that is somehow hydraulically separated from the OEM unit, prob achievable by a small low loss header. LINK

If you use 2 runs of steel and 3 timbers you may be able to reduce the profile. @Gus Potter?