Nickfromwales

Try asking the window supplier, I reckon they get this problem a lot and may have a solution.....which is a solution.... See what I did there?

Phew. I saw the title and thought @Pocster was going back on the naughty step....lol

Oh, and Hi, and welcome, by the way lol

Can it not simply remain and be considered a dysfunctional part of the makeup, and you do as you suggest with the roof 'growing'? 175mm PIR is a decent spec. Is the rest of the building being upgraded to reflect this? You say airtight barrier, is the entire conversion to adopt airtightness to a specific value?

Have you run this past a planning 'officer' to firstly ensure the change would not be contested? My mates house is an old grocers shop that he and his wife ran for years in an area of greenbelt and away from supermarkets etc. When there was a selection of reasonably close supermarkets his clietele started to go there and not to him. He and his wife said let's close the shop and convert to a nice big family home, the locals went berserk. They claimed he should not be able to deprive them of this essential local amenity. He attended the local meeting and said, if you lot didn't go to Tesco I'd still have a business, so you've fallen on your own sword, sorry. PP went in his favour, but just food for thought. Estate agents look from their angle, eg can they make money from you. Planners will say "yes or no" to the viability. Talk to the right people

Just either quote selection, or for specific parts of a post, just highlight a sentence etc and the quote box will pop up, then click on it. If you make a hash of it before posting, don't worry, just refresh the page and click back on the comment box, your hash will reappear, then you just select 'clear editor' and you can have another go. Also for tagging members, just type the @ symbol followed by the first couple of characters of the username and there will be a drop down list, choose the one you want and click on it

...he says, scratching his chin with his remaining 3 fingers

Not drinking? Well, ok, but that's a different website for that I'm afraid!

Yes, sir!

Yes, sorry, just been a long day and clarifying. A plumber setting the towel rads to run with UFH simultaneously isn't that bad an idea. I do recommend that if there's a small UFH system or just one room of UFH with a couple of loops. Not connecting the grey wire is just bloody stupid though!

Then use with any wood

If you have / can hire a 'rebating' planer, then you just set that to take a 2mm pass down the back side, eg with the plane set up with the guide so that the blade doesn't take anything off the thin edge of the architrave.

Is this the case if the boiler is already lit and burning to heat any rads? Eg the already heated (hot) water in the primary pipework isn't getting to the mixing valve and manifold loops?

👌👍

+1. Been on a few in-roof installs and I was surprised at just how quickly it all went in, vs a re-roof job I did ages ago where we had to take an on-roof system off and then reattach it afterwards. What a PITA that was. Pigeons nested behind most of the peripheral panels to a bit of ethical uncomfortableness too factor in, so the further ugly / also PITA of fitting vermin skirting is another thing I’d want to avoid at all costs. In-roof, every damn day of the week. Choose a very good quality panel, with a warranty tied to the manufacturer vs one that you’d need the installer for. Lots of people lost their cover when the FIT ended and around 5000 MCS registered companies disappeared…..

@Ann D Mann The responses here are constructive criticism, just honest opinions shared here as you’ve asked the question(s). “Waste not” is fine, every single person on here is of exactly the same mindset, but you wouldn’t spend £1 to earn 30p would you? The shear cost and complexity, upheaval, maintenance for life, and inconvenience of burning wood routinely to then have this make ANY kind of sense, makes no sense at all. The money you’ll put into this, just put that into a glass jar and label it “GAS” and spend the money more wisely. When the WBS is lit, try and maximise the benefit by opening doors up and using the convection fans to get heat shifted about the property. I'm a fan of crazy ideas, but not when the cost outweighs the benefit.

I still get amazed that a self build mortgage company would not ask for a full Bill Of Quantities for this level of lending, given how costs always seem to spiral with zero leverage in the clients corner. Ironically the BOQ serves to protect me more than the client, as when a client says "I was supposed to have oak skirting", I can just point at the detailed contract and say "not on this you didn't" and the argument is over before it begins. Such blissful simplicity, but you would have to shoulder the cost of the BOQ being produced, not the builder. Essentially the BOQ would go on to be the backbone of the contract.

Yes, if they left you with leaking plumbing!! You have no worries regarding pipes cracking / breaking down / rusting / corroding, tbh, as the materials used are for just this very thing eg to be wet The blue MDPE is bombproof, and copper pipe will outlive us both.

The level of ambiguity in such a 'contract' makes it as worthwhile as if it were Andrex..... just "NO". You need line by line, a name or type of product with at the worst a PC sum for it, and from there you need to be privy to options before the orders placed. For one example, the builder will have asked his plumber for ASHP (etc) costs, so ask to see the breakdown of that; explain you do not need to see their costs to the builder as we both know there will be a minimum of 10-20% applied by the builder as the coordinator / contractor, possibly as much as 30% if it is a small project, but that you just want to see the detailed breakdown of what equipment you will get, simples. This prevents you paying Vaillant / Mitsubishi prices and then getting some Chinese shit-box installed that won't last 5 years. You need to sit this chap down, make him a brew, and state your case. He will a) agree and buck up his ideas, or b) smile and nod, and you'll never hear from him again. Best to find this out the easy and cheap way, right now.

+1. Just massively complex and not the best idea tbh. Sorry! I very much doubt the coil in the buffer would be able to convey the huge amount of heat energy to the secondary body of water travelling to the heating system. With this design I expect the WBS would kettle as it wouldn't be able to rid itself of the heat, linear to it being produced. At the end of the day the WBS needs to be a reasonably 'roaring' fire to effectively (cleanly) burn, so I just don't think you can shift the heat from A > B > C like the above suggests. You can use a very big thermal store, but the bigger the store the more water you must keep hot to produce DHW via a coil or PHE....which would be hugely wasteful all summer, and the TS would be a massive roasting hot 'radiator' to have heat leaking from into an already warm house. I'd say you would have to have the stove > TS > space heating, with that all used in winter, and then with a UVC for use 365 days a year either fed from wood or gas. In the summer the entirety of the space heating kit would be redundant and you'd be gas > UVC for DHW only. Send the boiler back, get a refund, and just enjoy the heat from the WBS, as the moment you really start relying on it for bolstering space heating you'll see the insane amount of wood you'll then need to keep feeding into it. Worse then would be to ever have to buy wood to burn to let this carry on being of use. You'd soon get lazy and just flick the gas boiler on methinks, I know I would .

Either that or the PRedV is 'letting by'? If that's what you get daytime, network can peak at the early hours too, so I'd also consider a strip / clean / inspection of the PRedV on the control group. Defo start at the EV, as these things don't last forever and you've had a bloody good run out of it, just odd to not be getting water on the secondary side of the bladder. I assume you'll mothball this while away and turn the stopcock off until your return?

Happy days. No problem at all, I've done more of these than I can remember. The only thing you'll need (want) to do is chat through the clamping and screwing of the flue components, as I have seen a terrifying number of vertical flues where they've not mechanically fixed the entire flue system and you could literally just lift it off the boiler. Also discuss all of the flue components being suitable, as there are horizontal flue and vertical flue options, and some parts cannot be used if it's a vertical; again I've seen loads of installs where we've then declared them as 'immediately dangerous' and have advised on getting it done properly (never goes down very well, but I am not the kind of person who would knowingly look the other way). Ask questions, choose well, enjoy the benefits

Yup, there's a sea of assholes who survive on people just handing over the money. I think you need to eliminate the ridge, as it needs doing anyway, and then review once that has been completed.

If carpeted you can run just inside the grippers, router out at the doorways (worst case). I’d have that done in a day with very little fuss / mess tbh. Kind of job that sounds worse than it is, and one people spend too much time worrying about vs just doing it, and the reality is maybe 2 days disruption including chasing and filling the walls ready to repaint. Hopefully it was your missis who wanted the room swapped around lol. 🤞😜