Nickfromwales

I spoke to a rep(?) at AB about a woodcrete ICF job for a member on here and they say it’s just done on m2 vs the substrate so it should matter with block tbh. They just asked that you prep it as well as possible, carry out 1st fix, and they state that they will then make a ‘good’ job ‘great’.

I’m lazy, what can I say lol? 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Wouldn't that have to be from a 'synthetic' metronome that they all listen to?

It's nuts tbh, we're in chuffing 2025 and they can't keep the lights on!?!

I've not got any direct experience with Victron, but unless you have optimisers you cannot find a dead panel without checking each one. We've installed systems with optimisers (Tigo) for yonks without any issues whatsoever, quite the opposite tbh.

Well, the spinny round bits are certainly not sat still! lol. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Have a look at the Aerobarrier system. https://www.aerobarrieruk.co.uk/ Cheaper and better than you think. They say if you just foam the windows and cut it flush they can take over from there. Speak to them and get a quote / do the maths, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Certainly an option, and a 1 day sitting and they're done.

Just fit optimisers if you want to be able to narrow down finding a duff panel. Or fit panels that simply live, nearly, forever. 🇩🇪

Reverse / inverted / snail, all called different things by different folk, just where the pipe isn't serpentine; eg it's not just simple up / down / up / down runs with 180o loops at each end. This is easy to implement when pipes are at 150-200mm oc, but at 100mm it's nigh-on impossible to do anything other than inverted.

Mine is the truth and the light….. etc etc But some horses do refuse to drink lol. 🤷‍♂️🙃

We’re just filling our boots, no need to ‘go there’ . You must go the distance with your SE, obvs, but if there’s any threat of an earthquake I’m coming to stay with you 🙂

I’ll read that to the kids before bedtime. They’ll be confused but fascinated lol. 👌 👆👉💪😊

Especially when the ring and intermediate beams are doing the majority of the work. 175mm is over egged for a domestic residence as the slabs then distribute weight over the area so benefits become nigh on inconsequential over 100mm imho. 280mm for a previous job, and then the guy wanted to put UFH on top in a screed FFS. In a 1.5 story house!! I challenged, with reason, and they reduced to 230mm(!!) iirc, but agreed also to then lift the slab, inset the UFH pipes, and feck the screed off. Saved the client 5 figures in 2 sentences. And I was late to the meeting lol.

Indeed. There’s just not enough difference to go and beat the crap out of a tiny HP. Then it’s far more justifiable for a small HP. If you steer away from this then seriously consider a 5kW HP to get headroom for DHW production.

Unvented hot water cylinder.

Odd, but not a life changing issue. The only reason to wrap this pipe is if your intended concrete work is going to come into contact with it, or encapsulate it.

I’d install a bigger UVC and plan a cheeky 2-3hr hour top up via the immersion heater(s), timing this to happen for the last 2 hour window of cheap rate nighttime juice, a-la Octopus, so you’ve got a good supply of DHW for the morning shower runs etc. This would be a winter strategy btw, but assuming solar and a base temp assumed at 50-55°C when heated off the HP, then having higher capacity can only be a benefit here as you’ll have more energy stored in the same size cylinder when heating via the immersion. Add PV and topping up the DHW at midday for the evening (at a time where an hour or two of HP > DHW won’t effect anything / anyone, this is win win. I’d try to keep the HP away from doing DHW overnight, ever, during winter, especially with such a lack of headroom with a 3.5kW unit. When you do the sums and include defrost and the expedited demise of the HP it makes more sense to use cheap electricity directly (near 100% efficiency) via the immersion when running the HP just doesn’t make sense.

Anti convection loop would have to go between the UVC and the manifold. But it doesn’t matter because you’re not going to install one……..😉🤝

Not that I ever throw any spanner’s into any works…… ……actually I’d think this through before making a bad choice . In that pic you’ll see I’ve provoked (intentionally) this exact thing to happen, as with the last setup I did, and it’s how I will plumb the next, and the next. Short lived will be your cunning and planned celebrations of the joys of foreseeing this ‘terrible loss of heat’, and the use of 10mm pipe to get your DHW swifter than a swift flying during a hurricane, as it’ll go tits up the second you do your anti-gravity / convention loop. All the wasted (and useless) water volume held in that plus the fact it’ll either be 28 or 22mm pipe, will instantly negate all this as you’ll prob have longer to wait than if you’d run the feeds in 15mm. By the time you get the dead leg out of the primary larger bore pipework and then premium (useful temp) DHW out of the average outlet you’ll be sadder than Mr.Bean when he lost his teddy bear as you will then realise it was the wrong choice to set it up this way. The ACTUAL annual costs (perceived savings of stopping heat wicking up the pipework) would need to include the wasted cold mains water that you then draw off as useless dead leg, then you’re very much into the price of a decent meal for 2, in ACTUAL reality. Then factor in that this primary DHW pipework will be well insulated plus the sobering reality that this aforementioned ‘runaway convection’ just won’t happen, (as you refer to with the open pipe / vent of yesteryear (which is entirely misleading and utterly irrelevant here btw!)), and then you place a cherry on top. The cherry is, that with the large bore primary pipework already preheated by (local) heat wicking up it from the UVC, this then cancels out the delays caused by lengthening the pipework between the UVC and the hot manifold; viola! The result you want from this is for the pipework from the UVC to the hot manifold, AND the hot manifold itself to be warm / hot as the default; insulated to stop latent losses as best as is practicable. THEN, my dear Watson, your plan of using the 10mm feeds will be one of genius, but more importantly will then actually bear some fruit. Convection (runaway) can’t happened here as there needs to be an unobstructed path from hot > cold to create a convection loop, as your taps / outlets will be closed, the case for this is closed. Use this ‘problem’ to your advantage squire .

@Egnaro If it’s Terram / weed barrier it’s in an odd place but should be inconsequential in terms of what you’re doing. Weed barrier is usually to do exactly that when landscaping, eg stop organics from growing. Somebody may have put this over the pipe as a marker, just a bit odd due to how close it is to the pipe. If it’s all backfilled with concrete then you’ll get the same effect, but you should wrap the pipe of concrete will be meeting / encompassing it, to allow movement.

😉👌

That’s absolutely shite. You may be better off, if you’re otherwise happy with the stove install, getting another independent roofer out to just do this properly. Completely pointless getting this wally back as he clearly just cannot do roof work, and the risk is he’ll make it worse and then disappear / stop responding anyways. The second attempt is worse than the first.

Then don’t fit a thin laminate as it’ll likely be dogshit and won’t go the distance. Everywhere where I’ve seen cheap laminate the corners have come away, where they have already started their death roll by the boxes being moved and edges bumped which fractures the laminate, or they start to show their age early in high traffic areas. Consider ribbons or other thresholds so a room can be ‘fixed’ without pulling up other areas to facilitate this.

Cant see why not. You’ll not be running at very high temps down there?

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