Nickfromwales

If I had the chance UFH would be 100% going in my garage / place to hide away and tinker. Defo on the hitlist if I ever build, eventually, maybe, possibly.

My wife says different lol.

Never bet beer, because if you do, in 25 minutes time, you’ll have a string of pics of me, laying on my back, changing the diverter valve by touch alone. And yes. We’re saying the same thing. I am a fan of putting all that stuff up in the attic though, if it means life can become more practical below it. Not an A for efficiency, but some are happy to trade that for living space, which I’d take every day of the week.

erm.................?

What’s the immersion set temp?

Zimlet are popular, and tbh most mainstream names prob just stick their mark on these anyways. Once you sort the expansion, I’d say just double it, you’ll be able to fit the same T&PRV (Reliance is industry standard) and the issue will go away.

Boiler is fine up there, as long as all pipework lagged and a frost stat is installed (or OEM). It’s better inside the heated envelope, all of this is, but if you want/need space and are happy to compromise then “up it goes”. A fixed ladder, fixed flooring and lighting is required for access and maintenance etc.

The other thing to remember is, that if air can’t travel through this ‘room’ then the door can just be insulated and ‘draught-proof’ as best as you can get, with no need for it to be airtight (nor will you find one). You’ll find that you can just use a small fan heater which will keep it super comfortable; my less than excellently draught proofed man-shed is fine without any insulation, with 2x 1kw fan heaters if one won’t cut it, but this will be bucketloads better. Just have a draught excluder type doo-dah on the bottom of the door, and have that seal to the ground as best as you can.

👆👌

If it’s them that invoiced, then it’s them you will form the claim against. Their insurers will investigate, and then pursue the 3rd party subby to recover the losses from their insurers. They are the ones who took the money, so they are the ones responsible, entirely. Tossers. Time to get a claim together, and speak to your own insurers to see how to proceed.

That decision is yours

One big one obvs if you have space.

I’d double the amount of volume, by adding to it with a second vessel plumbed in in parallel. That’ll give you ample headroom for immersion higher temp top ups, as tbh you don’t want to lose out on those really. TBH x2, I’d just install 2 new matching units and draw a line under it, in case the existing has become fractured.

Give it a dozen cracks open, and slammed shut. See if that clears any debris which is what is usually the issue. Give that a whizz and report back. Immersion very likely the culprit, or not enough expansion volume. Do you have an HRC circuit on the DHW?

Parapet looks better than an upstand?! And far more robust for directing runoff, also hides the slope. Is this really a bank breaker? Not a lot of insulation here, and if I was going to pay to install poor insulation or the same labour / time to fit much better insulation…..🤔

I’m on my way.

Just install a 22mm gate valve across the flow and return for these rads and open it 1 revolution, test, and then go 1/4 revolution open and test again until happy.

Sorry to interrupt. Where do I go to collect my pie, exactly?

If anyone wants the details of a fantastic mobile fab / welder who travels nationwide, pm me. Been a great few days with this chap and he’s proper old school (let’s get it done) with 35+ years on the stick.

Defo 120x 50mm steel box section uprights into a 5” ‘stud’ wall, with same for header and footer, if you want longer treads and for it to be bombproof. Glulam or 3” trimmer for head of stairs can be swapped out for a steel, if it isn’t already spec’d in steel for eg, to allow this to all be welded / mechanically connected so the best result of all. We’ve had an excellent steel fabricator and welder on site this week sorting a knackered roof out, and the results are fantastic and quite cheap for what you get. Day rates for a welder vs chippy aren’t wildly far apart (max £100 a day difference) and they get a lot done quite quickly by getting stuff cut and made up off site, then it’s just install / clamp / weld / bingo bango. Steel is not super expensive, so worth finding out what it would cost to do this in metal afaic, and then know you never need to worry / revisit ever again. Steel opens up an entire new world of possibilities, where’s other materials such as wood have huge limitations; a lot of wood finished stairs need metal spines anyways.

Not if you're a carpenter. Point being, any element of this budget self-build can be a cost saving.....if you don't work 9-5 and are a competent multi-disciplinary DIY'er. If not, I just cannot see this being a sensible pursuit. Prepare yourself to begin this journey, and to then have to borrow funds to complete. FYI, that's not me being a negative dick, it's my honest reply after 30+ years of building stuff for people..

Not sure I’ve had that issue, but maybe we have and just nobody’s highlighted it or was bothered by it. I guess try it with the connection removed and with the discharge hose down to the bottom of the trap, so the end is submerged, and give it a test drive.

…erm? Beside managing humidity, providing fresh tempered air to all habitable spaces, and recovering heat that’s normally lost to the clouds.

Nah. Gave up on the ground bearing option and it’s on stilts, and uninsulated as I knew it was on ‘borrowed time’. Outbuilding no.2 will be done better but a couple of fan heaters makes it perfectly comfortable tbh. I just make it very draughtproof so the wind doesn’t blow through it.

Hold on to this chap with BOTH hands.