Nickfromwales

If you don't average higher than the 80, and peak at 100/110, the HRC fuses will just run close to molten and cope with peak demand. It's only if you know you will have sustained 3x100a consumption, which is huge, does this become a problem. I expect the 3x 80a would be more than ample for most things? Welding sets prob worst, and shunt resistance from compressors etc will cause spikes, but then settle down when constant. Welding is in sporadic bursts so again maybe not such a problem.

It's not that big lol. And if you set the pipework to the back of the unit you'll only lose a little bit of shelf space tbh.

https://www.straight2site.co.uk//product-page/concrete-square-bar-40-n-mm2?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21371467120&gbraid=0AAAAACnrRZI6MxgdJrFmZpUsBw3fesM2h&gclid=CjwKCAjwmenCBhA4EiwAtVjzmk_Gh5z3j5lVqm_ZM9uuHCJY7QzYfCwfTpKUMpFuGDo5eeaPYATVBhoCHBcQAvD_BwE

Kids bounce a fair bit, remember when we used to be one? 7' drop out of a tree was not enough to deter me from attempt #2, the good old days lol.

It's what we do. Sleep now, we attack at dawn.

You sir, have fine taste in la musica! "By Jove, I think he has it!". Enjoy!

Speak to one of the reps, as when I needed Ardex A35 for a quick drying screed they (Ardex rep) were super-helpful.

At this point you'd just stick with a single unit, a "combination trap".

So, where the pipe enters the unit you have your T, and then carry on up to the sink bottle trap. You use the other branch of the T to connect a WM upstand to, ensuring it is to the side of the bowl of the sink and ends as high up as is possible.

Ok. When you say would this suffice, the problem is what is going where here? The adaptor you show is supposed to go on top of the trap and connect to the waste outlet of the sink, hence you will get "the gurgle".

Won't somebody PLEASE think of the children lol Just look for the soft impact rubber matting panels that do not need maintenance and stop noggins from a-floggins.

@Pocster one for you laddo

No. Not at all.

The principal issue is having the appliance connect downstream of the sink trap. Just buy a regular 40mm compression T and insert the bit I linked to, on the horizontal pipework, immediately off the sink trap. Use the appliance hose to create your trap, as without the fall and a pipe at the bottom of the cabinet you cannot get the upstand / trap in this picture. Possibly use a waterless HepVo trap between the T and the adaptor, but something needs to stop back flow of stench from a soil stack into the appliance; if this pipework is open-ended and terminates at an external gulley then there is no 'stench' to speak of, so just the draught to deal with then.

Traps do not create a source of air intake, an air admittance valve (AAV) does that A trap captures water to use to separate the stinky air from the foul pipework from the room air; you don't want stench from the stench pipe. Air admittance is required when falling water drops like 8' for a storey of a house, at 110mm, but absolutely zero requirement for that at a WM upstand. For eg, if you have a bungalow and the invert (the distance discharged water falls from output to horizontal) is <1300mm then even for a flushing WC there is no requirement for air admittance. For this instance the water dropping 600-700mm max from the upstand will never attract a vacuum so will never need any air admittance, so the focus here should be on reducing or eliminating the noise from the water entering the upstand, and DEFO to avoid the horrid gurgling water noise created by a combination sink water arrangement. It's 2025 folks......there's a better way.

You're defo having some sort of episode....been going on for years here lol.

My vote is for............"hair didn't grow around it, so now I'm going private"

It actually depends on which one you choose, and what you actually ask them to do. I have a good chap who charges me a very nominal sum to do a BOQ to reflect a "minimal acceptable standard" and then I cut him loose. I just want the framework so I can then use it to input the clients choices and get to a design freeze, that way they can see the budget expand and contract with the different choices they make; often some have to compromise, particularly when we show them the professional fees etc and when we add in the stuff in the prelims that they quickly skirted over when first considering building a house! I think it's an essential process that each project needs, afaic, to keep a firm control on costs and for getting design freezes done early on which then allows the client to go out to tender.

Most of my clients want to touch / feel / operate the units, slide and fold the doors etc so are more hands on in this respect tbh.

High opacity paint is specifically for new plaster. The only time you'll get issues is if the plasterer has polished the plaster to a shine, and then you would be better off doing a mist coat (watered down) but for the last 15+ years or more I have gone pot > roller > wall & ceilings without issue.

Yes. I don't fit (or avoid with a passion) the multi-component dual trap combination nonsense that a lot of mid range kitchen sink suppliers offer up. Instead, that all goes in the skip and I just fit 1x or 2x McAlpine bottle traps and end of subject. Bombproof. The pipework downstream of the traps gets a T cut in down as low as is practicable, with a 50mm spur of pipe in it and then the WM upstand connects to that.

Did you mean to say 100mm of insulation? 65mm for dry screed is the minimum thickness I would use dry screed at over insulation, and we've only done thinner where it can be bonded down with a specialist primer. Have you not considered Cemfloor liquid cementitious screed?

😭

You can use some of the corkscrew type fixings tbh, but not just screws into PB ideally, but I have done it a good many times and just put a screw in every hole on a smoke head (about 7 screws) to be "safe". Only time you'll be caught out is if you're heavy handed swapping one out.