Nickfromwales

Any movement of air will help a lot, and if you can have it cross-ventilate without needing any energy (fans) and maintenance then crack on. When we fitted flues without scaffold we fitted the outer rubber ring on, pushed it to outside from in the attic, pulled it back against to seal against the weather, and then cemented it in. Just needs a slightly bigger core hole to allow the seal to squish down and be pushed through, so no need to be swinging off a ladder if you can core drill from inside to out? Brewdog Wingman is the current favoured poison.

Yup, I know…. I’d rather spend on A/C than have the house looking like a dark prison tbh. Just my preference. I may look at a 2nd hand monoblock ASHP and a large fan coil unit on the landing (that used to be the box bedroom but is now a corridor to the rear bedroom in the extension, and had the stairs to the attic in it plus all the 1st floor bedrooms lead off it. As usual, I’ll do more thinking than doing. 🤯

There’s a lot of gravity to support the lower one, but if the levels of the unfavourable don’t / won’t get up to the new level then rodding access should be enough insurance I guess.

Why not have a fan to purge the attic space in peak summer? I did this to the ‘attic’ room and it shifted a LOT of unwanted heat and humidity, but downstairs had to work much harder to balance this out. The attic is unbearable in summer, and terrible (too warm / clammy) in winter. The A/C unit dumps air from the room to atmosphere to cool the heat exchanger., so is a win win as it’s still purges humid air and any u wanted heat to the clouds. I refuse to work out what this costs to have two systems at war, but with 3 stories of house it’s just time to plug in, switch off, and get you to send me some of the fine lemon gin. Then I’ll swap it for IPA. 🍺

Yes, and there’s your problem….. “they” not “me” “They” will be certified and insured, “me”, not so. So can’t be DIY’d afaic. And your mortgage supplier.

Erm…….. the big shiny thing in the sky I think. 🤔 🌞 Decrement delay is alive and kicking here, was worse when the house was grey dash but now painted white, no major impact as this just catches early N/East morning to late morning sun, but some as this also catches very late southern sun. We’re semi-detached so S/E sun doesn’t do much but South to west sunshine really hammers us at the rear (yet to be painted white) so curtains just stay shut there. Rear extension is 9” brick without cavity, so flip-flops between turning into a microwave oven in summer and a fridge in winter. Will likely look into PIV in there this summer, or I’ll finally bite the bullet and do a single outdoor A/C unit > 3x internal units; the fear is wasting time and money on failed attempts which also reduce comfort (with excess noise). Cooling is a pita.

Technically it all looks ok, but I’d be worried about how low your new Y branch is connected and how low the new horizontal pipe run is, as the level of ‘product’ in the STP could rise and come to backfill into that new pipe and settle / block it. I’d want that as high as the existing run.

I’m going to look into this for this summer, as our place (stone walled colander) is utterly unbearable each summer. Thinking to force a lot of outdoor air in to the house early evening through to early hours. Attic ‘bedroom’ has a freestanding A/C unit which is sublime. Yup, I hear you there. For some days my kids will crash on the settees on the ground floor, as with curtains closed and all that jazz the first floor is still near unbearable for those horribly hot days. I don’t know the layout of your flat, but a decent freestanding A/C unit (large 150-180mm duct off the back which needs to be out of a window) could be placed in the kitchen and then a couple of pedestal fans could be used to blow the chilled air into the rooms off the hallway. The noise / sound from all this would then be away from the bedrooms, but would require all doors to be fully open. Cooling is way more of a ballache than heating, unfortunately, and it’s clear that the developers (yet again) had no understanding of how these units would fail to perform as habitable dwellings during summer (now part O), and I guess you’re not alone there with this issue!

Please set up a Timelapse camera so we can sit with your SE, popcorn in hand, and watch your house slowly disappear. I very much doubt you’ll be in any kind of ‘control’ here, and this method sounds crazily indiscriminate to me, but I’m no basement expert. I hope your pockets are as deep as your basement, and also that you have certification for this methodology and that your SE’s PI insurance allows them to advise you to do this; also that it would pay out if it ‘accidentally’ undermines your current homes foundations / underlaying ground. Sounds to me like a slow, risky, impractical and non passive way to do this as it’ll need huge amounts of electricity, a recirculating filtration system (which will need near constant caretaking), and your time to monitor and control. I do love a basement, but this sounds like a ‘less than good’ idea to me, sorry. Suspending it in the water so it can be exported through the pump as a slurry.

One ground mount we did was 135m away from the property, so as long as you jump the size of the SWA cable up to combat voltage drop (and export A/C not D/C) distance isn’t a show stopper. Compromises vs necessity etc.

👍

Prob best to add, that I don’t see much value in charging clients for designs, as most change their mind a good few times and then all that time / work is 💰 🔥.

That lot just appears in my brain, after a few cups of ☕️ and some in-house procrastinating, and then I just start cutting and soldering. That pic is the result. By the time someone’s done the design, I’ve usually finished the job. To answer your question, erm….”no”, sorry. 😕, but to affirm, you’d not really want it as I spec & design each job uniquely (under the well known 2019 “horses for courses” act).

Why I beam?

Defo guilty!!

You can use a one of these to knock off high points, and feathering compound to fill divots.

Time to get in touch with the local mafia, and offer a disposal service.

If I could just say a few words…… 😉🙃

Lather, rinse, repeat......I'm afraid! Constant downhill spiral of increased promises vs decreasing delivery of anything close to resembling the horseshit they promised us to get them voted in. Needs a cull and an total overhaul tbh.

Apparently @Onoff test fired the 6kw body drier, and sends his apologies.

Far left (non lollypopped?) is a 22mm feed to a 3/4” 2-port manifold, with 2x 15mm outlets, ergo the sum of the output cannot ever exceed the sum of the input, or words to that effect. When you get to the 7-way then the maths change; if you squint a bit you’ll see this gets fed from 28mm vs the 22mm used for the 2 and 3 port manifolds. Just some simple plumbers maths, nothing more. The 3-port is the hot return with 10mm pipes, so just a crawl there. You’ll notice that there’s 2x TMV’s immediately off the 28mm hot outlet of the UVC. Left one (22mm) feeds the kitchen and utility sinks @50°C, and the right one (28mm) feeds all sinks, bath, showers at 45°C. As this is Hep2o and there have been ‘issues’ with using it for hot return, I follow their guidelines and a) time the HRC so it’s not ‘on constant’, and b) temper the water in that loop so it’s not ever at the terminal temp of the UVC; that can be north of 70°C if solar PV excess or cheap rate electricity is fed into the immersion, plus the 45°C flow temp of the HRC means much lower losses too. 👌. Again, it’s down to dynamics of the particular site, but at 5 ports (and the assumption that some were basins) I’d have said it’s fine on 1x 22mm feed from one side. Bath and shower outlets seem to feed at roughly the same rate, as EU compliant and low water consumption outlets are commonplace nowadays, so no need to worry about huge flow rates to a very big bath for eg (unless you actually have one, and then the conversation would change) . Then, and then alone, I’d say have that closest to the feed end, but prob arguing over pocket change there tbh as the manifolds are 3/4” bore which is quite decent. Oh, if only you hadn’t said that bit, I could have stuck to a simple reply lol. 😌 So, for ”The science bit”…..(please manage your expectations here). Dynamic flow rates at the incoming cold mains will affect how I ultimately ’plumb things’, but I also respect my clients enough to give them a minimum expected level of GAF, so, then the ‘problem’ and the solution become more relevant (and apparent, hence what you’ve seen and the question it has provoked); at which point I will assume a responsibility to provide a solution that is engineered to yield the best possible results, for the given circumstances, as the minimum standard. For the 7-port manifold, 28mm flow is then divided at a 28mm tee (22x22x28c) into 2x 22mm feeds to each end of the 7-way (port) manifold so ‘theoretically’ 3.5 ports each get fed from 22mm feeds, a-la an electrical socket outlet in a ring main. ”Couldn’t I just feed one end of that manifold with a 28x3/4 feed?”, you may ask. Yes you could, in reality, more-so when the cold mains is much better for eg, but when the house is occupied, all rooms in use, bathrooms a-blazing’, the ‘solution’ comes into play because the setups I design / deliver can cope under duress, admirably, with one hand tied behind its back. Would someone get upset if 3 showers didn’t work simultaneously, and if they did, albeit poorly, would they accept that they could only be hot for <10 minutes each before going cool then cold? Yes, they’d be quite upset that the brand new 6 or 7-figure home they’d just spent their life savings on failed to perform when it was occasionally at capacity. It would be a bit of a ballache at the least, borderline embarrassing at the worst, have to schedule your guests bathing methinks, but there are plenty of folk out there who would say that’s “fine”….I’m not one of them obvs 🙄👎. I don’t design systems and install stuff to be “OK”, there are plenty of people churning out that level of crap, and I don’t fit a 2 person setup in a 5 bed / 3 en-suite / 1 family bathroom home; (caveat: unless I am directly told to do so and I’ve covered my arse against recourse by getting that in writing). Chinese Confucius say…”you can turn a big system down, but you can’t turn a small system up, grasshopper”. 🙏 I install stuff to suit the size and capacity of the dwelling and I don’t deviate far from that, ever, as that services nobody’s interests well; my ethos is plumb to suit the capacity of the house and the worst case, and then nobody will ever be disappointed. For the above project I also installed a 300L cold mains accumulator as the owner reported mass local development and the loss of 1bar of pressure over the last ~2 years! That’s also why all the cold mains and primary stuff is done in 28mm / 1” BSP, including the 1”/28mm large-bore flexis used to connect to the high flow water softener. And so on…. Amen.

Their website has projects & testimonials iirc. I’m really becoming a fan of this idea, as the cost of tape and the time and labour to do that, plus trying to (find and) fill the nooks and crannies is a major ballache. When you get the job done please do come back and let us know the results, warts ‘n all! 🙏

Stick to your guns.

Makes your fecking knees hurt!!!!!

Come doomsday, it’ll be the only thing that’s still working mate!