Nickfromwales

The Stiebel Eltron one we did in Leicester is accessible remotely. I was on Teams discussing a new project with the suppliers recently and whilst on there the chap supporting me for that dialled into it and did a refresh and shared his screen. This was another with buffer, mixers, and all the faff etc, single room stat and no actuators. Best SCOP it had hit (been in about 3 years now, maybe in its 4th) was just shy of 5.4. I’ll take that all day long. I’ll see if I can get a print out of it, as I want to use that to show other prospective clients, and post it here.

@vk2003 I'd suggest contacting Lightwave and ask them to support/replace/resolve, as I have had a very good experience with them so far, and a client has about 1/3 of their house running on their kit. So far I've been quite impressed tbh.

If you want a brand, then Warmup for cable/mat and a very good controller. The 3ie and 4ie (iirc) are good, with learning algorithms to predict how long it takes to get the floor to the desired temp at the desired time, so if it takes an hour to get to the temp you want at 07:00, it'll learn to switch the floor on at 06:00 etc, same for turning off (again iirc). Speak to their technical guys to get more clarity.

You can expect you left foot to be warm and the right cold. DO NOT do this! Just buy a 50w/m2 kit on a mat and do it properly plz!!!

Defo best advice. We always buy a battered upvc door off gumtree etc local to the projects and only swap that out at the very last minute. Have one here atm covered in Passive Purple, so I doubt gumtree will work to get it sold back on now lol. For the sliders @Benpointer, I usually make a plywood shoe that sits over the threshold and keeps the slider open fully, making sure that trades step on that and not the shiny new threshold with muddy boots etc. You simply lift this on/off at the start and end of each day, and make yourself sheriff of the keys so no numpty can open it and wreck it for you. You need eyes in the back of your head as you get the niceties installed, as otherwise even a simple extension lead getting wound back through an open door or window will remove the paint off the frame.

You can use one of these link and then one of these link, which will get you from 28mm copper to 32mm waste.

Respectfully, that info would have been appreciated a little earlier on in the thread…… Agreed, that changes the dynamics here.

So he needs / has individual room control, which requires no human input other than telling the stat to be no hotter or cooler than the set point. Without them the rooms (bedrooms in your stated case) would heat up or become too cool, influenced / affected by external or internal factors such as sunshine. I think in open spaces and thoroughfares it’s relatively easy to control, but in rooms that have doors which are routinely kept closed, I’m really not sold on any notion of a) doing away with FF heating, or b) having absolutely zero control over the temp of the space; other than attempting to manage temp via flow rate, which most wouldn’t be able to do, or be even slightly enamoured with the idea of doing.

Debate is good. Fill reading this can then make more of an informed decision based on the balance of the boatload of information exchanged here (BH). Plus I’m quite stubborn, so good to reflect on my own ideas when challenged, more so when it’s backed by evidence (someone’s done it, moved in, and is living with it for eg) which is gold dust.

Not really? Radiators have thermostats in each room / space, in the form of thermostatic radiator valves, meaning each space can be controlled individually as per the temp set on ‘the stat’, so that’s actually converse to your favoured methodology?

Nope. As you have movement a grout will just deteriorate and crumble away. Use a mastic as it is a dynamic not static deck.

Not my problem. Lots of odd balls out there tbf, and most would like to do something themselves with full and free rein, whilst then they’d object to others doing similar. I’ll go make another coffee whilst the world continues about its business.

Ok. In reality, all you need to do is provide a rodding point outside of the footprint of the new build / founds, so you can through-rod it. In terms of it getting blocked, any decent jetter will get in there and clean it out in an hour or less, and if its got no history of blocking I doubt there’s any real issue. If it was my job I’d get a full camera inspection / video survey done before to look for crack / roots / imperfections that may cause problems downstream and get those sorted before covering it over. In honesty / actuality, I have zero idea why you care even slightly about this. It will not / cannot affect you in any way whatsoever, other than a jetter asking permission to open your manhole to be able to jet theirs in the event of a blockage occurring. If it did block, it still wouldn’t affect you in terms of yours still functioning correctly.

Just stick an @ sign in the reply, and then the first letter of a members name you'd like to mention, and you can choose from the drop down list Other will comment when they pass through

Nice progress. Why the Aquabox? Shit water pressure/flow from the mains?

The floors with OSB, TBH, are pretty bad. I'd lay a 6mm plywood over all of these, and then you should be fine to just lay the product straight on top. You may want better acoustic control for the first floor, so consider using this (LINK) for that. It'll also take out any minor defects / bumps and lumps. For the concrete floors, I doubt you need sound insulation, just an EPS type of underlay (LINK) that you tape the joints with, and that will act as a moisture barrier. You may want to use XPS insulation (LINK) to give better thermal insulation, which will also do the job of moisture barrier, if that floor is particularly cold. This can be bought in different thicknesses, so if you can get 10mm or more down, then the more you put the warmer the floor will be / feel. The thicker stuff will also help with lumps / bumps on the concrete floor too.

Yes, just needs to be scruffed up with some 40 grit.

Maybe good if you can post a link to the exact product in mind.

Unless you piss someone off, this can be yours to do what you like with after it’s signed off. Nobody’s really going to give two hoots, as long as there’s no noise complaints or parties held there you’ll be fine. I was ‘planning’ the exact same thing, for guest stay overs. Likelihood is that my oldest would have gone in there and refused to come back out.

Go to the store and ask them to fetch these to the desk. Then see what fits into what for the solvent weld options and make your purchase Prob one place where your fingers can’t do the walking, as this needs to be right.

It’s perfectly fine, I’d much rather stay up and fight than go to sleep on this lol. One flow temp is not sympathetic to say one example job I did, a very long split level bungalow, lots of south facing glass. On the room stat one end of the open plan area I could see 22°C, and in the WNW glazed master bed it was 18.5°C which the client didn’t like. The only way to cure this was to have enough stats to shut enough actuators and allow the rooms to heat (more importantly at the SE end) to NOT heat. I like your solution for a dwelling that sympathises with it, but I don’t think it is wise to suggest it to people who’s homes may not. It’s why every single new clients project of mine ALWAYS starts with a blank bit of paper, with only their surname at the top.

Yup. I think the increase in expansion volume may aid this situation, and hopefully keep the cylinder static pressure in check; in an ideal design it should be away from the threshold it is living at, eg its obvious that this lives at/on the absolute limit of what the valve is set to react at. The fact it was copper is probably in amongst the trail here, I just assumed stainless, sorry again lol. Adding some more expansion volume is what I would do, if I was asked to sort this out away from here, so that’s what I’d advise you to do. Should put it to bed once and for all.

And it is exactly that, the uncertainty of not being able to get this wrong. It is that statement which makes me confident that I should keep doing these installs the way I do, as I cannot afford to gamble with this even 1%. Lots of self builders on here have built off design, theory on paper extensively researched, and still had got it wrong. Some have had to retrospectively install air conditioning, and more…. Doubt cannot reside in any successful design, if you’re to go and spend money on it, even more so when it’s someone else’s money eg when we advise others or work for them. All of the designs I propose are fully underwritten too, I just get the needs / wants / wishes from my clients and then transfer that into a draft spec, then get system designers (usually the people who are going to supply the kit) to underwrite and commission at the end. Works wonderfully.

If it was for one room then you could have your simple system, but when the sun goes from E > S > W the whole house changes throughout the day. Based on simple terms, you will likely need the stats and actuators for the reason stated, primarily for prevention of any spaces overheating. Depends on how much of your life you have spare, to play with this, fine tune it, and what compromise you’ll be willing to accept with the unavoidable temp changes that will happen from room to room. Yea cannae change the laws of physics, Jim.

Box off the bottoms of the eaves and have a service cavity there?