Temp

AO offered best price last time we bought a freezer. They can deliver at weekends as well. Think they also took away our old broken one but check if that matters as I can't remember for sure.

Do Building Regs require them to open? If so then restrictors are probably the way to go.

I had a receipt that had two items on, one could be reclaimed the other couldn't. I stapled it to an A4 sheet of paper with a note stating I was only reclaiming vat for the xyz item on this invoice and showed my working for the cost and vat calculation. Then I just put the cost of and calculated Vat figure on the spreadsheet. In your case I would make an intelligent guess based on the prices other companies charge for the reclaimable items or deduct an amount for the non-reclaimable.

I suspect it might be too late but... If you put the insulation above the rafters (rather than between them) it's called a "warm roof construction" and you don't need a 50mm ventilated gap. Otherwise.. a) There are ways to vent where the roof meets the wall.. OR b) You can run the rafters (or 50mm battens above the rafters) side to side so you only need vents at the sides of the conservatory.

We spent over a year in pre application advice getting no, no, no etc then hired a planning consultant who it turned out had previous involvement with our site. He had a letter from the planners to the previous owner that was very helpful. When I showed that to the planning officer they rolled over and approved more or less what we originally wanted. Three years later when I needed planning for an out building the planning officer came to so a site visit, said he liked the house and said he thought "we" (meaning the planning department) had done a good job. Sometimes you have to bite your tongue to avoid getting arrested for punching them in the face 🙂

Spoke to a tile shop and they think it was probably a coarse "sanded" grout, possibly made by Granfix which seems not to be made now. Been reading up on sanded and unsanded grout and the sanded seems to be recommended for wider grout lines which we have in those rooms with stone floor tiles. The room I've just tiled has 3mm joints so unsanded is probably going to be better there anyway. Picked up small bag of BAL Microban to try out and a test area looks OK so will go with that.

You are correct. If the floor level is high enough no need for the periscope type vents. There are straight through sleeves for air bricks.. https://www.manthorpebp.co.uk/wall-floor-ventilation/underfloor-ventilation/cavity-sleeve

The best way is to insert new deeper joists. These should rest on packing placed on walls each end. The packing should raise the new joists, 10-15mm or enough so that when they flex the don't touch the plasterboard in the middle. That reduces cracking of the ceiling below. The new joists should only be fixed to existing rafters at the ends where both are supported. The main problem with this approach is getting them into place in the loft.

Colour looks pretty good for that brick.

I believe the black ones are for low temperature use. I think you need the red high temperature type. But there is a whole lot more to it. There are rules on the separation between the flue and flammable materials such as insulation that will be in your flat roof. +1. You can DIY the job if you make a Building Control Application but sometimes the BCO asks for it to be inspected by a Hetas or Oftec engineer. If you get a Hetas or Oftec approved installer to do it they will self certify the work to Building Control for you. On Your drawing you show the flue terminating at ridge height. If it will be near the ridge I believe it must go 600mm above it. I'm not sure the picture of the stove on the tiles would comply. I believe there should be a step up of 12/15mm(?) to discourage rugs migrating too close to the stove. Eg the tiled area shouldn't be flush with the wood floor. Hard to tell from the photo if that's the case.

He clearly forgot or didn't know the void should be ventilated. Got to question what else he doesn't know or will forget.

When we built our place 15 years ago the tiler was very good and we let him get on with it. Very pleased with his work but he's gone back to the EU and I can't trace him. Where we have limestone/travertine he used a slightly rough textured/sandy grout that really suits the stone. Now looking to do another room and all the grout I've looked at in the tile shops are very smooth by comparison. The texture Im looking for is similar to that of BAL flex adhesive. Is it possible he used adhesive instead of grout or does sandy textured grout exist? Recommendations?

Because the slot is narrow you probably won't get anything in there big enough to block the drain pipe itself. Pressure washer in the slot will clear out dirt etc. You could also put put an access off to one side of the door. There channels with removable covers but I've found grit tends to cement the covers in place. You end up having to pressure wash out grit to get them back in position.

Keep plenty of spare slates and worry about it later.

There are types with screw covers for the terminals but I've not used this particular one.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/VARICART-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Transformer/dp/B07PQCW12T/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1SM01UGKXD772&keywords=24v%2Bled%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1665726309&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjMyIiwicXNhIjoiNC40NCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=24v%2Bled%2Bpower%2Bsupply%2Caps%2C621&sr=8-2-spons&th=1 Or.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transformer-Supply-Driver-Adapter-2500mA/dp/B09QLSX7XM/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.4126c873-2fc2-4af4-a461-de9124226761%3Aamzn1.sym.4126c873-2fc2-4af4-a461-de9124226761&crid=1SM01UGKXD772&cv_ct_cx=24v+led+power+supply&keywords=24v+led+power+supply&pd_rd_i=B09QLSX7XM&pd_rd_r=2199aac2-57bc-41a7-93cb-20aa88774f0e&pd_rd_w=mHhfY&pd_rd_wg=3Sase&pf_rd_p=4126c873-2fc2-4af4-a461-de9124226761&pf_rd_r=D17VH80WN2FRBCSZ6KPM&qid=1665726309&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjMyIiwicXNhIjoiNC40NCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=24v+led+power+supply%2Caps%2C621&sr=1-1-b75715df-0cbd-4312-a971-de5362256967-spons&psc=1

That type are meant to be fitted into another enclosure. I recently used a Meanwell LED power supply in an audio amplifier and it worked surprisingly well despite not being designed for that application. The one I used had a small hinged plastic cover over the mains terminals but it's not sufficient to protect consumers (only engineers that may have to debug the equipment with the lid off). Eg you shouldnt use one where ordinary people especially kids could get access without another enclosure.

+1 Ours came with a warning label stuck to the glass saying never to stand it on a hard surface such as tiles or concrete. Only takes a bit of grit to create a scratch that becomes a fracture point.

The rules say once development has started planning permission is extended indefinitely (unless there is a condition requiring completion by date). But the definition of development starting isn't well defined. Most councils accept you have started a house if you have BCO approval to dig and fill foundations, and you do that. It might be possible to do less and to mitigate the risk by getting a certificate.... Near us PP for a wind farm was granted but it couldn't be built immediately because the grid needed upgrading. What they did was built the site entrance and some meters of the access road. They then applied for a certificate of lawfulness/lawful development to confirm that they could build the wind farm in say 5 years on the grounds work had been started.

Looks like they make numerous different models. One I looked at briefly said it had "Smart battery charger design for optimized battery performance".

+1 on the planning consultant. He will probably tell you what's likely to happen.. Typically when someone complains about a development the planners will investigate to see if Planning Permission is/was required. If its not required that will be the end of it. They will write to the objector and state that fact. If they decide it is required they may feel obliged to issue a Notice of intended enforcement. If you get one of those don't panic because they may just want you file a retrospective Planning Application to regularise the situation. Hopefully the Planning Officer will tell you what he thinks when he visits. Filing a planning application stops any enforcement action until its processed. Even if Planning Permission is refused you can appeal.

My guess is they are worried about your retaining walls. Building Control Approval isn't required for a retaining wall (surprisingly) unless it supports a building or neighbours building, but Building Control have powers to intervene if its unsafe. Do they have any buildings near the boundary? If so the Party Wall Act may apply. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-and-resolving-disputes-in-relation-to-party-walls/the-party-wall-etc-act-1996-explanatory-booklet There is no penalty for not complying with the PWA but if an existing building or structure is/was damaged then not having complied might go against you if they took you to court. If there are no buildings nearby then I would take and date some photos showing they weren't there when the walls were built.

All the photos of Reliance manifolds I can find on the web show flow meters on the top flow rail and actuators on the bottom return rail. Example..

What's the inverter? Perhaps I can find a manual that gives more info on its capabilities.

That is what modern laptops and EV do.

No, about the refresh charge it actually says.. In other words the voltage should be set to whatever value (between 2.29 and 2.4V) produces a charging current of 19A (for 190Ah cells). Charging at the 10% rate used to be called a trickle charge. Theses days they give it names like a balancing charge, refresh charge, conditioning charge etc.