Temp

Perhaps I misunderstanding this but I think 600mm is about the minimum depth recommended for soil pipes. If you must be higher.. Normally you must have a large radius bend at the bottom of all stacks. Think they give you a socket at about 350mm above their invert level. How high that socket can be depends on what you want to connect to it on the ground floor. Things like showers on the ground floor mean you sometimes want to connect into the stack below floor level. If you only have a WC on the ground floor I would work down from it's outlet to see how low you need the branch into the stack for that to be.

On this type of roof the rafters "hang" from the steel so yes nails not enough. Think our SE specified steel straps joining one rafter to the other over the top of the beam.

That's a fairly normal request. We had similar in 2005. It sounds like a lot but it's not so bad if you already have a site plan. It might be possible to do it all the yourself but they may want an arboriculturist to do it.

Yes that looks similar to the Ronseal stuff. They seem to stick and sand well. I've even used them to repair damaged corners. Other fillers are so hard to sand they would normally break off in that situation.

Think I'd glue the side back on and then fix any holes. I've been using a Ronseal two part filler from Wickes recently and it seems pretty good. Think it comes in white and grey.

Presumably the loft room is being let as a bedroom?

On what grounds? Agricultural land and Agricultural barns are normally exempt until they become dwellings. Start collecting evidence from Google maps and streetview so you can prove it was a barn until some date.

Apparently BS EN 1177 standard requires 300 mm of bark or wood chip for critical fall heights up to 3 meters and in the USA they want 230mm to protect from falls of 7 feet. oh and an initial extra 25% to allow for settling!

Google rocks.. https://www.barkukonline.co.uk/collections/play-grade-surfaces?srsltid=AfmBOoqGv5CR_O96uIvH6W7C5qLGVniOzjWKG3iM-RP8oh21auQzXlVG#. I only use bark for weed control on flower beds and it does degrade and become firmer over time.

Not sure about these by they are 230V slim LED strips with built in driver.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WFC6D7H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I asked ChatGPT.. It responded.. I'm afraid I've no idea how accurate this is. The graph here... https://costmodelling.com/construction-indices ...suggests build costs have gone up about 2.5 times from 2000 to 2025. That would put the cost today at between £1500 and £2500 per sqm today which I think is about right. An awful lot depends on the complexity of the extension. There could be quite a difference between a simple two storey extension and a wrap around with lots of steel to make it open plan with the main house.

Normally the mesh is raised up on stand offs so it's in the middle of the concrete. Is that what was specified?

You can get small mains powered LED strip lights no need for drivers.

I suspect she hasn't actually formally refused it but has said she will be recommending refusal. It's not totally unheard of for a committee to approve something even if the planning officer recommends refusal. I think I would tell the planners that you cannot attend at such short notice for medical reasons and if they cannot postpone you will have no option but to appeal if the application is refused. In my day there was nothing to stop you lobbying committee members before the meeting. I suspect it might be frowned upon but you could write to committee members to let them know your case will be on the agenda and explaining why you are unable to attend. Make your case in writing. I would keep it to one page and possibly just the bullet points. Conclude by saying you hope they will be able to approve the application but if not would they be willing to propose it is moved to the following meeting to allow you to attend.

If I've understood the problem correctly your proposed ventilation/airflow runs left to right but the joists run front to back so the joists block the ventilation? Can you lift the top layer and fit say 25mm or 50mm deep counter battens at 90 degrees to the joists to allow cross ventilation left to right? Perhaps that much increased height is a problem? Failing that are the joists deep enough that they could be notched or drilled to allow cross ventilation? If none of this is possible you might need to take it down and convert it to a warm roof construction that doesnt need ventilation. This has the insulation above the joists rather than between. In practice some insulation can be between the joists if there is enough above them.

Presumably it's to show that ONLY a simple barrier is needed.

My first thought was that the span looks like it needs to be more than 3m but perhaps the photos are deceptive. I think 300 x 125mm is probably overkill for 3m but I'm not a structural engineer. I'm just going by the span tables for floor joists. Three smaller beams would be easier to lift into place. Building regs won't allow just a simple hand rail. You need vertical spindles with gaps less than 100mm to discourage kids climbing. See Approved Document K.

I thought only fuse upgrades to 80 or 100A were free?

Mark up a site plan showing existing and new trees and hard surfaces and possibly drainage to prevent rainwater run-off. You can number the main trees and add a table giving details. I would list both the latin and familiar name in the table with the approx height of new trees. Examples.. https://www.barcham.co.uk/guides-advice/how-big-are-barcham-trees Some places refer to "standard" size trees which are typically around 8ft tall. The planners usually like some notes on planting. Perhaps look at the advice sites like Barchams give and compile your own. Spacing is normally only needed for groups of plants ike a hedge... eg Mixed native hedging including x,y and z species. Whips planted in two staggered rows 400mm apart and at 350mm Intervals They also like some words on maintenance. For example you might specify rabbit spirals or fencing, watering, weeding and mulching and replacing any plants/trees that fail for the first three years. Again suppliers suggest suitable care and maintenance on their websites.

In general you shouldn't be able to fit a 100mm diameter ball through any gaps. That includes between vertical rails and open risers. However I think there is also a minimum rise of 150mm so you can't just add more steps to reduce the gap below 100mm. You will need to add some timber vertically, possibly cut from spare steps?

Be aware that it's not easy to make a profit actually building houses. Most of the profit is likely to come from getting planning permission and boosting the value of the land. We bought our plot from a builder who was selling it because he didn't think he could make any more money on it.

Perhaps use a render approved for use below DPC? I don't think all are.

Fences and plot boundaries are two different things. If you concede the boundary is where your fence he would (still) have responsibility for the retaining wall. If he wants to move it refer him to his obligations under the party wall act if any.

My concern would be different settling between the different bases leading to cracks where they meet. Not sure what others will say but id look to dig up the existing concrete and laying new with reinforcing over the whole tiled area.

Six months? I thought it had to be submitted within three months?