Temp

Anyone know if the MK 32A cooker switch still uses a neon or is it an LED now? Every where I look it says neon.

Just a reminder that labor on a new build should be zero rated for VAT to you. Not charged and reclaimed.

full demolition allow you to get the whole project zero rated for VAT

Did you ask them to quote including installation? If you did then I agree this is a bit odd. My guess is you didn't so they are just trying to up-sell you some sealant. Whoever is going to install them will have their own preferred make and method so I'd probably decline the silicone. You can buy the stuff everywhere. Does the quote have the right VAT rate... If the quote did include installation I believe the whole thing should be zero rated for VAT to you. So check if the quote includes VAT. If it does then you need to tell them its for a new house under construction and should be zero rated. Supply your planning reference number and ask them to requote. If it doesn't include installation the quote should include VAT which you reclaim when the house is finished.

Our close trees have never been a problem.

Only the BCO signed our completion certificate.

Everything emitted by an electric heater ends up as heat in the house. That includes the sound from the fan and the light from the led (well unless it escapes through a window). 300% refers to the COP of a heat pump and they can reach over 400%. Ok so technically COP and efficiency aren't the same thing but for practical purposes they are.

Interesting thread.. https://customerhelp.landregistry.gov.uk/forums/general-info-and-guidance/6ab2b443-137d-ef11-a4e6-6045bdf15e68

As I recall it's to do with covenants but if there aren't any perhaps it's not a problem for the Land Registry?

There are quite a few programs that can edit embedded data. Think some can change location data. Perhaps try something like EXIFtool? Obviously work on copies to keep the originals unmodified.

Can be an issue with the land registry if both parts are in the same name. Something about covenants not being enforceable against yourself? I forget the details.

That's good because I think if it had to be "incidental to the main house" a bathroom isn't allowed. I'm reasonably sure Part M won't apply as its ancillary to the main house not a new dwelling. If you decide to ask Building Control I would emphasise that.

Is there a planning condition requiring it to be "incidental" or "ancillary" to the main house? If so which?

What's needed is a big enough bore overflow from the butt back into the drain. No need for diverting switches.

Building Control decides if you should connect.... Approved Document Part H sets a hierarchy in requirement H3 and H4... 1. Discharge rainwater to the ground via a soakaway or infiltration system (preferred). 2. If that’s not possible, discharge to a watercourse. 3. Only if neither is feasible, discharge to a sewer (surface water first, and combined only as a last resort). So you may have to show Building Control that soakaways arent possible or don't work on the site if you want to connect The Water Company decides if you may connect, eg have a legal right of connection. Edit: I checked Southern Water as I know they have combined sewers and their Web site says.. "We have no legal powers to prevent new connections from being made to existing combined sewers." although that's not quite what you asked... See the FAQ "What is a combined sewer" https://www.southernwater.co.uk/faqs/

You could appeal the condition as unnecessary but that would probably cost more.

Tip with solvent weld is to use enough solvent. If you are mean with it then it grabs too quickly. If reasonably generous you have time to rotate the pipe to the angle you want.

It certainly sounds like his infill has caused your wall to become a retaining wall and fail. However if he's not admitting liability you would probably have to go to court to get him to remove the infill and reinstate your wall. Could be difficult to prove your case unless you have photos of his side from before he infilled. Check out the Party Wall Act. It covers a lot of things but might not help unless his foundations for the new wall are deeper than those of your house (or possibly your wall?) Some councils say Building Control Approval is needed for a retaining wall over 1.5m high. Possibly because it's considered an engineering operation? Not sure about the need for planning permission. Normally heights are measured from the highest ground next to the building so that may allow him a wall 2m on his side and unlimited on yours. If you decided to complain to the planners you would have to argue he has raised the ground level on his side so the 2m rule should apply to the original ground height. It's 1m next to a highwayrather than 2m. One site says that if "you build a retaining wall within 3.7m of a street, the Highways Act 1980 requires you to seek approval from the local authority".

I probably wouldnt use washing up liquid as it will probably stay in there. Try heating the seal in bath of hot water? You could try fitting the seal in the channel then inserting the glass. Go careful with the glass as simply standing toughened glass on tiles can cause it to shatter.

Look in the loft or drill a hole through one leaf and the insulation. You can feel when the drill hits the other leaf. If you can measure the total wall thickness it's likely (but not guaranteed) to be about 200mm less than that. eg each leaf is 100mm.

Won't make much difference. Bolts are generally made to a higher standard than threaded rod but threaded rod might work out cheaper?

Some downlights only have two springs 180 apart.

It will be a nightmare. Some self builders will have made a loss. Many will have difficulty proving the build cost. Why keep builders invoices if there was no VAT to reclaim?