Temp

If the float switch is essentially just an un powered switch with two wires I believe it should be connected to pin 7 (or 8 ) and VCC (pin 1)...

Lot depends on the land it has to cross. Is the connection in a country road or A road etc

We installed a system even though our house probably isn't very air tight. Would do so again. Not for energy saving reasons but simply for the air quality improvement it gave us. First few nights it felt like waking up in a tent.

ChatGPT suggested.. But watch out for earrings and the like disappearing into the trap.

Modern wastes typicalpy have something in the middle of the plug hole to operate the mechanism and that provides more places for hair to get caught on. A good old fashioned plug on a chain type might work better?

What do the instructions say? May not need it. I suppose you could make a slightly runny mix of flexible adhesive and use a paint roller to apply it to the bottom of the tray. Regular mix on the boards.

I think cladding with something is the way to go. Perhaps fix pressure treated battens on some sort of non rotting stand off and timber cladding. Or that artificial wood made from recycled plastic?

Check the regs on overhangs. If that's ok and the weight is ok I think it will be fine. To prevent this put a strap around them to keep them tied together. In the past I have used a strong Tesco bag for life and duct tape!

Is the wall retaining higher ground behind it?

I can sympathise. I think we applied for a line through BT who arranged for OR to do the work. BT called weekly to say their engineers were "working on it" but I could still see the wire we left at the bottom of the pole and knew it hadn't been touched. Eventually they stopped calling so I called them, only to be told it was all finished and working. The girl wouldn't accept my assertion that I could see the wire was still unconnected. So next step was to ask them to test the line, which they did and decided it was faulty. I tried to explain that it hadn't been connected but they wernt having any of it. The computer said it was all done so that was it. In the end I agreed to them sending a fault engineer which they said would cost £75 if the "fault" was in my house. I gladly agreed to that. The old boy that turned up insisted on testing the line at my master socket and wouldn't listen to me telling him I knew exactly where the "fault" was. In the end he made a few call and told someone to send a team out and we were up and running a week later. What a shower.

While the plasterboard is down I think I would fit a vapour barrier before replacing it (in addition to adding ventilation above the insulation)

Old thread alert. You cannot reclaim VAT paid in error to a contractor for labor. The contractor must zero rate it to you. If you get a quote for labor that includes VAT its best to get this corrected before accepting it. If they are reluctant then you can show them the relevant pages of the guide. If its still a problem you can try issuing them a certificate.

Are you obliged to replace your septic tank with an STP under the regulations? If you will be sharing replacement costs won't it be in your interest to Ake it easy for them?

Get a drawing from your SE. Are they really expansion joints or contraction joints to ensure cracks form where you want them? I think 20mm foam will get pushed about and ripped up when you flow concrete. May have to use a form board, pour one side, remove board of replace with foam then pour the other?

Can you "part" the hedge with ropes to make a gap so it doesn't have to be lifted so high? Even dig out some of the hedge and replace it later?

ChatGPT says a typical domestic STP weighs 150 to 500kg. Something like a telehandler should be able to lift that over a fence or hedge depending on the reach but you need someone who knows what they are doing. Can you get a telehandler close enough? perhaps rent a chain hoist at same time. An excavator might also be possible if it a very light STP but they are less capable than a telehandler when used as a crane .

It looks like you have about 6 branches each at 45 degrees off the main run down the side. I think technically you should be able to rod each of these branches but they look quite short. Will probably be OK. The BCO might want to see it pressure tested. Toolstation/Screw fix sell a simple kit with hand pump quite cheap if you need to do that. Make sure all traps have water in them for the test and any open pipes and vents are capped off.

Should be OK if imported legitimately... If a Turkish manufacturer sells you plasterboard inclusive of delivery to the UK then the place of sale for VAT is the UK. The supplier should charge you UK VAT and remit it to the UK Government. In that case you can reclaim it. If they sell it to you in Turkey and you arrange to collect it and ship it to the UK you should pay UK VAT and any import tariffs/duty etc at the border. You should also get able to reclaim that VAT (but not tariffs/duty). If you you were to buy plasterboard from a DIY shop in Turkey on holiday you would most likely pay the Turkish equivalent of VAT _and_ UK VAT and import tariffs/duty at the border. You could only reclaim the UK VAT. The key is to ensure they have a UK VAT number and you get an invoice/receipt for any UK VAT paid.

and or find some 35mm ID Stainless Steel pipe and epoxy a 22mm length into a hole to suit the OD to prevent the worktop being crushed. Whatever you decide I would paint something on the walls of the hole to stop water affecting the worktop.

Would a bore hole supply be cheaper?

How far is it from your house to the nearest water main ? Across fields or roads or ? The cost of getting the water co to install a new pipe might be high but you might be able to save a lot by either digging trenches yourself or paying a local farmer to dig them. You might have a case for misrepresentation if you can argue the sales particulars were incorrect. You might consider getting quotes from the water company and threatening court action unless the seller comes to an agreement. Then see if you can get a local farmer to dig the route for less. I've no idea how successful you might be if it actually went to court so ge prepared to settle out of court if they make an offer.

I've only done a few trays but they all recommended mortar for bedding the tray. In one case I didn't have much height to play with and used a flexible tile adhesive which seemed to work well. I always use top access traps. These have a part that goes below the tray and a top part that goes through the hole in the tray and into the part below. So you can do all the waste plumbing before bedding the tray. Typically you cut a clearance hole in the 18mm WBP that you are going to bed the tray on. It helps if the pipework allows the lower part to move, in this clearance hole, particularly vertically so that it can be pulled up through the hole against the bottom of the tray when you fit the top part. A few dry runs are needed to ensure everything is in the right place. You clean the trap from above by removing the chrome mushroom cap.

Mirroring the house and restricting parking to the right hand side seems reasonable to protect the RPA. Your dimensions suggest the house would be outside the RPA but the report implies the crown of the tree will be close to the house. I'd check if that's the case. I take it you don't want to move it back 2.6m? Perhaps compromise on 1m?

Are the bays structural? Eg does one on the ground floor support another on the first floor and part of the roof? The windows will need to be designed for that if it's the case.

Ask the supplier. It's quite possible different suppliers have different measurements requirements and tolerances.