GEO-PAR

I've got the same problem on some stonework - It's turned rock hard. The only thing I've tried so far is the combination of gently chiselling with a nail and a rough brush to get the worst off. Then clearing the excess off with water. It wasn't perfect though and will take me ages when I get around to doing the whole lot. So if you come across any products that shift it faster, please let me know!

Agreed on the pointing. It looks like a churn-brush finish in the picture — slightly open-textured, with the aggregate exposed, giving it a rougher more traditional looking finish than you’d get from trowel-pointing.

This is actually a very good idea. Part of the reason I have been reluctant to go down the balustrade route is that I have already created an upstand out of blockwork and had it all waterproofed. In order for it to be robust enough to take the 0.74kn required line load, I was thinking I'd have to rip it all out and cast an rc upstand, which I obviously don't want to do. But I think putting a steel along here could be a relatively cost effective way of getting over it. I'm going to wait for the walk on rooflight cost to come back first before making any decisions but I'm anticipating this being £10-15k, which isn't affordable.

Did anyone in this post go for it? I've heard it scratches very easily. Anyone able to reccomend for or against? I've looked at polish concrete but just isn't practical with my limited site access.

Thanks all. I'm waiting on a quote regarding a walk on glass rooflight. Hopefully it isn't too eye watering.

I have a roof terrace at the back of my new build. Next to the terrace I have a rooflight providing light into the deep plan space below. The issue I have is that I both don't want and am now unable to put a gaurdrail up along the edge (upstand is only blockwork and is not all waterproofed). However I understand from Part K this required. I am going to enquire about making the glass 'walk-on' but have a feeling it's going to massively increase the price to the point I cannot afford. Anyone experienced similar and keen to know how you got over this?

Hi guys - As a self builder currently going through this process myself, I’m just doing a little research trying to understand how people handle the VAT reclaim on a DIY self-build. For those who’ve done it: How did you keep track of receipts? Roughly how many did you end up with? Did you use a spreadsheet or software? What was the most stressful part? Would you have paid for something that organised everything and produced a HMRC-ready schedule? I’m not selling anything — just trying to understand the pain points. Thanks

For most of the lintels, I used a 200x200 bit of stone and then put a Birtly SBL200 above with a 10mm gap between the two for the Birtly to deflect. I have one huge lintel that couldn't be done in one piece of stone so I resin bolted 6 pieces to a huge box lintel. I'll try and find some photos on my phone later.

I have looked at EPDM but someone said I'd be bonkers going for this with pedestals? And the cost covered VCL, insulation, waterproofing, edges (incl leadwork). Not the pedestals or paving stones.

Sorry to bring this up again - I sat on this for a while whilst sorting out other things but planning to get this done over the next few weeks. I had a quote come back at £15k for 30m2 completely square flat roof. The quote is based on the bauder total bitumen system https://www.bauder.co.uk/flat-roof-solutions/reinforced-bituminous-membrane/bauder-total-roof-system Thoughts on this? Feels very steep to me at circa £500 per m2.

Hi guys, Any recommendations on the best type of flat roof to go for? Everyone I speak to has a different opinion so I'm sure it will be no different asking the question on here, but still keen to get people's view and reasons why. The roof construction will be concrete hollowcore planks, screed to falls on top, circa 200mm insulation, roof waterproofing (no idea what's best?), pedestals, paving stones. I've been looking at the Bauder total bitumen warm flat roof system, but some other people have said EDPM will be better. One person suggested GRP on the basis it's covered and the sun won't get to it so easily (I know they expand and contract quite considerably). Any thoughts, ideas, etc welcome!

Did you get a photo of the final detail? Assume it hasn't fallen down? Same problem 3 years on...

I sent this as a sketch to my S.E and he said it was fine to birdsmouth it to sit in the hanger? Yellow is the timber rafter.

Anyone's thoughts on doing this? Just using regular joist hangers and putting a cut in to the rafter? I guess it's one for S.E

Hi guys, I have a cut roof (ridge steel with timber fixed inside the flange, then rafters fixed to these timbers). I have just been told by S.E I cannot fix my rafters into the timbers inside the steels using 'skew nailing' and that it needs to be joist hung. Looking online, these varying pitch joist hangers seem crazy money? Like £5 plus per hanger? I found this product at a sensible price but it only goes to 30 degrees, whereas I have a 47 degree pitch roof: https://www.strongtie.co.uk/en-UK/products/ridge-rafter-connector-rr Anyone have any ideas? Cheers