Temp

All painted up and plumbed in. Really pleased with the way the rounded corners turned out. You keep wanting to stroke them. I used two coats of Rust-oleum kitchen cabinet paint (which went on well with a brush) over Zinsser primer. Knobs off Amazon. Room still looks a bit bare but will get a mirror, towel rail, shaver socket etc after the shower is done.

No that's actually a good thing. Current is drawn by the load not forced out by the supply. So the 1.67A is the current that the Echo will draw from the supply. The 3.25A is the current that the power supply could deliver without getting unhappy. In effect the Echo will only be giving the power adaptor an easy life.

Any 18V DC >1.7A adaptor should work fine. You could get one with the transformer in a brick in the cable rather than in the plug. What connector does it have? Unfortunately there are many versions of the standard 5.5mm barrel jack. Typically the pin diameter on the inside varies (eg 2.1mm or 2.5mm) meaning some combinations won't fit and some are loose. Some universal adaptors come with interchangeable jack plugs for this reason. Edit: something like this.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-AC-DC-Adaptor-Supply-onbeat/dp/B0B4PCF7LC/ref=sr_1_37?crid=31XW1JLVMCYRC&keywords=18v+dc+power+adapter&qid=1672165108&sprefix=18v+dc+%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-37 But check your kit is centre positive.

I think the pump controls delta T but modulation is used to reduce the actual boiler power. If the boiler output power (size of flame) is constant changing the delta T doesn't reduce the power going to the floor/rads.

Did you notify SSE in advance? Google found.. https://www.sseairtricity.com/uk/home/help-centre/understanding-your-bill/rates-and-charges/what-other-charges-might-i-be-billed-for/ Disconnection and reconnection charges Description Explanation Cost (ex-VAT) De-energisation fee (non-payment) Disconnection due to non-payment £66.00 De-energisation fee (other than non-payment) All other disconnections £66.00 Re-energisation fee (non-payment) Reconnection where property was disconnected due to non-payment £66.00 Re-energisation fee (other than non-payment) All other reconnections £109.00 The general terms and condition are here.. https://www.sseairtricity.com/assets/Terms/ElecNI/NI-Dom-Terms-21092012SSE.pdf I can't see a Disconnection fee mentioned in your situation but it does talk about other charges in section 4. See also section 7. Was it disconnected on/before the date you had given to SSE?

My understanding is that gas boilers modulate the burner to keep the flow temperature to a set/target value. So if the flow rate changes due to TRV closing the boiler output power reduces automatically. In that case you would just use weather compensation to control the set/target temperature.

Got planning permission? Or will it meet Permitted Development rules?

Some DIY sheds will give you a VAT receipt if you ask for one. They hand wrote me a few when we built in 2007. However I think the rules say till receipts are ok for up to some limit?

What protected species do you have? Bats... https://www.bats.org.uk/our-work/buildings-planning-and-development/lighting They have a guide here... https://cdn.bats.org.uk/uploads/pdf/Resources/EUROBATSguidelines8_lightpollution.pdf?v=1542109376 https://theilp.org.uk/publication/guidance-note-9-domestic-exterior-lighting-getting-it-right/ which makes the design process look horrendous but if you skip over that the message is to fit lights as low as possible so you only illuminate the areas really necessary and use warm white LED Ideally <2700k.

In my area they claim to have a planning officer, conservation officer etc but they are part time shared with other councils. Previously they had two planning officers for just our area so workload to staff ratio has changed by factor of four.

Coal fire. Parquet floor. Curtains. Record player. Wine rack. Dog. Budgie.

Where is the water vapour coming from? You putting wet car in there?

Construction Enquirer: Plasterboard prices set for major New Year hike. https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/12/19/plasterboard-prices-set-for-major-new-year-hike/

Sorry if obvious but I don't think you can put the 8m extension on the application for a certificate of lawfulness, at least not until its been granted under the prior approval scheme. I think if you do it will be refused.

Yes !... https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-StudBuddy-Magnetic-Stud-Finder/dp/B00E4690X4/ref=sr_1_7?crid=LVNGN2MFIUG1&keywords=stud+finder&qid=1671399530&sprefix=Stud+finder%2Caps%2C1063&sr=8-7 But its just a magnet used to find the screw holding the plasterboard to the stud.

Garages are normally treated as unheated so the separating wall between house and garage needs same U-values as an external wall. But I'm not sure what thet will be in your case. I suspect for fire proofing you will need plasterboard on both sides? I know the NHBC isn't same as Building Regs but they suggest 30min fire rating is required.. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/10.1/compartment-walls-between-garages-revised-march-2017-.pdf The same will apply to any doors in the wall between cinverted rooms and garage. I think 12.5mm plasterboard each side gives 30min fire protection. 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard board gets 60min.

If you want the original company to pay to fix it you may have to give them "opportunity to rectify". Otherwise if it went to court they could claim they offered to fix it but you didn't let them. You might have to prove they didn't have the expertise using expert witnesses. If its not a huge amount of money I would get another company in. However this time have them explain to you (ideally in writing) what the work involves so you can check it meets your expectations before they start.

When we lived in Belgium it was normal over there to be quoted a figure ex VAT and be asked "how much you wanted on the invoice"? This reduced the VAT which was otherwise 21.5% but if you ever had to take a supplier to court you might have a hard time getting all your money back.

Instead of replacing it see if they will give you more to put on top?

I'd apply for house and garage. The planners almost never impose a time limit by which it must all be completed. If they do you can appeal that condition or reapply without the garage etc If there is no time limit for completion its very unlikely you would get in trouble for not building the garage. Normally you are only allowed one VAT reclaim which must be submitted within 3 months of completion. If the garage isn't on your Planning Grant you can't reclaim the VAT on the materials for the garage. If it is on your Planning Grant but not built with the house you might not be able to reclaim the VAT on the garage. Don't delay completion or filing your VAT reclaim for too long. Even if you can't afford the garage consider digging and filling its foundations and running a duct for electricity at the appropriate time in the construction of the house.

Yes and no. Mine doesn't have a heater so it's always injecting 16C fresh air. If you didn't have the mvhr system the incoming cold air through trickle vents would be at outside air temperature (-2c where I live just now). That would cool it even more. Does the fan speed change when the heating element is on vs off? I'm not familiar with that model but I would expect the flow rate to be higher when it's heating and reduce when it's just ventilating. I might be wrong about that. If the house isn't getting warm enough my guess is either the fan speed when heating is too low or 3KW isn't quite enough in this cold weather. If the fan speed is too low when heating the air temp might reach 29C turning off the heater before the room temperature reaches its target temperature. Increasing fan flow rate when heating would drop the temperature of the incoming air but increase the amount of energy by allowing the heater to be on for a higher percentage of time.

I'm a bit late but.. Removing an actuator head normally turns a loop on. This might be a way to test a floor loop even if the stats/elec controlling it aren't reliable. But you do need at least one stat calling for heat correctly or the manifold pump won't run. So if you have one reliable stat try turning that way up to wake the manifold permanant, then physically remove the actuator head from a "suspect" loop. Check the pin is up and you are getting flow and then wait to see if that room warms up. If that room/floor loop warns up then the issue is with the electrics controlling that actuator. If the room doesnt warm up to at least say 21C its some sort of issue with the loop or it's installation.

Just make sure you reconnect the pipe before you pull the plug to check for the screw 🙂

Looks like the JG tails might be metal with a plastic coating. I'll go take a look and if so I'll go for them.

The monoblock tap I'm fitting was supplied with tails intended for use with copper pipe (eg compression and metal olive). I'm using JG Speedfit 15mm plastic pipe and the obvious thing to do is replace the supplied tails with these.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-monobloc-tap-connector-15mm-x-m10mm-x-300mm-2-pack/99193 However these are plastic and ive always used metal braided flexible hose. The Hep20 tails are metal braid, can you safely use Hep20 fittings with JG pipe? Failing that could I remove compression nut and olive from the supplied tails and mate the result with one of these.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-straight-tap-connectors-15mm-x-1-2-2-pack/29175