Temp

Glad to hear it's sorted.

I tack glued it into an L shape of MDF strips to stop it rotating as I ran it through the table saw. You can buy 1m lengths of the 76mm "dowel" for £41 but I went for a 500mm length at about £24 and used all four quarters. Wasn't as hard as I expected. Cist breakdown.. Basin was around £240 Cabinet cost me.. 1.5 sheets of 18mm water resist mdf. £70 ish 1 sheet of 9mm ditto £30 ish A 76mm/3" diameter cylinder of Tulipwood from here.. £25 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tulipwood-Dowels-350mm-500mm-1m-lengths-various-diameters/324138601208?var=513190789483&pageci=40a9fb04-ce16-4b9c-8b6d-97f49b4bff70&redirect=mobile Pair of Blum hinges £15 Tin of Zinsser £17 Tin of Rustoleum £25 Knobs - pack of 8 different £15 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078XH7NFF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Total for cabinet around £210. Overall about £450. Quite a few hours. Not exactly sure as I didn't count them and they were spread over about two months of odd days here and there. If I had to make one in a hurry probably a weeks work but I'm slow and listen to the Archers! I'm just a DIYer working in a shed way too small to cut 8*4 sheets. Had them cut in quarters by Huntingdon Timber so they fit in the S-Max.

That's exactly why I made it 🙂

Normally the cold side of the insulation has to be ventilated to the outside. Is there any membrane under the tiles and if so is it an old bitumen like material or a modern vapour permeable membrane? Any writing on it? If its not a vapour permeable type there should be a 50mm ventilated cavity between the membrane and the insulation. Each rafter bay ventilated at eaves and ridge If it is vapour permeable you can get away with a 25mm non-ventilated void. Some void is normally needed to stop the membrane being trapped between insulation and tile batten. If the insulation presses the membrane to the underside of the battens it can prevent water running down the membrane. Instead it can pool above the batten causing the battens to rot. On the inside of the insulation it would be wise to fit a plastic vapour barrier then plasterboard. You don't need a void unless you want one for pipes or wires.

Used the recharge time calculator here.. https://myboiler.com/calculators/hot-water-recovery-time-calculator/ 30kW boiler, 250L tank. Time to raise temperature from 35 to 60C worked out at 15 mins which isnt too bad.

Think most are just a strip of plastic another block that slides on it. Crude but effective. Ours has been working for so long I'd almost forgotten it was there until you mentioned it.

All painted up and plumbed in. Really pleased with the way the rounded corners turned out. You keep wanting to stroke them. I used two coats of Rust-oleum kitchen cabinet paint (which went on well with a brush) over Zinsser primer. Knobs off Amazon. Room still looks a bit bare but will get a mirror, towel rail, shaver socket etc after the shower is done.

No that's actually a good thing. Current is drawn by the load not forced out by the supply. So the 1.67A is the current that the Echo will draw from the supply. The 3.25A is the current that the power supply could deliver without getting unhappy. In effect the Echo will only be giving the power adaptor an easy life.

Any 18V DC >1.7A adaptor should work fine. You could get one with the transformer in a brick in the cable rather than in the plug. What connector does it have? Unfortunately there are many versions of the standard 5.5mm barrel jack. Typically the pin diameter on the inside varies (eg 2.1mm or 2.5mm) meaning some combinations won't fit and some are loose. Some universal adaptors come with interchangeable jack plugs for this reason. Edit: something like this.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-AC-DC-Adaptor-Supply-onbeat/dp/B0B4PCF7LC/ref=sr_1_37?crid=31XW1JLVMCYRC&keywords=18v+dc+power+adapter&qid=1672165108&sprefix=18v+dc+%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-37 But check your kit is centre positive.

I think the pump controls delta T but modulation is used to reduce the actual boiler power. If the boiler output power (size of flame) is constant changing the delta T doesn't reduce the power going to the floor/rads.

Did you notify SSE in advance? Google found.. https://www.sseairtricity.com/uk/home/help-centre/understanding-your-bill/rates-and-charges/what-other-charges-might-i-be-billed-for/ Disconnection and reconnection charges Description Explanation Cost (ex-VAT) De-energisation fee (non-payment) Disconnection due to non-payment £66.00 De-energisation fee (other than non-payment) All other disconnections £66.00 Re-energisation fee (non-payment) Reconnection where property was disconnected due to non-payment £66.00 Re-energisation fee (other than non-payment) All other reconnections £109.00 The general terms and condition are here.. https://www.sseairtricity.com/assets/Terms/ElecNI/NI-Dom-Terms-21092012SSE.pdf I can't see a Disconnection fee mentioned in your situation but it does talk about other charges in section 4. See also section 7. Was it disconnected on/before the date you had given to SSE?

My understanding is that gas boilers modulate the burner to keep the flow temperature to a set/target value. So if the flow rate changes due to TRV closing the boiler output power reduces automatically. In that case you would just use weather compensation to control the set/target temperature.

Got planning permission? Or will it meet Permitted Development rules?

Some DIY sheds will give you a VAT receipt if you ask for one. They hand wrote me a few when we built in 2007. However I think the rules say till receipts are ok for up to some limit?

What protected species do you have? Bats... https://www.bats.org.uk/our-work/buildings-planning-and-development/lighting They have a guide here... https://cdn.bats.org.uk/uploads/pdf/Resources/EUROBATSguidelines8_lightpollution.pdf?v=1542109376 https://theilp.org.uk/publication/guidance-note-9-domestic-exterior-lighting-getting-it-right/ which makes the design process look horrendous but if you skip over that the message is to fit lights as low as possible so you only illuminate the areas really necessary and use warm white LED Ideally <2700k.

In my area they claim to have a planning officer, conservation officer etc but they are part time shared with other councils. Previously they had two planning officers for just our area so workload to staff ratio has changed by factor of four.

Coal fire. Parquet floor. Curtains. Record player. Wine rack. Dog. Budgie.

Where is the water vapour coming from? You putting wet car in there?

Construction Enquirer: Plasterboard prices set for major New Year hike. https://www.constructionenquirer.com/2022/12/19/plasterboard-prices-set-for-major-new-year-hike/

Sorry if obvious but I don't think you can put the 8m extension on the application for a certificate of lawfulness, at least not until its been granted under the prior approval scheme. I think if you do it will be refused.

Yes !... https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-StudBuddy-Magnetic-Stud-Finder/dp/B00E4690X4/ref=sr_1_7?crid=LVNGN2MFIUG1&keywords=stud+finder&qid=1671399530&sprefix=Stud+finder%2Caps%2C1063&sr=8-7 But its just a magnet used to find the screw holding the plasterboard to the stud.

Garages are normally treated as unheated so the separating wall between house and garage needs same U-values as an external wall. But I'm not sure what thet will be in your case. I suspect for fire proofing you will need plasterboard on both sides? I know the NHBC isn't same as Building Regs but they suggest 30min fire rating is required.. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/10.1/compartment-walls-between-garages-revised-march-2017-.pdf The same will apply to any doors in the wall between cinverted rooms and garage. I think 12.5mm plasterboard each side gives 30min fire protection. 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard board gets 60min.

If you want the original company to pay to fix it you may have to give them "opportunity to rectify". Otherwise if it went to court they could claim they offered to fix it but you didn't let them. You might have to prove they didn't have the expertise using expert witnesses. If its not a huge amount of money I would get another company in. However this time have them explain to you (ideally in writing) what the work involves so you can check it meets your expectations before they start.

When we lived in Belgium it was normal over there to be quoted a figure ex VAT and be asked "how much you wanted on the invoice"? This reduced the VAT which was otherwise 21.5% but if you ever had to take a supplier to court you might have a hard time getting all your money back.

Instead of replacing it see if they will give you more to put on top?