Temp

Just a heads up.. We have a different Clearwater bath and I recall they make two different sizes for many of their range.

We also have some oak posts on brick plinths. They are located using a length of 20mm stainless round bar sticking up into a hole in the bottom of the post. They hold up a small tiled roof overhang so no need to fix them down.

Put some washing up liquid in the weedkiller. Helps get it past the waxy coating on mares-tail. You might also try walking on it to crack the stems. Let the weedkiller do its thing for a few days before cutting..

Not sure about german regs but a bit of googling found.. https://www.rehau.com/downloads/1273612/awadukt-sewer-pipe-system.pdf

Why use anything? It will stop any water that does get in from escaping.

+2 Most underground pipe is brown/orange and stronger, more rigid than the grey indoor pipe. Might explain the dent?

If paving upto the house it's essential the final surface is 150mm below your DPC and there is a fall away from the house. In the front garden it's essential to ensure rainwater doesn't run onto the footpath/road because you need planning permission if rainwater isnt handled on site ( eg using a soakaway or draining onto flower beds etc). The fall away from the house might mean that a linear drain across the driveway to a soakaway is a good idea. They can also be used across garages etc.

Most weeds don't really grow up through the gaps they grow down into them. It's near impossible to prevent that - I resort to weedkiller. The Paving Expert website is great for all things paving.. Choosing.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks03 https://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks Example specifications.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/specs01#specbpv In my experience the two key things to get right are the preparation (compacting the ground, compacting hardcore in layers, falls, drainage etc) and edging/kerbs especially on driveways but also if ride on mowers will drive over edges. If you don't get that right no matter how good it looks initially it won't last. Brick pavers are normally laid on sand over hardcore but if you change your mind to something else like Paving slabs they may be laid on mortar.. With some types of slab or on steps and capping stones it's essential to butter the back of them with a slurry primer not just lay them on mortar. If you don't they will come unstuck after a few years. I've used Ultrascape Pro Prime for this. Mortar should also be full coverage not dot and dab (With some types of stone the mortar pattern will show through as surface staining). Pictures from the Paving Expert site..

It should already be bedded on/in pea gravel. I would lift that section and a further 100-150mm down. Compact any loose ground using something like a fence post to pound it down. Fill with gravel raked to give you the required fall. Fit pipe and pour more gravel to cover it. https://www.pavingexpert.com/drain02

I'm sure all of us have learnt something just eavesdropping on someone's question and the replies. I know I have.

PS In case not obvious the gasket doesn't form any part of the pipe sealing. There are big clearance holes in it for the pipes. I made mine oversize, taped it to the wall, fitted WC and trimmed back with a razor blade.

No ours is a "boat bath" with no feet. Trap fits between bath and floor. We find we get a lot of fluf and dust down between the bath and wall but it only gets cleaned back there once or twice a year.

Perhaps see 53 seconds into this vid. Looks easy enough..

The water main coming into most houses does exactly this. I'd use hdpe pipe and avoid any joints in the floor. Have bends parallel to the wall (rather than perpendicular as shown in your picture so they aren't so sharp.

Our waste exits out the back of the bath. From there we used a flexible pipe to connect to the waste in the floor. We actually used a longer length than needed in a path like this.. __________ | |__________ so the whole bath can easily be moved away from the wall for cleaning. Wall mounted taps and spout.

Ours came with a (damaged) foam gasket sheet that I replaced with one cut from this.. 3mm white.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Closed-Cell-polyethylene-foam-sheet-1M-x-1M-insulation-waterproof-rigid-strong/352142516963?var=621587385445&pageci=3c4533a5-13fb-485b-9a3a-4be9e8c36d2d&redirect=mobile It's not a hard foam, more like medium rubber, but felt similar to the one supplied and more durable. After tightening up the bolts I used a sealer same as others did above. It's easier to do before fitting the seat..

Is it really worth £2k though? Is it much bigger/better than say.. £599 https://www.bigbathroomshop.co.uk/milano-overton-white-modern-oval-double-ended-freestanding-bath-1500mm-x-750mm-118374?gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M94b6pMsOIhqjIZu2qJbew2CM6Zy-airXft7k8hM0K-e4s8XmBBzbQhoCuFcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds £399.. https://victoriaplum.com/browse/all-baths/type_Freestanding-baths?csi=FSB017&gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M93pbKIctmFzsa3mvloJlSAO3eMXLx-LUX_F9qkhVkdMutzSuolmBwBoCRRUQAvD_BwE

Perhaps drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it propagating before any repair.

I have used these for pressure treated soft wood fence posts but they are messy. When you use a heat gun to shrink the sleeve you get black gloop squeeze out. OK for fence posts but perhaps not for this? Edit: I suppose you could wrap the post with clingfilm or tape to protect it and keep the exposed section clean. +1 I suppose the L shape might allow fittings like these but I'm not sure about the side loads. https://www.amazon.co.uk/support-bracket-adjustable-Terminal-90X130X8/dp/B01LZGXEPV/ref=asc_df_B01LZGXEPV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=446856026572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1467536357360235964&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044886&hvtargid=pla-750585532533&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=103463556386&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=446856026572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1467536357360235964&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044886&hvtargid=pla-750585532533

Could do or just leave it open.

Best consult an electrician which I'm not. But the Cable calculator here.. https://www.elandcables.com/cable-calculator If you enter 100A, 20m, single phase, buried in the ground it suggests either.. Armoured thermoplastic insulated cables - Multicore 70°C Cable size: 35mm Cables include: BS5467 SWA, BS6724 SWA (equipment connected rated 70⁰C) Or Armoured thermoset insulated cables - Multicore 90°C Cable size: 25mm Cables include: BS5467 SWA, BS6724 SWA 35mm^2 SWA is perhaps £9 to £10 a meter. 20m would £200, some places offer free delivery.

If we can't sell it I have a flat that's been empty two years and in need of a new kitchen and redecorating. I'll have to see which route works out cheaper - DIY and 20% Vat or a builder and 5% Vat.

Yes that's it exactly.

How much work is left? If its clearly identifiable as say 4 weeks work perhaps offer to pay weekly if you see progress on schedule.

Can you get the builder to issue you invoices? I mean for materials supply only not supply and fit? HMRC might still question it if they see its a builder supplying materials but if marked "supply only" might get away with it.