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That's very good news. Good luck with that. Some people see any tree as sacred even if it's damaging better quality trees nearby. I've got a line of assorted trees down the side of my plot (now garden) that we have never actually wanted to remove. During the planning process I had to get a tree survey done and without prompting the arboriculturist described them as "self seeded rubbish that he would remove if it was his plot" and "removing them would benefit the nice beech trees in the church yard". The council tree officer obviously disagreed and required me to erect fencing to protect them from damage during construction even though it was nowhere near them. More than two years later I had to cut up a fallen branch with a chain saw. That started a rumor I was cutting down these trees. Suddenly everyone is out walking their dog through the church yard. When I explained what I was doing they replied "we were worried you were cutting down the trees". You might consider offering to replace them with native (slow growing!) trees.

I agree with Peter. That would need planning permission because its over 1m high. I think it would be difficult to get PP for a wall as most likely they will say a wall will look too massive. You could try for a 2m wall and agree to amend it to a 2m fence? Failing that I think your best bet is a 1m high fence (no planning permission required) and a hedge to match the neighbour as Peter suggests. Once it's 2m high you might get permission for a 2m wall but I doubt it. .

I don't believe you need planning permission to replace a wall with a fence that is the same height and in the same position (unless there is an article 4 direction for the area or a planning condition). If it's going to be nearer the road then I think very likely you would need planning permission if over 1m. PS: I don't think the physical layout of the road and path makes any real difference. The highway probably extends right up to your property boundary anyway. They could in theory widen the road and move the footpath nearer. I have a wide grass verge in front of my house and a footpath that crosses the road and verge it at 90 degrees. Apparently the route of the footpath across the verge "isn't defined" because the whole verge is part of the highway so people can in theory walk, drive or park anywhere on it.

These look cool.. https://www.kwikset.com/kevo/default The video doesn't tell you much. I assume it uses your phone to identify you when you touch the lock, or perhaps a blue tooth key fob?

One of my sons is into indoor climbing. His prints wear off and he has problems with the finger print recognition on his phone :-)

Don't think you need planning permission to go from B1 to residential. Just need to do the "Prior Approval Application" process. Access issues can be difficult to resolve. First step would be to register on the Land Registry web site and order the title deeds for the property AND the surrounding properties. They email you pdf files almost instantly. If the site charges more than £7 each its probably a fake site. The title for neighbouring properties should detail any rights of way over their land that are already recognised by the land registry. You can search the register by property address. https://www.gov.uk/get-information-about-property-and-land/search-the-register Additional rights of way might exist "by prescription" but you may have to prove the route has been used for 20 years without interruption and without permission. For example see guides such as.. https://www.wrighthassall.co.uk/knowledge/legal-articles/2014/03/14/claiming-right-way-prescription/ If you can prove it you can get the right of way registered on their deeds. Note that if the neighbour agreed a previous owner could use their driveway for access informally you won't be able to claim a right of way exists and the neighbour could withdraw permission at any time. Eg The use for 20 years must be without permission. If you proved the side door had been used for 20 years that might only get you a right of way on foot. Eg not for a vehicle. Eventually you will need professional advice.

https://www.oadby-wigston.gov.uk/pages/amendments_following_the_grant_of_planning_permission Minor Material Amendments Central government consider that the definition of a minor material amendment is 'one whose scale and nature results in a development which is not substantially different from the one which has been approved'. In essence, a minor material amendment is something of a minor nature that has a material impact on the proposed development or on neighbouring properties. Amendments which are not minor in nature cannot be considered under this procedure and should be the subject of a new planning application.

Normally you would need to make either a "minor material amendment" or a "non-material amendment" depending on the scale of the change. You can google the rules on what counts as a minor material amendment. I think they can ask for a full application if the overall scale of the development changes.

It sounds like they thought you wanted to build the extension under PDR so were expecting you to ask for the condition removing PDR to be deleted.

PIR is left exposed in cavity walls while they are built. I'd just buy a large cheap tarp off ebay. Stick some blocks on it. I'd be more worried about it being stolen .

PS The edges of green oak can be surprisingly sharp. Consider rounding or chamfering them before assembly. This may also extend life of the finish. If you want to retain the honey colour of new oak I recommend either... 1 coat Danish & 3 coats Osmo UV Protection oil. or Something like 1 thin coat of Sadolin Classic light oak and 2/3 of Sadolin Extra Clear. Must be thin coats!

At the bottom build a brick plinth with a 15-20mm diameter stainless steel rod sticking out the top. Drill matching hole in bottom of post. Cover plinth with bit of lead sheet draped about 0.75" down the sloping face of the plinth bricks (anti frost measure) before placing oak post in position over the rod. At top drill drill an oversize hole/slot for a screw so the post can move vertically. The oak will/can shrink in length about 20mm. If hole not made oversize you can get a gap at the bottom of the post with the whole weight hanging on the top screw. Dont ask how I know. Use stainless steel screw with washers under the head as PeterW suggests. Plug screw head hole with oak peg to simulate a pegged joint.

Some people don't have a handle on their front door , just a keyhole and the key works the bolt (no latch).

Toolstation sell an electric mortice release. https://www.toolstation.com/electric-mortice-release/p33871?store=K1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjwx_boBRA9EiwA4kIELut56idmCnJLD72M6AbtPcpr00BG5ymu2aBck7_ahMVTV8xCKgWfbRoCIwUQAvD_BwE I can think of a few ways to use one of these to do what you want. Push button on outside to unlock door. Switch or numeric keypad inside to lock it and disable outside button.

If you have PP to knock down the barn and build a new house to live in yourself you should be exempt from the CIL, but as others have said you MUST follow the exact sequence detailed on the forms or you can loose the exemption. The rules on a conversion are not clear... I wrote to my MP and had him check if the exemption applies to a conversion. I got a reply that didn't really answer the question. My feeling was the government were happy to leave this as a grey area up to individual councils/courts. If your council decides conversions aren't eligible the calculation should deduct the area of existing buildings, so its only the increase in area that is charged and only if the new area is over 100sqm. So suppose you plan to convert a 200sqm barn to a 250sqm house. The new floor area is 250sqm which is more than 100sqm so CIL is payable but its only payable on the increase which is 250-200=50sqm. I know this will sound odd but it does appear to be the way councils are interpreting the >100sqm rule.

260kohm equates to about 1mA leakage current. Bit low to trip an RCD?

The fastest way you can get a bonus is to pay in £1,200 then make 2 monthly payments of £200 making £1600 in total for which you get £400 bonus. Total time about 3 months. The slowest possible way would be to pay in just enough to reach £1,600 in 2030. If we say 2030 is about 120 months away it means the minimum you need to save is at least £14 a month (£14 * 120 = £1,680).

No that's wrong. The _maximum_ you can save is £200 a month, except when you open it when you can put in a lump sum of £1200. There is a minimum bonus of £400 so you must have saved £1,600 before you can claim. There is a maximum bonus of £3,000 for which you need to have saved £12,000. Details https://www.helptobuy.gov.uk/help-to-buy-isa/how-does-it-work/ Martin Lewis urging people to consider a Help to Buy ISA.. https://www.thesun.co.uk/money/9227324/martin-lewis-first-time-buyers-help-buy-isa-now/

Anyone with kids over 16 should consider opening a Help to Buy ISA for them even if you just put £1 in. That's because the scheme ends on 30th November 2019. You can continue to put money in after then and use it to buy a house until 2030. You need to be over 18 to start a Lifetime ISA but it's 16 for Help to Buy ISA.

Depends on the architect and your build method. Getting him to do the building control drawing pack and getting it approved might be a reasonable minimum. On the other hand you could also employ him to oversee the build making regular inspections during construction but it can get expensive. Typically they want a percentage of the finished build cost, so if you decide to go for a better kitchen you can end up paying another % to the architect even if he has no involvement with the kitchen design.

Think I would stick with rads. We have 80mm of celotex under our UFH and wish we had more.

Mixed supply should be at the lowest rate. Eg "Supply and fit" should all be zero rated as labor is zero rated. I believe both "design" and "supply" are standard rated. Normally only materials/supply can be reclaimed but I think you might ok if it's not itemised.

Might also be a problem with the spring. You may need to leave that off as well.

So there was a condition that required the materials be approved before starting work. If that wasn't discharged its very likely the planning permission expired. The seller should be able to tell you if this condition was discharged but you are right to check with the planners on its status. You might find the planners aren't prepared to tell you its status in writing. Such a letter wouldn't be binding on them anyway. To be 100% safe legally you would need them to issue a certificate of lawfulness for which there is a fee and time delay.

Only time I've noticed glass is green is when the edge is visible, never seen an issue with it effecting the colour of light in a room. We also went for low iron glass (Optiwhite) on our frameless shower but that was just to get rid of the green edges. http://www.glasswarehouse.co.uk/optiwhite-glass-low-iron-toughened-glass/ Google suggests you can get low iron glass sealed units made.