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I think that's telling you how to calculate the effective collecting area. Lets say your house had a footprint/plan area of 1000sqm and a weird roof that was half flat and half had a 45 degree pitch the effective area would be 500 + (500*1.5) = 500+750 = 1250sqm.

My parents stored apples in the loft but they spread them out on newspapers.

I think they may just be no win no fee ambulance chasers.

Make sure you understand the difference between a 10 Year Warranty and an Architect's certificate. They aren't the same. https://titan-insurance.com/architects-certificate-or-structural-warranty-insurance/

Do you have a quote and bank statement showing you paid same amount? I'd try that if you can't get an invoice.

Found one here.. https://www.yourspreadsheets.co.uk/soakaway-design.html Scroll down for download link. PS can't view it using the tablet I'm on. Needs macros enabled.

There must be a spreadsheet out there somewhere to bash the numbers for you? I'm mean one based on the BRE method.

British Gas started installing smart meters well before the government got interested. I think this was partly to influence the standard and partly because they thought it would make switching harder or at least discourage switching. The government set up a company that is meant to make all meters portable between suppliers. That will happen first for SMEETS 2 standard meters. After that they are meant to go back and make all SMEETS 1 meters portable. Problem is the government keeps extending the deadlines allowing companies to continue to install SMEETS 1 meters. I would love a smart meter but on principal I'm refusing until they can guarantee to give me a SMEETS 2 meter and force smaller suppliers to support it. Currently I think only the larger companies are even obliged to support smart meters (or am I out of date?) PS I'm a retired electronics engineer/project manager. Companies have been claiming a shortage of SMEETS 2 meters for at least a year. That might be true but the government doesn't seem to be asking why. Apple have no problems making many more phones and changing models every few months. I smell a rat.

The BRE have a guide. They normally charge for it but I found a copy online here.. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/productattachments/index/download%3Fid%3D29&ved=2ahUKEwig2frsr5DpAhWUtXEKHYSmBFMQFjABegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3u7CprWtvZacdYCQlxh2OX&cshid=1588257907298

Another possibility is to step the wall out instead of making it angled.

I had the same concerns but went for it anyway. We are also rural location with twin boys about 5 years old when we finished the house. They are 18 now. We went for engineered oak pre-finished with Osmo Hardwax oil and has stood up very well. We have only had to recoat the downstairs WC due to water damage. The only precaution we have taken is a rug in the entrance hall right by front dor. From there you walk through the the dining room to get to living room and kitchen. Hall and Dining room is engineered oak but kitchen is stone. We no longer worry about it and wear shoes when bringing in shopping etc.

Why can't it go in ceilings?

Do you actually need planning permission to convert the barn?

I don't think you need Building Control Approval but check.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/2 It's likely the electrics might be notifiable. Eg need to be done by an appropriately qualified electrician who will self certify his work to Building Control.

It's a good idea to end all site inspections by asking the BCO/NHBC when he wants you to call him back for the next one as they all have their own idea.

I'm a late to this thread but also horrified. I can only add my support to all the words of concern by others. Pretty sure the under pinning work requires Building Control Approval. You as owner are ultimately responsible for getting that. Most reputable builders would tell you Building Control needed to be involved and factor the fee into their quote. Rogue builders won't mention it so their quote can be lower or they can pocket the fee. Building Control are very likely to want you to hire a structural engineer to validate the design of the retaining wall. Personally I wouldn't dream of building a 12ft retaining wall without input from a structural engineer. Have you notified your house insurance company about the building work? That's usually a condition of the policy. If the work you are doing causes damage your policy is very unlikely to cover you if you didn't tell them about it. Underpinning is a particular red flag to insurance companies and can put up your annual premium. In addition to permission for a a dropped kerb you might need Planning Permission. It's needed for the parking area if you just concrete it over without dealing with surface water run off. Eg rain falling on the concrete/paving must be collected and sent to a soakaway. You can't just let it run into the road, that's not allowed anymore. The council have some powers to make you comply with legislation. In extreme cases they can do work for you and send you the bill. If you can't pay they can force you to sell assets such as your house to pay the bill. That doesn't happen often but your work risks damaging other houses not just your own so they might take a tough line.

+1 The important bit about an "Application for a dropped kerb" is that it gets you permission to drive over the pavement. The annoying bit is the cost of dropping the kerb. Example.. https://www.tameside.gov.uk/kerbdropping

This is about cutting back branches but same applies to roots.. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=1022

The right has limitations... https://www.tbilaw.co.uk/site/blog/Business-News/what-can-i-do-about-my-neighbours-tree Since you know your actions might kill the tree you could also liable for damages due to negligence not just the replacement cost of the tree. The reason I know this is because I once was part of a group that was advised by a solicitor to write to a neighbour to make certain he was aware of problems his development might cause if he went ahead. You become liable for negligence damages if you know your actions might cause a liability but do it anyway. Writing a letter prevented him from later claiming ignorance. In my case it wasn't about trees but did involve a neighbour's plans to build something.

I'm quite interested to know how the condition "falls away"? Is it because the Tree Officer believes that no foundation design can comply so the condition is unreasonable and therefore unenforceable? As far as I know planning permission doesn't give you any rights over the tree. There are quite a few other situations where a grant of planning permission isn't sufficient to allow a house to be built. As I recall this allows access for maintenance of existing buildings only NOT for the purpose of building anything new let alone cutting down trees... But I might be wrong as it's awhile since I looked at it. We piled our garage and that didnt stop it killing a tree a few meters away many years later. I don't think it was the piles that did for it but the proximity of the wall as your tree officer suggested. The tree had a TPO on it as well. We plan to replace it later this year when the season is right for planting trees.

I saw a video on YouTube where someone printed a wide brim or raft around the part then paused the printer and stuck the brim down to the bed with tape, and then restarted printing. I've only ever tried pausing a print once and it didn't go well. Instead of just stopping the print head shot off to one side and tried to keep going stripping rubber teeth off one of the belts. I assume there is a bug in the firmware. Stopping works ok but you can't then resume.

Possibly some sort of heat conducting tape? My printer only had an aluminium bed, had to add glass myself.

It is possible for prints to stick too well. Ive heard of people pulling bits of glass out of their glass bed. Incidentally glass beds are available on amazon in different sizes and I use small bulldog clips to fix it to the aluminium bed my printer came with. I suppose I should jack up the bed temperature a bit but it doesn't seem too critical for PLA. Just finished printing a stack of 8 head bands taking 8.5 hours.

I've just remembered why I haven't tried printing ABS... I printed a lot of parts for my printer from PLA. If I put it in a box and let it get hot the whole thing might melt.

I'm going to have to do some investigating... Up to now I've kept the First Layer Height setting in the slicer the same as other layers (typically 0.3mm) and adjusted the physical bed-nozzle height to a lower value (0.15mm) to squish the filament onto the bed. That works but you end up with the first layer being thinner. On some web pages they say to REDUCE the First Layer Height setting to improve adhesion.... https://3dprinterwiki.info/tips/first-layer-settings/ But then elsewhere they say to INCREASE the First Layer Height setting to improve adhesion... https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/27001-nozzle-height-vs-initial-layer-height/ and I've just noticed that if you mouse over the Initial Layer Height setting in Cura it says..