Temp

They almost all smell of burning paint when new because the heat is needed to fully "set" the paint. As for smoke.. go outside and check where the smoke is going. Could it be lingering around the house and coming back in via trickle vents?

If the builder was negligent then his insurance co might still be on the hook. It would be his insurance co back then rather than now.

Got me wondering whats on my roof. We have valley tiles..

It doesnt look unused. Can see where its been walked? Animals? First thing to do.. 1) Do a search at the land registry to find out who owns it. You may have to request a "map search" as its unlikely to have an address. This involves sending them a OS map with the land highlighted. Make sure to use the real site which looks less professional than the fakes! 2) Find out from the footpath officer or map on county council web if there is a public footpath. If nobody owns it and its not a public footpath you could try claiming it. However the full process takes 12+ years and there are no guarantees. You have to fence it off "to the exclusion of all others" for that time. Ideally with a 6ft fence but planning rules mean it may have to be a 1m fence. Then see what happens. Chances are Mrs Miggins of number 22 will claim she's walked her Pickneese Tricky Woo there for the past 200 years. In which case she may have a right of access and your plan is probably history. If nobody raises any issues you would then need to look at the planning situation. The staircase may be considered a "side extension" and i think there is a 4m height limit above which you need planning permission. If its going to be capable of "seperate occupation" you may need Planning Permission. What you need to do for Building Control Approval may also be an issue as the specification for floors between separate dwellings is different to floors within one dwelling. May also need its own electricity meter, gas, water meters?. If its retained as part of the house, the house becomes 3 storey. That can have implications for your ground floor. For example you may need to replace doors on the ground and first floor. More if its open plan. Lots to think about sorry.

Insulation perhaps?

You might also consider talking to a solicitor if the NHBC can't help. If there is sound insulation over the pipes then someone has been negligent. Keep the reports you have had done and possibly get an expert to comment specifically on the sound insulation issue.

I wonder what the return temperatures are like given..

+1 In awful lot depends on how well insulated the house is, double or tripple glazing etc. Mine built around 2006/7 needs much higher flow temperatures than either suggestion to achieve 20C room temperatures in some rooms where we have 21mm wood floors over UFH. Based on your numbers.. A TOG of 2.1 is equivalent to an R-Value of 0.21 or U-Value of 1/0.21 = 4.76 W/m²·K. The power dissipated per square meter would be U-Value * Temperature difference At 21C.. = 4.76 * (23-21) = 9.5 W per square meter. At 26C'' = 4.76 * (26-21) = 23.8 W per square meter. I'm not very familiar with the SAP/EPC figures but if you have that info perhaps someone can comment if this is all consistent.

I'd say yes. Normally they fail by filling with water instead of air then when the heating is turned on the pressure rises pushing water out of the PRV. The pressure rise appears within limits and no water coming out of PRV.

Regarding Building Control.. Its best to document all communications. Eg after a call follow it up with an email or letter confirming what actions were agreed and who would do them. Same for any site visits.. what actions were agreed and when you should call him next. I would invite him to inspect the foundation trench for the new wall.

Do ASHP come with the sensors needed to monitor the actual COP achieved?

I think those pressures are in the right range. The increase might be slightly larger than normal but not by much. Can't say its definitely a problem. Normal is around 1-1.5 An increase of more than say 1 suggests there might be an issue with the expansion vessel. Anything over 2.5 is getting close to opening the PRV.

I think 7 courses of the 54mm brick is about the same as 2 courses of blocks, both with 10mm mortar.

Personally I would get a solicitor involved or at least find out what they would charge. I've only briefly looked at the application form guidance but I think some sections like number 10 need the right wording because it goes on the register. My understanding is a caution just means you get notified if someone applies to register the land and its at that point you have to prove your right to whats put in section 10. So I think its important that the right things are claimed? They may also be able to advise if its possible to word the application so that future owners of your property are notified so the caution doesn't have to be changed when/if you sell up.

There is bound to be a youtube vid showing how to do it. Its not a very difficult job. Perhaps 15mins or less. Needs a few spanners and a feeler gauge.

To claim full ownership would be very difficult. Typically you have to fence off the land "to the exclusion of all others" for 10/12 years. I believe allowing the owners of the other properties to continue to cross it would preclude this. I believe you are entitled to an easement "by perscription" (use over time). Have a look in here if not already seen. You will most likely need a solicitor withe experience in this area rather than a general conveyancing solicitor.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/easements-claimed-by-prescription/practice-guide-52-easements-claimed-by-prescription#:~:text=1.-,How prescriptive easements may be acquired,by lost modern grant

Can't comment on the choice of render but i do know that a good render job needs attention to details with things like drip beads in the right places. Some render is/isn't approved for use below the dpc etc. Perhaps worth googling for guides.

Tip for the B&S engine.. Some have an automatic decompressor cam that is intended to make starting easier. However the cam hardly lifts the exhaust valve at all so its operation depends on the valve rocker clearance. So if the starter on your B&S engine struggles or even fails to turn over the engine it might not be the starter or battery. Check the valve clearance is spot on.

Some time ago there was someone on ebay making replacement decks (just the deck). They were a bit agricultural looking but probably used thicker metal. They were way cheaper than buying a whole deck assembly like some makes insist you do.

I guess you can't run the beams the other way?

Hope this is allowed. I have no connection with the company except as a happy customer. "All Finishes"have been recommended here before as they usually have good prices on paints. Today they have 10% off if you enter code VALENTINES10 https://allfinishes.co.uk

Fix curtain pole to the ceiling.

If its a partial vacuum your own AAV should be able to deal with it by opening to let air into the stack. That is assuming it in the right place on the pipework and not sealed into air tight boxing.

That second rule is a life saver for people that only hear about the scheme after they move in.

I wouldn't be surprised if there was no insulation or badly fitted insulation in the vertical stud walls of the room in the roof. Thus the ventilated eaves are just plasterboard away from the room. I doubt there is any access to inspect this area. Might be worth drilling a few holes and using a USB endoscope camera?