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It's normally called a hopper. All that would/should be tidied up/replaced. As @PeterW said .. lift a few manhole covers and run taps to see where water from upstairs goes. I m thinking it's probably 2-3 days work and a few £hundred in pipe, bends and branches. However it really depends where the nearest manhole is. eg how far they have to dig and what in. What they have to replace afterwards.

+1 Think I would go whole hog and create a "landing" outside the door thats square - so roughly same width as the door. I assume the door opens inwards? If not then you need even bigger.

I believe what @ProDave means is removing the gully where the pipe enters the patio and replacing with a bend (Its ok for a rainwater or grey water pipe to go into a gully but soil pipes shouldn't be open at ground level). Also replacing the hopper/bucket with a branch or two, one of which would be for the new WC, the other for the existing bath/basin. The downstairs WC need not be touched. If I was doing it I would probably just replace the whole pipe with matching ffittings. Possibly in regular black plastic or the stuff that replicates cast iron pipe? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-cast-iron-effect-sp192ci-92-5-branch-black-110mm/23548?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwmv-DBhAMEiwA7xYrdxNEIQ6Z709Ebv7L7YfpbHbGsQeh0aJ6xZXquXBwSMwSPhnTCFMu1RoCiAgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The hardest part is probably drilling a 110mm hole in the stone for the WC pipe.

Its unlikely you have one. It's like a regular stack but shorter. Instead of going out through the roof to an open vent a stub stack is usually only a few feet high and has an Air Admittance Valve on it. If you have one its probably hidden in boxing in the corner of the down stairs WC. If you had a stub stack already its probably not a hard job to extend it upwards to the new bathroom above. They look something like this.. Its more likely you have a direct connection of some sort like this... The ease with which you can add a stack for upstairs depends on what that existing downstairs room and WC connection is like and what changes can be made in that room. In the example below the WC has been moved sideways (or rather replaced with a different one off to one side) and the pipe extended upstairs. In practice the new pipe would be hidden behind boxing or a false wall so the WC might also be slightly further forward. If that's not possible the cistern could concealed or recessed into the boxing/false wall. This is what my downstairs WC looks like. The stack is hidden on the left as you look at it... The point really is it might not be necessary to put a new hole in the floor. It depends. If you cant do something like above then an outside stack would be the next thing to look at rather than digging up concrete(?) floors. Perhaps they didn't want to have to dig up your patio?. Does the downstairs WC connect into an inspection chamber outside? Perhaps post a bunch of photos and we can suggest other ways forward. PS I'm away travelling tomorrow so may not reply for a day or two.

You aren't normally allowed to put rainwater into the foul sewer. You would probably need to dig up the concret yard and install a proper soakaway. Soakaway must be 2.5m from boundaries and 3m (i think) from the house.

Is there a stub stack in the downstairs WC or just a pipe coming out of the floor into the WC? If its the latter this could be quite a lot of work. Might be easier to run a new stack up the outside of the house.

Perhaos try posting a description of the job on my builder.com. example.. https://www.mybuilder.com/job/view/651662

Is he saying your encasement is inadequate or just that you need to substitute plasterboard for fire board in the existing proposal?

Is the new bathroom above the downstairs WC? Any where close? Its certainly more of a job for a small builder or general worker. What part of the country are you?

What does his quote say? If he's now saying he can't do it then you could terminate his contract and find someone that can do the lot.

Its possible you become liable for the developers CIL from day you purchase the land even if you haven't formally accepted liability for the CIL.... https://www.michelmores.com/news-views/news/community-infrastructure-levy-–-what-residential-developers-need-know If you dont own the plot yet I suspect there aren't many ways out.. 1) reduce your offer by the amount of the CIL. 2) persuade the developer to apply to get his PP changed to a phased development with you plot specifically a phase. Be very careful if you ask the council. Its possible they will give you a stock answer that self builders are exempt without fully investigating the exact situation. Then later when they get their act together they hit you with a demand for your share of the developers CIL. Councils don't normally issue legally binding decisions outside of a Certificate of Lawfulness or similar.

If you have already completed on the plot can he force you to take the transfer?

. I think at least double. If you said 5 mins to fill, move and empty a barrow and had 5 or 6 going at once that would be around one barrow every min on average. Still works out at 88 hours or 11-12 days. Would need a fit crew. I know I couldn't load 12 barrows an hour for very long, let alone push and empty them.

For hand digging.. http://www.planningplanet.com/forums/planning-scheduling-programming-discussion/560899/manual-excavation-duration-1-cu-mtr Says allow 1 cubic meter a day unless you are Egyptian and they budget 2.3 cubic meters a day.

Could you use mini digger to load it onto a conveyor belt to get it through the pinch point and raise it up into a skip/dumper to take it further? Never used one but Jewson has this for £200 a week. Are they just for bricks or can they transport dirt? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/miniveyor-portable-conveyor-JTH00226 Edit: This one for materials from HSS looks better.. https://hsstoolshop.co.uk/shifta-44m-materials-conveyors---110v-for-hire-1180-p.asp Edit: im late to the party again. Seems you've already looked at conveyors. Says upto 60 ton an hour!

As its outside the walled boundary its unlikely to be "within the curtilage of the listed building" so it shouldn't be a problem.

Could get two pretty decent oak wardrobes and a chest of drawers for that. Eg Oak Furniture Land. Where did you get quotes from? I'd try for a local carpenter. They can buy drawers or drawer kits so don't have to make those unless you want non standard sizes.

If the paving slabs are stacked on edge on the pallet then I think a regular two wheel sack trolley would work for moving them around on site. Just "walk" them off the pallet onto the trolley.

Not done it but isn't this what the rubber base for a wacker plate is for? I assumed it was for bedding in and leveling paving laid on sand? Or is that only blocks?

If you wait until you have Planning Permission (and have the CIL exemption paperwork done) then you could hire a "man and digger". Should be zero rated for VAT to you.

Some mini excavators have a blade. Very handy for grubbing up brambles into a bonfire and spreading ashes and levelling ground after. Can also be used to bury things that dont burn. https://www.hss.com/onecall/p/mini-excavator-1-5t PS: Just dont accidentally set fire to it. PPS: Best rates are over a weekend or long BH weekend.

Tricky one. I certainly wouldn't want to pay in advance or end up committed to him in a big way. However if he's a genuine guy with recommendations I would be ok using him labour only - Initially for a fixed/limited task so there is a natural end after a week or two if it doesn't work out?

That's quite a lot of hardcore infill. I make it over 100 cubic meters, possibly as much as 140/50. Does it ever get water in it? Once its filled I think there are two methods for the foundations... * A reinforced raft (So if anything moves it all moves together). * A piled foundation (Extends foundation down to solid ground). Our site was flat but there was evidence of a pond years ago where we wanted our garage. Builder opted for piled foundations. Sorry not sure about the cost as some years ago now..

Welcome. We were living in Belgium when we purchased our plot. It already had planning permission but we wanted to build further back on the plot. Took us a year to get new permission. Made many trips over to meet architect and planners. Flights, car hire, hotels etc. Worth every bit of hassle when we got permission.

Some bits look similar to one of mine but there are differences.. The labels, the foot plate and number of holes on the jaws. I have another one with some aluminium frames.