Temp

https://metro.co.uk/2018/06/05/time-can-builders-start-work-uk-according-law-7606799/ Highlights.. What time can builders start work in the UK according to the law – and can they work on Sundays? The times at which noisy work is allowed differs across the country – because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 gave Local Authorities the power to control noise from construction sites and similar areas. Whilst these do vary across different councils, the standard hours during which noisy work is acceptable is usually between 8am and 6pm, Monday to Friday. On Saturdays, builders are generally allowed to work between 8am and 1pm, but this can vary slightly with different councils. On Sundays and on Bank Holidays, there is less specific guidance on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are good guidelines, it is worth checking your Local Authority website as they can alter slightly, e.g. Cheshire East which states its Saturday hours are 9am to 2pm.

+1 Much thicker.

Personally I doubt switching to a new LPG boiler will save a lot. Think I would spend money on insulation.

+1 Just check the 7N blocks are recommended for below DPC. Most but not all are.

+1 to all that. Only oak posts stand much chance of lasting 25 years in the ground. We have pressure treated 100mm fence posts rotting after just 8 years. If you need to cut any pressure treated wood to length, try and leave the cut ends dipped in a bucket of creosote or similar wood preserver over night.

Edit: Actually the way the die is adjusted is probably different at that size.

If you've cut threads before you may already know how to do it but.. Clean up the outside of the pipe to remove any old paint or cement etc first. Adjust the die. Most die have a gap for a tapered screw so they can be adjusted looser/tighter. I would open it up to make the initial cut easier and do it in several passes tightening the die a little each time. Lubricate the die with oil. Back off the die regularly. Eg half a turn forward, quarter turn back, repeat. Perhaps even smaller steps if it gets tight. Looks like you might have to go slow anyway due to the proximity of the walls. Clean oil off. Perhaps paint marks on the pipe and floor first so you can clearly see if its turning.

Sorry no, its was quite a few years ago.

The figure to look at is the lumen output. Around 400-500 lumen is equivalent to a 50W GU10. I usually go for Warm White versions.

Conventional deep recessed downlights are rather out dated now. There are now quite a few surface mounted or shallow recessed LED lights worth looking at. Stuff like this although not for a sloping ceiling.. https://hartingtonheath.com/product/i-lumos-led-6-watt-round-recessed-lighting-panel-ultraslim-ceiling-light/?gclid=CjwKCAjwoNuGBhA8EiwAFxomAz3-cAj4jHcGoAhA-ry4HI2EjMIkKsKUW7BRJ22doJDE3kBz7A0nVhoCPKkQAvD_BwE

My guess is you don't have a lot of height to spare as making the roof thicker reduces the pitch due to the window. Is it steep enough for the tiles? I'm thinking build it as a cold roof with all the insulation between the rafters. Fully fill them. Use a vapour permeable membrane that is approved for use in contact with the insulation (think kingspan do one). Then counter battens and tile battens. Ventilation needed under the tiles but not under the membrane if its vapour permeable. Put a vapour barrier on the inside.

Insulation above rafters makes it warm roof. You can have some insulation between them as well but care is needed because this effectively "moves" the rafters nearer the cold side. I think the rule of thumb is no more than 1/3rd of the insulation between the rafters and 2/3rds above? For safety some sort of condensation risk analysis should be done.

+1 We filled in the web both sides and used similar joist hangers with long tail that wrapped over the top of the I beam and were nailed both sides.

The probes are typically 10k Ohm NTC resistors or similar which are pretty cheap. Around £1.50 to £3 on ebay so could afford to put half a dozen in the floor as well as a tube/pipe/pocket.

That looks like a pretty good price for that height.

https://3fatpigs.co.uk/30-cherry-laurel-2-3ft-multi-stemmed-prunus-rotundifolia-evergreen-hedging/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&gclid=CjwKCAjwoNuGBhA8EiwAFxomAxoliu-A05hqwG4OF2X2hj52kKLEpJJXo9M1O6CnACe6jDdH_6LP-BoC9zwQAvD_BwE 30 bare rooted 2-3ft plants under £100. Can't plant until winter though.

Scroll down here to "diagonal rafter bracing" and the diagrams.. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-9-bracing-for-trussed-rafter-roofs/ and little bit about long braces in here from 11:36..

and.. https://khub.net/web/planningadvisoryservicepas/forum/-/message_boards/message/6232263 So a simple FOI request might be possible.

I just love the internet sometimes... Google found... https://www.folkestone-hythe.gov.uk/article/798/Is-pre-application-advice-made-public- Article continues listing exceptions. So essentially it is possible to find out if anyone has had pre-application advice on a plot you are interested in. That might be faster than asking for pre-application advice yourself so worth doing both.

When we applied for PP back in 2005 there was more than one "file" on a site. In our case there were at least three. There was the online data, a public paper file you could ask to see, and the planners own files which were a grey area. First time I went to the planning office I was able to see the public paper file just by asking to see it. Receptionist just went and got it and I was able to use their photocopier. Second time I tried to see a public paper file it was a pain. Visitors were no longer allowed into the planning office and I had to make an appointment to see it in the "visitors centre" where there were no facilities. Still it was interesting because there was stuff in the file that wasn't on the online database. Mostly letters to/from the previous owner. Later when we needed to hire a planning consultant it turned out he had been involved with the plot before. He had a letter from the planners that was very helpful to us and wasn't in either of the public files. When I showed it to the planning officer he asked where I had got it from and then went to get his boss. They rolled over pretty soon after that. How much of this "selective publication" still goes on I don't know .

Ah sorry class q can't be used in an AONB.

Whats the building been used for? Any chance it was in agricultural use prior to 2013 and not used for storage by the utility co? Eg did they rent it out to a farmer or ? I'm just wondering if its in good enough condition to qualify for class Q.. https://www.newbritishdesign.com/post/a-guide-to-class-q-barn-conversions-to-create-your-new-house-in-the-countryside

I think I would edit this picture to insert your house to scale.

+1 Does the insulation have to be at rafter level? or can it be on the floor of your attic at joist level? Eg are there rooms in the roof?

I've used Go Glass in Cambridge for frameless showers, mirrors and odd bit of glass. https://goglass.co.uk/interiors/balconies-balustrades/ Perhaps consider low iron glass as its less green.