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Google found ... https://www.brocross.com/Bricks/Penmorfa/Pages/initials.htm W D C : W D Cornish https://www.brocross.com/Bricks/Penmorfa/Pages/england5b.htm "W. D. Cornish, Enfield. Middx. started around 1990's along with several other brickworks in the area. His Bush Hill Park works flourished until the price of land increased & his works was the last to close in the Enfield area in 1936. Info by Martyn Fretwell and photographed in a Kent reclamation yard."

We have a mixture of wet ufh systems in our house. Some rooms are stone over ufh in screed. Others are Engineered wood on battens with UFH in a foil covered insulation system between. I quite like the faster response time of the latter.

Sorry if this is obvious but you still need the insulation below the floor. I've not used them but there are systems like this.. https://ambienteufh.co.uk/tiling-over-underfloor-heating/

Amenity Land is normally has some visual importance and contribution to the character of the area so the planners may take an interest in any change of use. They may consider that its current use is just to look nice even if it doesn't actually look that nice. There will be patches of amenity land in cities and grazing animals there wouldn't go down well.

Bit of googling suggests there is no consensus either way on adding roof lights to an existing extension. Some roof light companies say you need PP if it projects more than 150mm above the existing roof. Others say adding a pitched roof lantern is like building a new extension with its own roof (eg ok as long as under 4m, less if near the site boundary).

I think it depends if you build the extension and rooflight at the same time... If you build them at the same time then I agree the max height rule for extension roofs would apply (eg the shape of the roof can be anything you like within the height restrictions). If the extension already exists and you are adding a roof light it appears to me that the extension does have an original roof so the 150mm rule applies. Nonsense I agree but that's how I read it. .

I don't recall being asked when or if we had started already. They just wanted to know when we wanted the policy to start. I suppose there might have been something in the small print but i never looked.

If they forget, I think its possible to cut your own holes and add the drainage vents.

+1 No 50mm gap needed if its a permeable membrane. However you should not fit so much insulation that the membrane is pushed against the underside of the tile battens. Hence the counter batten to raise them off the roof. The reason is that any water blown under the tiles needs to run down the membrane. If you trap the membrane dirt can seal it to the batten causing water to pool above the batten causing it to rot. If the roof is already battened/tiled then you should try to let the membrane drape but don't need the full 50mm ventilation.

Leave the plug in. Relative has an empty house. With the plug in the traps seem to stay full for quite long periods.

Sorry I can't really remember why they say three courses. Might be due to the lintel deflecting or might be to do with preventing it twisting? Hopefully someone else will know.

This is my interpretation... uPVC windows normally have drainage holes. Sometimes these come out of the bottom of the frame like this.. If your Door/Window sits directly on a concrete sill that drainage would be blocked. So I think when "no sill" is specified they have to put vents/drainage on the face of the window like this..

It does seem unfair that the Council can continue to collect rates until the Council determines a planning grant. What incentive do they have to hurry? I think a nice letter to your MP might be in order. Ask him to urge the Council to use any discretionary powers they have to grant an exemption for flood damaged properties that need to be demolished because repair is not economically viable.

As I understand it before 2013 you could claim an exemption if the property was uninhabitable but think they did away with that to encourage empty properties to be brought back into use.

If you have trouble finding your councils exemption page tell us the name of your council.

Try your Insurance Co to see if they will pay it. Have a look at the Council Tax exemptions on your councils web site. Some say they will grant an exemption if your Insurance Company won't pay Council Tax. https://www.cheshireeast.gov.uk/council_tax/reductions/special-circumstances-council-tax-reductions-section-13a.aspx Other councils have different rules https://www.richmondshire.gov.uk/environmental-health/flooding/flood-damage-council-tax/

Unfortunately "Original roof" refers to the height of the roof of your extension before the lantern/velux is added, not the original pitched roof of the house. Aside: Many ordinary flat Velux windows are >150mm tall but they don't need planning permission because they are partly recessed into the roof (eg by the depth of the tiles and battens that are removed). Obviously that doesn't help you here.

Google suggests the Black MDPE is UV stabilised but not the blue. Its pretty strong stuff but is 20mm big enough? I'm thinking about the diameter of the "knot" connecting draw rope to the Fibre? I've normally used 3/8" rope to pull electrical cable. Double that back on itself and bind with tape. That would be more than 20mm. Perhaps smaller draw rope is ok?

My wife once told me that if you have help to fund a court case the people paying may also be liable for the other parties costs if you loose. Not sure if that's right but might be best to make any donations anonymous?

Apparently there is a Supreme Court but here it says... https://www.supremecourt.uk/about/role-of-the-supreme-court.html Elsewhere it says

That was from the High Court so think that might be end of the road.

I think metal lintels are meant to have more than one brick course above them? Minimum of 3 courses I think.

Most stats use something like a 10K Ohm NTC probe. These are readily available for a £few so you don't really need to spend silly money for the ones from the UFH company if you decide to buy spares.

Some 40 years ago when I was kid I got a summer job with an electrician helping to wire up a 6-8 storey office block in Staines. All the floors were identical so we dropped off the same number of switches and sockets on each floor at the start of the day. Finished fitting them on one floor and had one light switch left over. Took us hours to find out where the missing one should go because the plasterer had totally filled the back box and polished it over. No plans and no mobile phones to take pictures back then so we had to go up and down and rely on memory to try and figure out where the missing one should go. Once we had narrowed it down to a wall I volunteered to go down the fire escape get his metal detector to find it. Don't bother he said and proceeded to stab the wall with a screwdriver over an area of about two square meters while muttering under his breath.. "That will teach the F&%$£s.. " Learned a lot that week... Always leave about three feet of wire sticking out after first fix - later you can cut it to a more suitable length, collect the cuttings and burn off the plastic for the copper. How to avoid having to carry massive rolls of left over carpet down 6 floors - just make sure the car park below is empty before you push it off the fire escape. Always check an electricians references - at another site the recently hired electrician just failed to turn up one day. They eventually found he had just been pushing short lengths of wire into the conduit and fitting sockets. It was the same at the distribution board, if you pulled a wire just a short length came out!

I got a copy of my house plans and marked them up with switch/dimmer and socket positions for the electrician. You can also write on the walls.