Temp

Here is a case that went the other way (they deemed it NOT to be a side extension). However see the footnote.. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Appeal-decision-106.php

Just for reference here is a relevant Appeal Decision here supports the planners rejection in relation to it being a side extension of the dining room. In this case the projection was a small store they planned to demolish... https://modgov.lbbd.gov.uk/Internet/documents/s119272/Appeal decision - 23 Mill Lane.pdf

There are some rated for 750C briefly and 650C continuously.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/up-to-750 eg.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/heat-resistant-paints/8017-rust-oleum-heat-resistant-paint-750°c-aerosols.html Even 800C for short periods.. https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/metal-primers-and-undercoats/1861-international-interplate-937.html but why?

Yes we have no cracks anywhere except where the screed in two rooms meet at a doorway.

Yes and possibly the start capacitor C1. A5 has live and neutral so a short there would cause overcurrent. If A5 or C1 is faulty the compressor motor may not start start running and that can cause low torque and over current.

+1 Don't change it until that's been shown to be the problem. I was just looking to see if it was even possible.

Remember to check the VAT rules.. Scenario 1: The annex would be standard rated unless it can be seperately occupied to the bungalow (eg the planners accept it can be sold off as a separate dwelling). Demolishing the bungalow under a separate planning application. The guidance says all existing buildings on the site should be removed to be eligible for zero rating. Now I've heard they might allow a garage to be retained but yours would be a habitable building. They might argue the bungalow is just a big annex to the existing dwelling above the garage. Scenario 2: This appears to be eligible for zero rating.

@Jamier Have you seen this.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/158/additional_storeysextending_upwards

We can't answer that. If its using a resistance heater instead of the compressor it might work but cost you three times as much to run. Might also wear out the resistance heater faster.

Bit of googling finds Copeland compressor are a thing.... https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/copeland-compressor-157-c.asp Might be able to find someone who can check/service it? This place appears to supply a refurbished compressors... https://www.acescomp.co.uk/compressor-overhaul-and-remanufacture/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAk4aOBhCTARIsAFWFP9GSGz6q8R7CzEfbEseiJXAhY1eTq0rwEgsh9DIqC9rDy9Nx3lojSrcaAtL4EALw_wcB Including some copeland https://www.acescomp.co.uk/stock-compressors/#tab-id-4 Is there a part number on yours?

We're they able to cite case law for that or is it just their opinion?

You will have to persuade them. Perhaps issue them a "certificate" as mentioned in VAT 708. HMRC don't require one but it sometimes help convince trades.

VAT708 isn't an easy read but para 2.2 says.. So an Electrician or Plumber doing "supply and fit" should zero rate both labour and materials. In your case a lot depends on the invoice.. 1) If its just for screed then it should include VAT as that's materials and you can reclaim it. 2) If it covers screed, pump and operator then the whole lot should be zero rated to you. As per para 2.2. 3) if two invoices (screed, pump & labour) then screed would be inc VAT. Pump and labour zero rated. 4) If three invoices (Screed, Pump hire and labour). The one for screed shoud include VAT which you reclaim. The labour should be zero rated. Pump hire should be standard rated and not reclaimable.

+1 Good one is to go into the kitchen and pretend every light in the house is off. Then walk to each of the bedrooms turning on imaginary lights ahead of you and off behind you. That will show where you need two way switching. Perhaps repeat for other routes around the house. We have some nice wall mounted outside lights triggerd by a PIR sensor near the front door. The PIR has a switch indoors that can be used to put it in different "modes" (ON, ON at dusk, OFF, ON until daylight, ON for 30 seconds when triggered etc). Right pain as we can never remember the "morse code" needed to switch modes. Would prefer something easier, perhaps even a simple display telling you. Might make one. Wish I had also put a PIR or manual switch by the back door connected to the same lights. A light on a PIR where you park the car is also useful. Light for the house name plate helps delivery drivers (ours is on a daylight sensor).

Worn out compressor can cause it according to all the online guides.

Agreed. But if you don't have that installed...

For extending WiFi coverage I reckon its best to send it over the mains to a plug in WiFi AP. If you use WiFi to extend WiFi you're using up the available spectrum that could be used for more access points. At least that's my thinking.

Are you sure.. https://www.globalpetrolprices.com/United-Kingdom/lpg_prices/ 69.3p/L As for running cost comparison.. the only Web site I know that does a half decent job is here... https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ Scroll down to the table and see "Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency)"

Perhaps build a motorbike ground anchor or two into the slab somewhere or even just tie a knot in the end of some chain and put that in the concrete.

Most of the issues I have are not so much with network cables but with coax and HDMI which are on the back of things like DVD players, Sat recievers etc. Power is another issue. We have a few mains adaptors in our cupboard for things like the network hub, game handset chargers , IR repeater etc. Its common to find the sockets are too close together to allow two adaptors side by side. Long (only 5m) HDMI leads also gave us some problems. Even now my TV sometimes refuses to recognise my Humax Sat receiver has been selected.

We have a repeater that receives the IR and sends it down wires into the cupboard where its rebroadcast.

Our plot was a field on clay. We scrapped the top layer off (about 6"?) and replaced it after construction. We also put in land drains. Fast forward 13 years and the clay is still an issue for the lawn. I reckon it would take an awful lot of topsoil to permanently improve the ground. Perhaps a foot or more as worms turn it over to quite a depth? My guess is they may offer you topsoil but before you rush to accept don't forget you may need to remove what you currently have to avoid raising ground levels.

I find they fog up after I get in so must be me changing the humidity that causes it. Google says.. "exhaled air is completely saturated with water – it contains the maximum amount of moisture, and is therefore has a relative humidity of 100%." Does that suggests if the glass is colder than exhaled breath you will always get condensation?

We have similar small cupboards either side of a chimney. One for the vacuum cleaner etc and one for the Sat receiver, x-box etc. Main issue is the difficulty of getting to the back of equipment as ours only has a front door.

If you haven't implemented that yet i wonder if you can still make another planning application despite the 30% rule? This must happen when people "change their minds" about what they want... For example lets suppose you apply for the rear extension and they add a condition saying you can't build it if the loft is converted. You can build the extension first because the loft hasn't been converted. Then later you can convert the loft relying on the original planning grant which has no such matching condition. I'm not sure what scope the planners have to stop this. I know its not easy for the planners to withdraw a previously approved grant. One to ask a planning consultant about.