Temp

+1 to @ProDave I would recommend your in-laws just buy the land from the neighbour so he's not involved in anything else. Last thing you want is him changing his mind at some awkward point or dropping down dead and a beneficiary turning up and deciding he wants a bigger share of the profit or 101 other ways it could go pear shaped. I think it would be hard to borrow any money needed with multiple parties involved.

Is it possible the neon is fooling the IR monitor or does it feel that hot to the touch?

Gosh I hate the text editor on the forum. It won't let me fix the bad formatting above. The missing reply to the above question says..

Google also found this but again Ive no experience of the provisions mentioned.. https://www.accountingweb.co.uk/any-answers/cgt-liability-for-armed-forces-personnel-without-o

Seek professional advice.. There is something called the Armed Forces Exemption but I'm not familiar with all the details. https://www.litrg.org.uk/tax-guides/savers-property-owners-and-other-tax-issues/capital-gains-tax/selling-your-home

And the admin costs of managing lots of small amounts woukd be high.

That's almost correct behaviour. When that happens the boiler is meant to temporarily shut off the burner to prevent overheating. But the boiler should already be doing that but in a different way. When the bypass opens the boiler return will get hotter, that will in turn cause the flow to get hotter. When it exceeds the max temperature set by the dial the boiler should turn its flame off temporarily. Instead for some reason its not doing that, it appears to be going into overheat and shuting down requiring a reset. The question is why is the normal mechanism not always working.

Sorry if you know this but.. Modulating Gas boilers can turn the flame power up and down to match demand when there are only small loads (eg just one UFH loop calling for heat). I don't think any consumer grade oil boilers can do this. The flame is either fully ON or OFF. The "temperature dial" on an oil boiler (at least on my Grant) appears to set the maximum flow temperature during cycling. So when there is a small load what happens is... 1) The load stat calls for heat. 2) Boiler fires up the burner and pump. 3) Output and return temperatures start rising. 4) When the flow reaches the temperature set on the dial it (should) switch off the flame but leave the pump running. 5) Flow temperature starts falling. 6) At some point the boiler decides to fire up the flame again. Go to 3). 7) Only when the all loads are satisfied does the boiler turn itself and the pump off. If you monitor the flow temperature over time you can see it rising and falling as it cycles around 3-6. Ideally these cycles should not be too fast because that's like driving a car in stop-start traffic. On the other hand If/when you have a heavy load it is possible the burner may run for long periods without the temperature ever quite reaching that set on the boiler dial. In this situation the boiler fires up when called by the load and keeps burning until the load is satisfied (eg no cycling). This is the most efficient mode but it can take some work to make it operate like this. The load has to be big enough, the pump speed just right etc. So something is causing your boiler to overheat when its cycling. Ideally get an engineer to check it really is overheating not a faulty over temperature sensor. I would check that when its cycling, and the flame goes off, the pump continues to run? Perhaps the pump is having problems starting when only the bypass is open? Could be tricky to diagnose. Turning down the dial on the boiler may help but its not ideal because it makes cycling more likely. More likely to occur when it need not. To answer the question above. I think increasing the burner power would most likely make things worse. It would reach the dial temperature sooner making cycling faster. Perhaps increase oportunities to overheat? We actually went the other way and fitted smaller jets which Grant say improves efficiency a few%. This allowed me to eliminate cycling when feeding our thermal store but that's a long story that wouldn't apply to your set up. I wouldn't change the jets yet.

I'd be looking at the biggest you can. Probably a 4kW array unless you already have a three phase supply to the house. That's about 16 x 250W panels taking 26sqm. I can't really comment on prices as I'm out of date but have seen DIY kits advertised for around £1500. More if you want installation. I think all the subsidised feed in tarrifs have ended replaced by some companies offering a feed in rate. I think it pays to use as much as you can yourself. Perhaps fit a kit that diverts excess generation to an immersion heater element if your DHW tank is below max temperature. Think some here have a battery.

We also have a Grant Oil fired boiler although ours heats a TS which feeds UFH so it behaves differently. I don't think your boiler should shut down totally in the situation you describe. It should just cycle. Eg it should turn the flame off leaving the pump running until the flow temperature falls again. I wonder if the pump is turning off when it shouldnt? You could try turning down the dial on the boiler. This will make it cycle more but might avoid it getting so hot it locks up. Don't turn it down too much, you want it as high as possible without lockup occuring.

You're probably correct. I've only seen the normal ones.

As I recall these dimmers have a mechanical push on/push off so can't be a spike in the mains causing it. My guess is this circuit has been connected to the switched live in the hall rather than permanant live? Something like that.

We have 80mm insulation and wish we fitted more. If building again I would go for 150mm or more. On a retrofit 100mm might be OK if there are height issues but not ideal. Some BCO insist on a structural concrete slab under everything but if you have well compacted hardcore I don't think its needed Ufh in screed Poly sheet to retain water in screed Insulation DPM Sand blind 150mm well compacted hardcore. If the hardcore is very coarse I'd suggest putting a finer layer on top and compact again.

Yeah I must get around to rewiring ours.

+1 Should be in parallel with the lights.

We have an outdoor one that does this sort of thing. We just leave it in PIR mode as its a pain to remember the magic sequence of flicking the switch to change modes.

Slightly OT.. I recently built a small amp with my son using one of these boards... https://www.tinyosshop.com/tsa7800b At normal listening volumes the sound quality is pretty impressive. Well at least I was impressed. The specs suggest a lot of distortion exists at max power but that's way more than he will use it for. We went with that board so my son could play around with DSP. The board supports the SigmaStudio app for PC allowing him to experiment with digital filters. It's got Bluetooth and stereo phono input and 2+1 outputs. Currently connected to some old Creative speakers from a retired PC sound system and a bass speaker he designed himself on work experience last summer. We used a totally inappropriate switch mode power supply but seems to work fine. He's studying Acoustical Engineering and currently trying to find an industrial placement where he can do some design/DSP/Python/C++. Most of the companies offering places seem to specialise in Environmental monitoring.

Thing is I'm not always there when a delivery occurs. I've heard it's possible to put say 900L into a customers tank then put the nozzle into the tankers filler and pump 100L through the meter back into the tanker. Generating a receipt for the 1000L ordered.. Then at the end of the day the driver put 100L or whatever he's creamed off into his own tank on the way back to the yard. Perhaps it can'/tdoesn't happen but I'd like more confidence.

Problem is most modern plastic tanks are bunded so not easy to measure the internal dimensions. This also relies on you knowing the starting level. I dipped my tank 10 days ago and calculated 1500 l would just fit in. 1500L delivered today. Dipped tank again and surprised at how low the level is. Just annoys me I can't measure it more accurately.

Yes an integrating flow meter. I was thinking of something mounted in a tube that fits into the neck of the tank so there is still a pipe for the oilman to stick his nozzle into.

Several times over the past 13 years I've been suspicious that we've not had all the heating oil we paid for actually delivered. Does anyone sell a gauge that fits in the neck of the tank that measures whats actually put in the tank?

Is your architect proposing to use a Quantity Surveyor to work out the likely build cost? If so then it might be reasonable to charge something to provide the information and support the QS needs. But the QS isn't cheap and if this is done at all its normally done later when more detailed drawings have been made.

https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/news/vat-reclaim-its-your-money/

Another thread on this here..

Another appeal allowed where the rear projection of the dining room was only 0.3m. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Appeal-Decision-157.php