Temp

I think a sketch is needed. As I understand it between the "fire" and the beam you have a block (or pumice liner?) and a cavity? If that's over 200mm I don't think anything is needed. The top of the cavity will be sealed. Perhaps wrap the end in DPM?

Perhaps.. https://www.cncbuildingcontrol.gov.uk/faqs/calculate-size-soakaway-required-extension/

That includes trees, not sure about plants.

Perhaps I'm wrong but I calculated the crates needed at about £2500 after the VAT is reclaimed. Just over 100 crates at about £25 each. https://skyplastics.co.uk/polystorm-soakaway-crate-x-120-22-46-20-tonne-1000mm-x-500mm-x-400mm-c-w-clips-shear-connectors-7.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=11823408165&gbraid=0AAAAACepU-YY6R55dqvulcit98fUTrQ93&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2tHABhCiARIsANZzDWrXL3utZmoyuieDmmroFsJzj3egyX4nV9rKUkpDV7aYHLwJHst_RDUaAsp2EALw_wcB

What soil type do you have? Have you done a percolation test? That might show a smaller soakaway is needed.

Does the timber frame company require you to use a particular product for warranty purposes?

If you want to use that online store they sell the right stuff.... https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/search?keywords=Vapour+barrier

Not suitable. Breathable membranes are designed to allow water vapour to escape from the structure to help avoid condensation. Vapour barriers are designed to stop water vapour escaping into the structure and possibly causing condensation. Vapour barriers are normally a plastic sheet like material, not a felt/fiber like material.

There is a section in VAT 708 that covers things that allow a house to be built. See 3.3.4... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 In my case I had to move a water main. Presumably you would hire (hired) someone to cap the shaft? In which case their work should be zero rated to you. Same applies to all trades. Their labour and any materials they provide should (must) all be zero rated to you. You would only reclaim the VAT if you purchased materials and gave them to the company doing the work. Again their labour must be zero rated to you. I recommend that any time you are given a quote for work on the house check if the quote includes VAT. If it does ask them to issue a new quote removing the VAT because the work is being done on a hew house and they are zero rated. Some companies may need convincing so show them VAT 708 as that tells them what rate to charge you (0%). Any problems come back here and ask. You cannot reclaim VAT you paid in error from HMRC, you would have to go back to the company for the VAT and that's always harder after you've paid.

Remember the eaves overhang might make them closer.

Can you appeal deducting the cost of the non allowable parts?

I was following the story of a man with a Renault Zoe who wanted to break up the car for parts. The battery was leased but he couldn't get a dealer to remove it. So he claimed money via the court. They never responded to the court so he won his claim for £2k and requested a CCJ. Next stop for him is bailiffs to recover the money.

Sorry to hear this story. I was watching a program on the BBC about scammers this week and the program makers were listening in to calls between a scammer and a 90 year old victim. When the BBC team finally got through to the victim and explained they were from the BBC the victim asked if his daughter was with them. It turned out his daughter was a member of the program team ! Proof it can happen to anyone and he shouldn't feel too bad. I think I would live with it for awhile. The secret to many jobs is preparation and hard standings are no different. I haven't read the whole thread at its gone midnight but if they didn't do a good job of the prep I'm afraid it might break up with vehicles on it. The fibres in the concrete is good news but I'd still give it 6 months to see what happens before spending more on it. The Paving Expert website is good for details of the prep that should be done, hardcore, compacting etc.

Bit of googling... Selected quotes.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-46454844 From 2018.. "New homes 'crumbling due to weak mortar" "Under NHBC guidelines, mortar in most areas of the UK should be made of one part cement to 5.5 parts sand. In severe weather areas such as Coatbridge, there should be even more cement in the mix to make it stronger and more durable." "After 18 months of complaints, the NHBC bought back Mr Fascione's home at the market rate and he is living in alternative accommodation." "In some cases, customers have ultimately had their houses bought back by either the homebuilder or the NHBC. In others, it appears repairs have been made and compensation paid as part of a deal that involves the signing of a non-disclosure agreement or gagging clause." https://ww3.rics.org/uk/en/journals/built-environment-journal/weak-mortar.html?utm_source=chatgpt.com "The two blog posts by retired construction manager Phil Waller plus a third instalment provide a detailed technical analysis." "This suggests that the quality of the mortar used is not of the required industry, standard specifically BS EN 1996-1-1: 2005 + A1: 2012 Eurocode 6: Design of masonry structures. General rules for reinforced and unreinforced masonry structures, although that in turn refers to further standards such as BS EN 998-2: 2016." continues.

I drew mine by hand. Think I traced one of the other drawings in our planning application, probably the one showing the site plan or the level survey and added the existing trees and hedges then the new stuff. These days I'd use a general purpose CAD program, probably Fusion 360 because I already have that, but Sketchup or any of the others would work.

+1 Think the other sizes are.. 450mm Max depth 1.2m 600mm Max depth 3m 1050 mm if over 3m.

Silly question but why are you fitting wall plates? Will ceiling joists be resting on them or new rafters notched onto them? I think what you are doing might determine the best approach. If ceiling joist are going on top I would centre the wall plate on the wall. If rafters are being notched you really want them all to be identical so might be better for the outer edge of the wall plate to be in line.

A common mistake is to put the wall on the boundary forgetting about the eaves overhang or guttering. Make sure they start the wall in the right place. Don't wait until the wall is half up or they will never change it without a fight.

Had fun with our interlinked alarms. The electrician accidentally swapped two wires going upstairs. This appeared to mean two were running on their Batteries the whole time. After a few months they started chirping to tell us the batteries were low. Only realised something was wrong when new Duracell batteries also only lasted a few months.

Is that wall very long? I think walls over 11m(?) are meant to have an expansion gap in them.

I can't ever recall seeing a long radius T. Couldn't Google one. Go with @Conor suggestion.

We have a stick built roof with PIR between rafters. Builder had to cut hundreds of pieces to fit. Horrible task with unavoidable gaps. I'd never build that way again. Nothing wrong with PIR itself. I'd consider building a warm roof with PIR above rafters next time.

Not always possible but I think where the work can be divided into very different parts or phases I would look to quote and invoice for those tasks/stages. As long as that's clear at the outset. At least then you get a warning if your first invoice isn't paid before you go on to the next phase.

Officially they don't need a certificate but sometimes providing one helps convince them to zero rate.

We have 300L vented TS. Currently heated by an oil boiler. The hot in and DHW hot out are both near the top of the TS so I think when depleted and the boiler fires up you almost have hot water on demand. We've never run out of hot water and have high flow rate showers. The down sides are... Our store has an external plate heat exchanger , pumps and blending valves which all leak heat into the room its in. They aren't ideal for use with a heat pump. Our store is set to about 55C and feeds both DHW and CH so we would need a flow rate of >55C all the time. The CH/UFH doesn't need such a high flow rate in modern well designed houses and a lower flow temperature would help the COP so it's likely that a tank for DHW only would be better., or perhaps two tanks at different temperatures?