Temp

Our builder was a stickler for checking stuff like this. Never drilled, cut, ordered or built anything until he had actual thing that was going to fit in it. So things like windows weren't ordered until he built all the openings. Said he was fed up getting caught out.

It's not hard to find lots of people complaining about cooking smells from a neighbours vent blowing into their garden. That's possibly what they are worried about.

Possibly this 95mm high trap.. https://www.toolstation.com/espace-extra-flat-sink-trap-1-12/p87482?store=GL&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dt&pcrid=558023894541&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAjws8yUBhA1EiwAi_tpEfnXG6GJstI6NwBbPfklp4PhPGIUkfdPjlYFBIDbztDNQcc-XWffIhoCsC4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You can cite that rainwater harvesting is an accepted method of reducing nutrient emissions attributable to surface water.. https://www.waterwise.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/A-Review-of-Water-Neutrality-in-the-UK-03.02.2021-1-1.pdf

If your condition only applies to surface water I would make that absolutely clear in an application to discharge. Propose a soakaway on the grounds that this will be nutrient neutral as it maintains current surface water outflows to ground water. Ask them to consult Natural England.

In theory you might be able to do that but I would avoid at all costs. It wouldn't be a simple lead flashing. It would need to be a proper lead lined box gutter. The lead would be cut into their wall. The ends have to be designed to carry water away to a down pipe etc. They are prone to leaking if not designed and constructed right. Much simpler to go with the freestanding cantilevered car port that @ProDave suggested. It also allows you to call your house detached or semi rather than link detached or terrace when you come to sell.

If its not a retaining wall I don't think you need infill or piers. If it is a retaining wall how high is the earth its holding back? Are the piers going to be on one side of the wall or symmetrical/both sides? Just the ends? That's how it would normally be done. Some ideas..

Solution found in Havant.. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-hampshire-61490791

Water treatment plant might be a solution. Perhaps look at this development.. https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/news/explainer-what-is-nutrient-neutrality-and-why-is-it-stopping-housebuilding https://www.kentonline.co.uk/canterbury/news/why-thousands-of-new-kent-homes-could-now-get-green-light-252518/

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/news/nutrient-neutrality But doesn't provide any practical way out.

No lead at the bottom, Just a gutter to stop water splashing onto neighbours wall.

I think anyone doing a knock down and rebuild should perhaps propose the knock down as mitigation on the grounds the overall project will be neutral. Apply for the condition to be discharged and appeal if it isn't. If they refuse to process it Appeal for non determination. If you don't get a response to the application to discharge there is a "deemed consent" procedure. Will be important to follow the timescales allowed. Others with conditions.. There are a lot of rules the planners must follow when imposing conditions. Some make conditions unenforceable, such as those that cannot be met or require you to use third party land. If the problem can only be solved by the water companies I suspect you could argue that what the planners want you to do is unenforceable. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/use-of-planning-conditions Perhaps a group of you could get together and hire a planning consultant to try and find a common procedural way around it.

Normally they want tarmac from the edge of the road to your boundary. At least that's what we were asked to provide. The rest of our is gravel. Two disadvantages of gravel.. Leaf fall turns into compost in the gravel which grass grows on. I have to spray mine with weed killer. If you have a heavy delivery on a pallet the driver may drop it at the kerb as his pallet truck doesn't work on gravel. I've gotten around this by laying down a sheet or two of 3/4" WBP which is usually strong and smooth enough for a pallet truck.

I believe PCC (Professional Consultants Certificate) replaced Architects Certificates but they still get called that. https://professionalconsultantscertificate.com/news/the-difference-between-architects-professional-consultants-certifications/ Either way they are different to a warranty as warranty companies will point out.. https://titan-insurance.com/architects-certificate-or-structural-warranty-insurance/#:~:text=Moreover%2C the Architects Certificate only,on a much wider scope. https://www.architectscertificate.co.uk/news/what-is-architects-certificate/

OK that makes more sense. In the vid he suggests it has to be finished by 2023.

I watched this YouTube video today and in here he mentions that if you have already submitted you have to finish the build by June 2023 or comply. See from 1min in..

Think if it was me I would either dig everything out and do it properly or perhaps go for a composite decking instead. I wouldn't go for a wood deck.

I think if you do render it look for one approved for use below DPC?

You could give him an easement/right of access but I don't know if the land registry will let you limit it just to him personally. I think to be lawful they have to benefit land rather than people so a future owner could also use it. Any such easement would also preclude development that blocked access. One option might be just give him written permission to use it with conditions. You can put whatever clauses you like in there. Limit it just to him etc

I would say no. Yes foil can reflect signals but its very unlikely to make the overall signal strength any higher. To do that you need a carefully designed aerial (take a look at a TV aerial, they aren't just flat bits of foil). Even then they make the signal stronger in one direction but at the expense of a reduced signal strength in every other direction.

Ive had that issue with some cheap LED. They flicker badly especially when dimmed even on known good dimmers. Its particularly bad if you observe a fitting with multiple bulbs out of your peripheral vision which evolved to respond better to fast moving predators. It can stop when you look at the lamp directly with central vision. I found the problem went away when I switched to a well known brand like Philips.

Perhaps contact them to see if this is the right one for £83 https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/dishwashers/beko/wash-pump--heater/829630.htm

https://www.livescience.com/52978-electromagnetic-hypersensitivity-cause-unclear.html .

You mention several different things .. A slight tingling when touching metal switch plates or similar cab be due to a bad earth connection. First job I ever had age 16 was to go to a school with an electrician where teachers were reporting shocis from light switches. There was a faulty earth at the consumer unit. Instead of being connected to earth the earth wire was effectively floating. It runs in parallel with the live and can pick up quite a voltage. Some double insulated devices (these have no earth) can produce a similar effect. Some laptops for example. Foil backed insulation will definitly block phone reception. It can also block TV signals from reaching loft mounted aerials. As for the WiFi causing headache... Many people have made similar claims however if that was true they would be able to tell if a WiFi router was on or off under laboratory conditions. For example when they can't see if the lights are on. For many years a man called James Randi offered a $1m prize if someone could demonstrate that they could demonstrate such an ability. I'm not saying wifi is definitly harmless but I've not heard of anyone that can detect it via a headache or any other way under lab conditions.

We have wet UFH on both floors. It gets used upstairs. Great with stone floor in bathroom.