Temp

What happened to this thread when I wasn't looking.

Yes but unfortunately that's not evidence that you/previous owners and your/their tradesmen have actually used the route for 20 years. At best it suggests those other house owners might be able to establish their own rights but that doesn't directly give you any. You really need something more substantial like letters from the previous owner of your house saying they and their builder, gardner, window cleaner, painter etc all used the route to bring a wide variety of materials and equipment to your house for at least 20 years and nobody ever raised any objection or blocked the route. For the whole of that period.

What sort of proof? If its any good (dated photos?) I suggest you send copies to his solicitor. Say these area just examples of some of the evidence you would present that a right of way exists.

Given you have another route I would make things awkward for him. Keep writing letters to his solicitor to run up his bill as others like @redtophave suggested. I would also tell neighbours upstream what this neighbour has done. If by chance one of them has already got the legal position formally sorted then that might help you do the same. I suppose they might even be able to instruct your builder to act for them when transporting materials. Warn your builder he may have to use the harder route - that way he should take that into account when he quotes and not raise the price later if the neighbour objects.

Just wanted to make sure you understand that whatever this person or other neighbours used the route for doesn't set a precident or give you any rights. Its all down to what your deeds say or what other owners of your house used it for, how long and if you can prove it. The awkward neighbour is in the same position (unless he is the very end house which you say he isn't). It would be possible for anyone nearer the highway to try and stop him crossing their garden on the same grounds. But if he was to prove he had a right in court that wouldn't necessarily give you any rights. The only exception to the above might be if a court was to decide this was actually a public highway or similar.

Yes you can do that.. Twin and Earth from CU (or previous on radial) to S1. 3 Core and Earth (Two switched lives a Neutral and Earth) from S1 to S2. Twin and Earth from S2 to the light. Twin and Earth from S1 to another light elsewhere. You can't go from S2 to another light with this set up as it only has switched lives. But if S2 is upstairs that wouldn't be a great idea anyway. Better to have one lighting circuit for each floor.

I'm quite surprised it has that much effect. If you have any left might be worth double checking that's the real cause not a batch issue?

OK so I asked the HMRC via their forum. My real name is Colin Watters. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/6dae6dbd-96f1-ec11-b5cf-00155d3bb152 Got answer.. Section 3 is mostly about the qualifying building.

https://toughenedglasssystems.co.uk/product/glass-juliet-balconies/ About £350 each +vat for 13.5mm nearest standard size. Never used them though. Now I think about it... does your quote include the fixings? They can be surprisingly expensive.

It's interesting that if you pay your builder to fill in the holes that were dug for a Site Investigation or percolation test then his work would almost certainly be zero rated 🙂 Not that this would really save anything.

Previous relevant thread.. VAT 708 has this bit.. That implies "site investigation" should be zero rated if you do already have planning permission.

Ideally you should get proper calculations done. But you only have one block above the window and you're probably going to be removing it to get the lintel in. So I'd replace that block with a lintel and a course of bricks. Propose a lintel depth that avoids cutting bricks or extra thick mortar. See if BC ask for calculations. The length of the lintel should be at least 300mm (2×150mm) longer than the opening. Round it up to next available length or perhaps the nearest whole or half block. Whatever is easier/available.

+1 to what @joe90said. You don't normally need planning permission as long at the windows are of similar appearance but that's a bit open to interpretation. If you are keeping the same basic style as other windows I would just do it and if the planners kick off submit a retrospective application. For Building Control I would find someone to do the brick work and then get a Fensa approved installer to supply and fit as @joe90 said. They should do the paperwork. It's safer to get the window co to measure up after the brickwork is done but if the lead time is long you may not want to do that. In which case keep a close eye on the bricklayers make sure they are aware they need to get close to a specific height. Design it to ensure it's a whole number of bricks/blocks courses. Mark the wall with a line etc. Usually windows are made a few mm smaller than the opening. When you order make sure you check if they want the dimensions of the opening or the actual window. Sorry if you know all this.

Can you afford more insulation? Say 120-150 mm. If tiling beware that extra prep maybe required for Anhydrite Liquid screeds. They can form a weak layer/skin on top called laitance that is harder to bond to. This may have to be sanded off.

+1 Which means he admits it is used pretty regularly at the moment. If you keep the happy I'm sure other neighbours would write you a letter explaining their knowledge of how it's been used if you needed it.

Don't think that can be right or you couldn't have a lawn that close. Think that might be referring to a soakaway. Those are meant to be 5m away.

Oh and if you plan any flower beds or lawn avoid putting hadcore there as it can be difficult to remove later.

Yeah we laid a MOT "road". In our case the site was on a slight slope and clay soil. I would actually dig it out as you would for a driveway base or perhaps a bit deeper to allow another layer of MOT to be added before the final surface at the end. That's because we had quite a bit of soil migrate onto the MOT during construction. Beware MOT type 1 is not guaranteed to be water permeable. Ours was crushed limestone and the dust on it set up like concrete. I think you need MOT type 3 (?) If you want/need it to be permeable to meet a planning condition.

I would say something before the annoying neighbour winds them up. Perhaps just have a chat to let them know you are going to do some building work and will try not to block the path. Not planning to drive lorries down it or anything like that. Hope to keep any noise to a minimum etc No need to mention the letter.

Some guidance here.. https://civilweb-spreadsheets.com/drainage-design-spreadsheets/soakaway-size-calculator-spreadsheet/soakaway-distance-from-house/ Says 5m from house and 10m from other soakaways unless made bigger.

It's not clear to me that he is legally wrong, mortally yes. You would have to prove that you have a right of access over the land and unless it says in the deeds what you can do then it might be more restrictive than you think.

https://www.showertraysuk.co.uk/elements-low-profile-shower-trays-stone-resins-rectangle-1800mmx900mm-flat-top Clear ? 🙂 Edit: I believe that means the base can range from +7 to +13mm. The top can range from +3 to +9mm. Or perhaps its .. Base -3 to +13mm, Top -3 to +9mm

Oh wow. How long have they had this? I see there are a few questions about self build vat.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

As its critical buy the tray first and measure it. The tolerance can vary quite a bit.

Is there anything in the deeds about the right of way? What's the exact wording? If nothing in the deeds there is a bunch of info here explaining how you might have a right of way/easement. https://www.landregistry-titledeeds.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/information/private-rights-of-way.asp I wonder what other neighbours think about this.