Temp

Either that or water bills. Part of your existing bill is to remove "other things" from sewage. Why not nutrients? Edit: I know it's technically difficult to remove rather than mitigate so initially it might just be a means of collecting money to fund mitigation.

I think Liz Truss is going to have much bigger issues to worry about. I think the nutrient issue could be sorted by the CIL.

We had india stone onto mortar and they didn't stick well in places. I'm going to have to use a wire brush in a drill to abraded the mortar down enough to get another layer under those that need refixing. I'm probably going to try BAL External Priming Slurry Bond.

If you have the budget there are companies that make steels/lintels any shape you want. They also cut bricks to make slips and supply the lintels with them ready fitted. We have two windows that needed lintels shaped like this.. _n_ and got them made that way. You can't see any exposed steel anywhere.

We get about the same. Mostly it's fine. Before our kids left for university they were xbox users and that would occasionally impact someone streaming a movie. Now they are away both of us can stream standard definition video at the same time without issues. For example my wife might be watching something on iplayer or similar while I'm watching F1 live. Buffering is rare and probably not be due to our connection rate. Overall I think I would call 30 Mbit "acceptable". I probably wouldn't pay more for it to be say 50 Mbit. If you are moving ISP I would consider getting a portable email address. I regret using one from my ISP as it makes moving ISP for a better deal harder.

1) How big and complicated is the roof? It wouldn't be expensive to get a Structural Engineer to just specify the dimensions of the rafters for a conventional pitched roof, fair bit more if the roof needs to be designed due to its size, shape and complexity. 2) If the sewer is far enough away that a build over agreement isn't required I would submit a letter stating that fact and attach a site plan and perhaps a copy of the water authority. 3) You might not need an EPC but you will probably have to provide some evidence it will comply with the relevant bits of Part L. Wall construction and U-value calculations probably. Window details. What drawings did you provide with you Building Control Application? Was it a full Application or just a Building Notice?

Sure glad I got mine filled early.

I see Heating Oil has shot back up over the past two weeks. Boiler juice chart for England now says its back over £1/L. In Northern Island its up 25% in three weeks.

If you want to win in court you have to give them "opportunity to rectify". That normally means writing to them recorded delivery at their registered address (I'd hit every address you can find) giving them a date to sort it by. Perhaps two weeks. Otherwise a claim might get thrown out. I would do some research online about what you need to do to satisfy a court before you get any work done.

Doesn't that layout make one end of the room hotter than the other?

As you are trade hmrc might want income tax rather than CGT? Eg if they think you are making a living as a property developer. Might need to seek advice. If you decide to rent out the other house beware that you might have to repay the VAT. A house built for sale is treated differently to one built and rented out. There are ways around this but people have been caught out.

Think ours was just a paragraph saying access to the highway would be in same position as existing field gate. Think there was also a paragraph about access to shops and public services public eg doctors surgery available in next village, and primary school with spaces in another. Shops in a third. No known problems with traffic on local roads. There was one bus a week from the other side of the village which allowed us to say there was a bus service but I think that stopped before we finished building it.

Is it a single or two story extension? What's in it? If it was say a single story extension with just a kitchen in it I would try arguing their extension doesn't have any habitable rooms in it and all the habitable rooms such as the living room and bedrooms are in the main part of the house over 12m away(if they are).

We have our mvhr system up fairly high. We regularly dry washing on a rack in the main bathroom which doesn't need/have a seperate extractor fan. I doubt it would be high enough to move heat around the building though. I did find this document with some info on testing a pair of boreholes. Gives figures for the temperature uplift and power extracted but I've no idea if they are typical.. ground_loops_testing_report.PDF

Many councils have a "space around dwellings "policy. Typically they require a minimum distance between walls with facing windows into habitable rooms eg between the backs of two houses. Its to prevent you looking into each others bedroom window's or something like that. Think its normally 21/22m where they both have windows or 12/13m where one has windows and the other has a blank wall.

Opinions differ but some say you can put insulation above and between on a warm roof provided you get a condensation risk analysis done. As I recall the rule of thumb is no more than 1/3rd of the insulation between the rafters, the rest above. So if the spec is 170mm you might be able to change that to say 60mm between the rafters and 120mm above. The alternative is to switch to a ventilated cold roof and put all the insulation between the rafters. On a porch it might be better to run the rafters side to side so you can have vents under the eaves both sides. If you run them front to back you really should have vents at the front and back where the flashing will be. That is possible but complicates the flashing. I guess you can't reduce ceiling height?

It's crazy how hmrc complain when you let them keep your money interest free for a few years.

Sorry for the poor quality sketch but my understanding is that mvhr heat exchangers work something like this.. To make much difference the incoming air would have to be preheated so that the 18C incoming air is hotter. But if it goes over 20C the heat exchanger will work in reverse heating the outgoing air. Am I missing something?

I always sell my house for the market value, I've never been tempted to sell one for the price I paid for it 🙂

I tried both the "easy" mode and the "AP" mode on both plugs but couldn't add them untilI I paused NordVPN. Once I did they both added themselves OK. One other thing I don't understand Is the network connection check feature. It requires both the smart plug and the computer/tablet running the app to be connected to the same WiFi Access Point. Not sure why the Smart plug can't just send the data to the app like it does energy consumption data. Perhaps for security reasons?

Not all energy companies are covered by the cap.. https://www.edp24.co.uk/news/green-energy-suppliers-exempt-from-price-cap-9238004

Tip: I couldn't get the Gosund app set up the plugs until I turned off my VPN. Once set up they seem to work with the VPN back on.

I meant trusting a Chinese cloud. I've literally just taken delivery of two of their plugs. The gosund app looks like it might be a badged version of Smart Life but it's 23:46 and I've driven 6 hours and drunk two bottles of Doombar 🙂

Think I might live dangerously for awhile. Then if I fancy another project I've seen suggestions to flash them with Tasmota but I've not looked at what's involved.

Reopening this thread.. There are now numerous cheap smart plugs on Amazon from around £6 each. I'm looking for a set to do energy monitoring but the few I've looked at seem to come with proprietary apps that seem incapable of adding up the power used/being used from multiple appliances. They only display seperate graphs for each according to reviews. In one case someone complained the usage data was only logged when the phone running the app was available to collect it. Eg not when they went to work! When they returned home the usage data wasn't updated and appeard to be lost. Is there a make that works with Alexa, and has an Android App that you would recommend? I'm not really looking for another "project" so ideally fairly simple to set up. I don't have an existing home automation system just Alexa. Edit: I suppose it would be cool if there was also a clamp on smart meter in the same range so I can see the difference between what the smart plugs are reporting and what the whole house consumption is at the meter.