ragg987

Used this in my last house, sons were too "enthusiastic" with toilet paper. Messy job but did the trick. Not too expensive from Screwfix.

Some form of OCD behavior, perhaps. "Clean power" obsession. Light will reflect off the screen onto walls and ceiling and reflect back to screen, giving a washed-out appearance. Not talking about 4k / UHD, but HDR. Projectors are a compromise for the very large dynamic range even in a dark room (made worse when light gets reflected back from your white walls!). This is where your large flat-panel TV will beat the projector.

@j_s have a look here if not already done so.

This is a *topic* for me (gotta have an outlet!), in our new house i have a dedicated cinema and audio room in the basement that is optimised to reduce room modes, sound-proofed (room-within-a-room) and sitting on a floating floor. Also dedicated 40A mains supply with 15A sockets in a spur arrangement. And adding acoustics treatment over time. In a lounge it is about balancing the purposes, the equipment is only a small part and in reality the easy part as you pay the money, plug it in and it works. Some factors that move you from "having equipment" to "cinema experience", roughly in order of importance: room dimensions and shape - lot of info and calculators around, look at Cardas ratio. I leaned heavily on this research http://www.acoustics.salford.ac.uk/acoustics_info/room_sizing/?content=best wall / floor / ceiling materials. e.g. hard (concrete, brick) or resilient (e.g. board) light control - for proper cinema experience you need to block out light, we used cassette blackout blinds in a regular window in our previous lounge, work very well acoustic treatment in room - e.g. to control bass and reduce or scatter reflections. Do not cover all surfaces, you will kill all the high frequencies. E.g. some rugs over a wooden floor, drapes at first reflection points, soft furniture, bookcases. Bass traps are a big help but the WAF is lowest here. Not used these but higher WAF? https://www.gikacoustics.com/?product_cat=acoustic-art-panels&s=&post_type=product acoustic isolation of the room? big topic and expensive to do properly. or get headphones. if using a projector an electric drop-down screen is best BUT, if you want 4k and HDR then most projectors are no good as they are not bright enough for the higher contrast possible with HDR. Unless you spend mega-bucks on 4k laser projectors. I have settled for 1080p (HD) on my 92" (diagonal) screen and happy with it. Your 4m wide screen will mean you need a much brighter projector, will be more of a challenge for HDR. speaker placement is going to be a compromise. for good audio you need them clear of walls but they become very obtrusive seating position - against a wall is worst for audio, in the open space is much better - same compromise as speaker placement multiple subs - 2 small subs are better than 1 large one to avoid lumpy bass wall colour if using a projector - white walls will kill the cinema feel and reduce contrast on the screen due to reflected light, even in a completely light-controlled room A note on the Nvidia Shield - it used to not support auto-switching between different frame rates. This means that you will get visual judder if (e.g.) you stream BBC iPlayer at 50fps vs if you play a Bluray at 24fps. This may have been fixed recently, but was not a few months ago. You might be able to manually switch the frame rate in the shield.

We have (bottom to top) EPS 300mm Concrete slab 150mm Insulation 50mm Membrane Screed 50mm Finish floor (engineered timber) This is to achieve PH levels and eliminate cold-bridging. Looks like you have much less insulation and will also get cold bridging at the wall junction?

Yes. See the example with Abba here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudness_war The first LP I bought with my pocket money was by Abba - now what an admission in a public forum! Digital audio did not exist then. I still use FM for improved audio quality. e.g. my car can tune both DAB and FM, FM sounds much more natural to me, even in that noisy environment.

Cons: Basement cost is going to be higher than double story. Bedrooms risk being dark all the time. Need to ensure fire-exit in habitable space. Harder to sell. Pros: Bedrooms will be nice and quiet So unless there is a compelling reason (e.g. planning constraints) I would avoid.

I cannot argue with that as far as the medium is concerned, but mastering is a factor. LPs made prior to about the mid 1990s were not compressed as badly as CDs, and most new releases of old recordings (so called remasters) have been compressed to death and are not fun to listen to. So my record player still has a place. Don't have any VHS, though.

I thought we were in the age of Netflix? I'm still in the past - good old blu-ray, good enough for my tired eyes. I finally got my record player hooked up a week ago, it had been gathering dust since before our build, some 4 years. Who needs rice-crispies.

Another factor for the sloping site is if part of your build is below ground. If so this will reduce heating requirement as below ground the temperature will not drop as low as air in the winter, so you might get away with no heat in bedrooms. Our (fully underground) basement remains a constant 19-20C without additional heating. MVHR cannot move a small delta of heat between rooms, or to extract, in any meaningful way. Unless it is blowing very very hard. The primary intent is to supply fresh air and extract stale and moist air. Suggest you get it modelled before you decide on a solution. Example PHPP will give you over-heating days. South-facing sun is probably welcome as it will add heat in the winter and shoulder months, but not as much in summer when the sun is more overhead. A simple brise-soleil with less than 1m of overhang (depending on glazing height) might suffice. Of more concern would be west and east-facing as you will get significant solar gains in summer.

If the f7 is the first filter, that could be where the issue lies. In our system the f7 is the third line of defense. We have an insect mesh on the inlet, then a g4 and finally the f7. I tend to wash the mesh every year and replace the others as a set. It might be worth adding a fine stainless steel mesh to the inlet to capture the bigger crud. I reckon you could wrap a strip around the perimeter.

As per @JSHarris, I tend to vacuum mine at 3 months and replace at 6. They do look pretty bad at 6. I purchased mine from http://www.filterworld.eu/ About 1/3 of the UK price but high postage if ordering 1 or 2 sets, so I ordered 5 sets. I also had a quote from Jasun, they were more expensive. Is your alert time-interval based or something else? Our Airflow alarm is set at a time interval, but it is conceivable your is e.g. measuring a pressure drop? Also, from your photos it looks like your F7 is trapping some large stuff (is that plant material)? I would expect either you intake duct wire mesh or the G4 prior to the F7 to capture these, thus the F7 has only the finer stuff to filter.

A couple of other factors (for me) in my decisions for UFH: with an ASHP I can put the HP into reverse and add cooling into the house. Cool-floor. I doubt you can do this with radiators, if the water is below about 15C you risk condensation. Have used this in the very hot summer (2018) and it does help, though not as good as direct air-cooling would be. Passive heat distribution - by running water through the UFH I thought I could re-distribute heat e.g. sun shining through the windows heat the floor and the energy is shifted to the north side of the house or to my basement. Not sure if this actually works in practice. In theory @jonM 's architect is right. With a PH your heat requirement is between 1 and 3kW for a small to medium size house, so the complexity and expense of UFH is not needed. In theory you can get away with a single fan heater. But you are comparing point to distributed heat sources and this is where comfort (human perception) comes into play. I once came across some research about how humans perceive warmth and hence comfort. Unfortunately I did not clip it and have been unable to find it again. The research was in the context of flooring materials. It concluded that, when people walk on a floor that feels cold (e.g. hard tile) they feel cold even if the air temperature is fine. But if the floor feels warm (e.g. carpet) then they feel warm even if the room is a bit cooler. I believe UFH goes some way to providing the "all-round" warmth / comfort perception. One thing to note in UFH vs rads is that rads are great when you come in after a walking the dog in the cold and need to warm your body up - you can lean against the warm surface and this is a lovely feeling. You don't get this with UFH.

My experience is different. On our PH-standard build, and despite no insulation between ground floor and first floor we do not get sufficient heat from below to keep bedrooms warm enough. I was getting conflicting feedback from other people in this situation so decided to fit direct electrical heater in upstairs MVHR ducts as a precaution. Plus low-energy towel rails in bathrooms. I'm glad I did this as we do need it. In winter I keep towel rails on 24x7 (perhaps about 50W on average - guesstimate). I also have a thermostat and timer for upstairs MVHR heating, it is usually enough to switch on for 1 to 2 hrs each morning and early evening to take the chill off in the rooms, without over-heating for sleep.

Another option is warmed air through the MVHR - only possible if your energy requirements are very low, else you have to heat the air a lot and this is unpleasant for the occupants. I use UFH at ground and basement, and heated air through MVHR in bedrooms.

From a comfort perspective, UFH every time as it removes localised hot-spots and cold-spots. Are you using a ASHP? These are more efficient at low temperatures, and rads will need warmer water.

Hi and welcome. Looks like you have a big one on your hands there, looks good on paper. Also looks like you have the pre-requisite to get a good outcome

I second the Nilfisk, purchased a c130 from their outlet store for £80ish. It has variable pressure so can be used on cars at low pressure and patios at high.

My thoughts are that design should be done hand-in-hand with the construction technique - as each method will have it's own peculiarities or limitations and these should be factored into the thought process early. In our case we knew we wanted timberframe and basement using ICF / waterproof concrete. Our architect then designed and detailed in collaboration with the appropriate suppliers. I employed a PM from pre-planning through to watertight shell, then managed it myself from that point on. The package included QS, and they guided me to some cost optimisation opportunities, plus were able to provide key contacts e.g. basement supplier and contractor. PM me if interested.

We installed a Bette shower tray flush to the floor. The installation kit creates a box and the screed poured outside that. Works well. You might need something solid over the polystyrene to support the frame.

Probably the one you need after hauling 150kg upstairs without the trolley. Never used one of these but have seen a Xerox copier carried on one many many years ago. Non-electric version with 3 wheels per side in a rotary frame / configuration, when you hit the stair the wheel assembly rotates to simulate a walking movement.

Not sure I follow the logic. Solar gain is usually more of an issue in the shoulder months when the sun can be bright but low enough. During this period, a low energy house needs very little heat input, so ufh / slab will only be about 1 or 2C above room temperature. As the room warms from solar gain, the slab emits less and less energy. Once room temperature is above that of the slab then the heat is transferred into the slab. Delta T dictates this. In theory, a thicker slab will provide a better "cushion" so might be more beneficial.

Our bedroom has a triple glazed Fakro roof window, directly above the bed. North facing. Yes you can hear heavy rain but not excessively noisy.

Best of luck!

Don't have the time to read it, but my story as input: We purchased an old bungalow on about 0.25 acres. Approx 90m2. We got approved for a replacement of 330m2. So far so good, alighned to your experience. However, before we purchased the developer who owned the bungalow attempted 3 times to get planning for 2 houses. He started with large houses and scaled downwards with each iteration, by his last attempt the 2 houses were smaller than our single dwelling. Planners insisted it was "over-development" and then aspects like over-bearing etc came into play. Our single dwelling probably has similar bearing but was not deemed an issue.