MJNewton

It will handle such pollutants, but only insofar that it will indeed happily draw them in and distribute them around your house! Unfortunately, likely more effectively than if you were just passively ventilated. A continuous controlled supply of fresh air was one of the motivations for us retrofitting MVHR and so it was to much concern when our (friendly and perfectly pleasant) neighbour opted to fit a woodburner... Panic set in and fearing certain death from them lighting the thing up I rigged up an air quality sensor inside the supply manifold which, if a particular threshold of PM1/2.5/10 was reached, would 'trick' the MVHR unit in to frost mode which keeps the extract going but cuts the supply for 10 minutes before reassessing the situation. It works really well and since fitting it we've never once noticed even the slightest whiff of smoke even when conditions (wind in the wrong direction, overly damp wood etc) might otherwise have potentially caused us to do so. However, and this is probably he biggest point I'd like to make, not only did I fit an air quality sensor inside the supply manifold but put one inside the house and that has made me realise that we almost certainly create as much pollutants (assuming all particulate matter of a given size is equally harmful?) ourselves every day from cooking than what the neighbour's woodburner some distance from our MVHR inlet might do and so have really become quite chilled about the matter!

With regards to the design detail why is there ventilation? You wouldn't normally have it in a warm roof construction.

We've got an extract above the hob and it works well - helps ensure steam and cooking smells are removed at source. Did think we might have an issue with airborne grease and so fitted a washable sponge filter inside the vent but we don't do all that much frying so I wonder how much we really require it. The extract is double ducted and we have two single ducted supplies at opposite ends of the open plan kitchen/diner/lounge.

Yeah, absolutely agree with this. Fitting weep vents is trivial, and even fitting cavity trays is pretty straightforward for a brickie. They get a lot of practice for retrofitting trays when building extensions so it won't phase them at all.

Although I've returned to a connected can after well over a year without use and it worked as if it was only yesterday. I must admit I was very surprised though so probably a stroke of luck rather than an anecdote to be relied upon.

You've mentioned nail holes a couple of times yet all the discussion seems to be about the membrane material. If the water is coming in through the nail holes, and only the nail holes, then what does the material have to do with it? A hole is a hole and of course is never going to be waterproof. The mitigation for this is, and always has been, ensuring the membrane is drooped between rafters (keeps any water that finds its way through away from the rafters and nail holes) and of course having a layer of tiles on top (which practically keeps all the water away in the first place).

It is perfectly fine for thin cutting discs as the shaft flange supports sufficient (if not the whole) depth of the hole. It is only thicker discs - grinding discs in particular - that benefit from the flange on the nut.

Try flipping the locking nut - that can usually solve it if there's still sufficient thread to secure the nut in place.

It is more the occasional user that is at risk as they are more likely to be using old discs where the binding adhesive has lost its strength. Expiry dates should always be honoured, but I must admit as an occasional user myself I have found myself several times now just needing the grinder for a quick job and only having expired discs to hand. I still use them - just a bit more carefully and with extra consideration for where the bits might end up if it does go.

I'd echo the recommendations to stick to 'dumb' detectors, from well-known and established brands etc. Not only are they cheaper than 'smart' offerings but I have much greater confidence in their performance, longevity and availability of sensor options. However, notifications and alerts as you say are a great feature for peace of mind so I achieve that with a relay base (e.g. this one for Aico setups) which in turn triggers a Shelly smart relay to send me an alert (via a web-to-SMS gateway as it happens but it's own app can also do it) should any of the sensors trigger.

One reason is surround sound on BBC as iPlayer still doesn't support it. But yeah, we definitely watch far more over the Internet than terrestrial these days.

I always find the Wolfbane reception predictor an excellent tool - give it your postcode/coordinates and aerial height and it'll tell you what aerial type (group and polarisation) you need for each 'visible' transmitter along with the compass bearing to aim it. We've got a loft aerial and, somewhat amazingly, it works fine despite being 35 miles from our transmitter.

It is usually quite obvious if it is happening afterwards (and only afterwards) as there's usually a small but noticeable pause between finishing draining and the plug of water making its way through the pipework and creating the vacuum behind it.

Is the noise during draining or after? I think that will likely indicate whether it's a turbulence/waterfall issue or syphoning. I'd normally associate 'gurgling' with the latter but it's just a word.

Are you sure? Isn't the gurgling a consequence of syphoning caused by the large volume of water running through the pipes and sucking air behind it through trap? If so, I'd expect an air admittance valve after the trap (may have to be built in the trap if there's limited space) to resolve it as it'd provide a source of air to reduce the vacuum.

Just where two switxhes in parrallel. When either door is opened the LED strip will illuminate.

I've used wardrobe lights similar to this from Ikea which work really well. They come on automatically (using small near-field IR sensors) when either door is opened. This particular model can be dimmed (ours can't so we likely have an older model).

Yeah you just need to spread the load and not have two moving surfaces in contact.

I just used normal ducting (a mix of rigid and semi-rigid) and fed it through insulated ducting of the next size up. Cheap but effective. (Example supplier link to illustrate)

Yes, that was exactly my point. Apologies if my wording caused any confusion - I could've explained it better.

If the felt isnt pulled tight then the resulting droops keep water away from the rafters - and the holes that are present there. If it is tight then water can find it's way towards the rafters, particularly if so tight so as to be touching the battens across the length. The issue can be exacerbated over time due to dirt build up.

Yeah, I was only being mischievous.

Yeah, you could perhaps re-hang it then swap it back round afterwards. Maybe make it completely obvious - but still deniable - that that's what you'll be doing by leaving your tools out, pot of filler etc to one side!

I don't recall ever seeing a bathroom where the door opens outwards. Not saying they don't exist, but they're certainly not common in my experience! Outward opening doors inherently present an impact risk to others walking by, the mitigation usually some level of glazing to allow you to see through it but obviously not very desirable for a bathroom! I might well just be ignorant of the regs, and all the bathrooms I've been in pre-date the introduction of such a rule! (Although our own house is 2007 and they're all inward-opening - that's longer ago than I sometimes think though). Edit: Actually, we've got a downstairs toilet with an outward-opening door and perhaps that ticks the box in terms of having a wheelchair accessible toilet and that's what it's all about rather than people collapsing (which surely also happens in rooms besides bathrooms?!).

Ah, yes, and as a hay fever sufferer you'd think I would've thought of that! I am more of a tree pollen sufferer and the species that affect me most have been and gone now. I believe pollen tends to be on the larger side and the graphs do seem to indicate that it is the larger particulate sizes that are highest so that could well be it.