MJNewton

Try flipping the locking nut - that can usually solve it if there's still sufficient thread to secure the nut in place.

It is more the occasional user that is at risk as they are more likely to be using old discs where the binding adhesive has lost its strength. Expiry dates should always be honoured, but I must admit as an occasional user myself I have found myself several times now just needing the grinder for a quick job and only having expired discs to hand. I still use them - just a bit more carefully and with extra consideration for where the bits might end up if it does go.

I'd echo the recommendations to stick to 'dumb' detectors, from well-known and established brands etc. Not only are they cheaper than 'smart' offerings but I have much greater confidence in their performance, longevity and availability of sensor options. However, notifications and alerts as you say are a great feature for peace of mind so I achieve that with a relay base (e.g. this one for Aico setups) which in turn triggers a Shelly smart relay to send me an alert (via a web-to-SMS gateway as it happens but it's own app can also do it) should any of the sensors trigger.

One reason is surround sound on BBC as iPlayer still doesn't support it. But yeah, we definitely watch far more over the Internet than terrestrial these days.

I always find the Wolfbane reception predictor an excellent tool - give it your postcode/coordinates and aerial height and it'll tell you what aerial type (group and polarisation) you need for each 'visible' transmitter along with the compass bearing to aim it. We've got a loft aerial and, somewhat amazingly, it works fine despite being 35 miles from our transmitter.

It is usually quite obvious if it is happening afterwards (and only afterwards) as there's usually a small but noticeable pause between finishing draining and the plug of water making its way through the pipework and creating the vacuum behind it.

Is the noise during draining or after? I think that will likely indicate whether it's a turbulence/waterfall issue or syphoning. I'd normally associate 'gurgling' with the latter but it's just a word.

Are you sure? Isn't the gurgling a consequence of syphoning caused by the large volume of water running through the pipes and sucking air behind it through trap? If so, I'd expect an air admittance valve after the trap (may have to be built in the trap if there's limited space) to resolve it as it'd provide a source of air to reduce the vacuum.

Just where two switxhes in parrallel. When either door is opened the LED strip will illuminate.

I've used wardrobe lights similar to this from Ikea which work really well. They come on automatically (using small near-field IR sensors) when either door is opened. This particular model can be dimmed (ours can't so we likely have an older model).

Yeah you just need to spread the load and not have two moving surfaces in contact.

I just used normal ducting (a mix of rigid and semi-rigid) and fed it through insulated ducting of the next size up. Cheap but effective. (Example supplier link to illustrate)

Yes, that was exactly my point. Apologies if my wording caused any confusion - I could've explained it better.

If the felt isnt pulled tight then the resulting droops keep water away from the rafters - and the holes that are present there. If it is tight then water can find it's way towards the rafters, particularly if so tight so as to be touching the battens across the length. The issue can be exacerbated over time due to dirt build up.

Yeah, I was only being mischievous.

Yeah, you could perhaps re-hang it then swap it back round afterwards. Maybe make it completely obvious - but still deniable - that that's what you'll be doing by leaving your tools out, pot of filler etc to one side!

I don't recall ever seeing a bathroom where the door opens outwards. Not saying they don't exist, but they're certainly not common in my experience! Outward opening doors inherently present an impact risk to others walking by, the mitigation usually some level of glazing to allow you to see through it but obviously not very desirable for a bathroom! I might well just be ignorant of the regs, and all the bathrooms I've been in pre-date the introduction of such a rule! (Although our own house is 2007 and they're all inward-opening - that's longer ago than I sometimes think though). Edit: Actually, we've got a downstairs toilet with an outward-opening door and perhaps that ticks the box in terms of having a wheelchair accessible toilet and that's what it's all about rather than people collapsing (which surely also happens in rooms besides bathrooms?!).

Ah, yes, and as a hay fever sufferer you'd think I would've thought of that! I am more of a tree pollen sufferer and the species that affect me most have been and gone now. I believe pollen tends to be on the larger side and the graphs do seem to indicate that it is the larger particulate sizes that are highest so that could well be it.

Sounds reasonable. Our 150L Range Tribune UVC (fairly run of the mill I think? 15 years old now though) has a purported standing heat loss of 1.31 kWh/24hrs (no stored/ambient temperatures stated - is this standardised?1) so converting that into °C heat loss: Convert from Watts to Joules: 1.31 kWh x 3.6 MJ/kWh = 4.716 MJ Convert to °C based on the heat capacity of the specified quantity of water: 4.716 MJ * 1000000 / (150000 mL x 4.2 J/ml) = 7.5 °C Given the variability of installation the published figure might well only include the cylinder itself and not any connected pipework thus it would lose more in real life. Stratification may also lead to slightly different results depending on where the probe is too I think. 1 Edit: Yes, it looks like the various related British Standards specify a stored water temperature of 70°C and an ambient room temperature of 20°C for standing heat loss measurements. Thus, your 48°C starting point may or may not have more significance than I have given consideration for.

Nevermind the neighbour's woodburner... it's the summer I should be more worried about! This ongoing hot spell has revealed pretty poor air quality at quite a number of times: And this doesn't coincide by my neighbour and/or I wheeling our barbecues out (although they are detectable spikes!) as it is country-wide: This has got me wondering: is all particulate matter the same in terms of the hazard to health? Or even if not exactly the same is it at least broadly similar i.e. is it more the size of the particulates that are the issue (small enough to enter the bloodstream?) or is the type (is, say, wood smoke worse than whatever it is the engulfs us over summer - if that's what's happening here)?

The air gap needs to be ventilated though.

I wouldn't worry about the upstand - fairly commonplace for that to be thinner than what a normal roof or wall can accommodate insulation wise. 100mm of PIR for a relatively small surface are will be fine. It really is the ventilation of the cold roof though that concerns me. What's the detailing like at the junction with the pitched roof? I'm wondering if you can ventilate through the furring void, or does it taper to zero at the front? Who designed the roof?

I think you're going to struggle to ventilate a cold roof in that position, particularly at this stage.

Howcome you didn't go for a warm roof design?

What size beam does he believe should've been specified?