MJNewton

Is she in a hard water area? If so, might it be limescale blocking the inlet? These type of cylinder are designed to minimise turbulence when being filled (from the cold mains) which invariably relies on some form of diffuser which can be prone to blocking. If you can get some descaler inside with, say, a 1/3 tank fill of water that might suffice. The immersion heater hole would be the best form of access I expect. It’d need a good flush afterwards. If you did decide to get rid of it I might be interested in buying some of the external components as spares for mine.

From what we've seen I imagine it might just be a case of flexing/persuading the two parts to be in better alignment. Perhaps some colour-coded silicone to fill any gap that might persist?

Who is the manufacturer? Would be worth asking them about it. It might well be that the maximum extruded length they can supply is 6m.

Yeah I've done the same when my only other option was turning off the whole road! It's funny (looking back at least!) how much harder a job is with water going everywhere. Very different kettle of fish to an depressurised heating system though.

Was that water release whilst pressured? Once released the flow should reduce massively, although 22mm will always pose more of a problem than 15mm due to the difficulty maintaining a vacuum in a larger pipe. I can appreciate 'once bitten twice shy' and all that though!

From what you've described I'd just do that 'live'. Cat litter tray and some towels work wonders. As does having everything you'll need to hand! Once the pressure has been released then water can only come out if air can get in. It therefore doesn't take much to reduce water loss to a minimum. Pipe freezing is for mains pressure situations, and even then its not essential if you're brave and bold enough!

What job are you actually doing? Closing of valves is sufficient for radiator removal/refit, and pushfit stop ends can usually suffice for more intrusive work to temporarily cap the system off. Soldering of wet pipes is an issue, but it all depends what task you're doing as to what options you've got.

7. Always use inserts!

.. But noting that some can operate in unison ie one sucks whilst the other blows (stop that sniggering at the back please!) so as to get through flow of air between rooms.

Be careful with that assumption! Whilst they might contain the same pigment the body of the paint is usually very different and can thus lead to a different end result (not dissimilar to Temp's reference to plastics/metals).

Do you know what he meant by that? What's are the branches of the T-junction connected to/from? Are they suspecting water (condensation) build up to be the cause of the unit failing to run (PCB/motor damage presumably)?

Semi rigid, not least given that kine was a retrofit and rigid would've been impossible. I'm not sure of the benefits of rigid though - semi rigid seems to tick so many boxes in terms of ease of use, absence of joins etc.

It must just be an unfortunate coincidence. I do indeed fit kitchens from time to time! Are you sure you want to go with TKC? I haven't heard good things about them, but I don't have any personal experience. Have you had a look at DIY Kitchens? They are generally very highly rated (Trustpilot can be handy to get a feel for a company, particularly once thousands of reviews have been left as the bias of extreme views tends to reduce leave a good overall picture - which in their case is particularly good). I think they came out second in a recent whole-of-market Which? review (I think it might have been Ikea in the top spot!). I don't know where TKC came - not sure they were even in the lineup.

Yeah, apprecuate that, I'm more just comparing it with my little white boiler hidden in a kitchen cupboard with a flue terminal popping out of the wall. I've never felt all that fond or protective of it until recently when thoughts have turned to the possible pressure to fit a heat pump at some point in the future.

All that automation and you have to press a button? I was expecting a rim mounted break-beam detector or something... ?

I hope the author 'Andy M' isn't 'Andy Marshall' (Sales Director for TKC Kitchens)... ?

I certainly wouldn't want one in my garden. It's (they're) a monstrosity.

I'm praying that by the time I need a new boiler I'm not forced into getting one of these fitted. Seems horrific on so many levels. Come on clever people - someone invent something better.

Yeah, me too - just need to remember to move twice as quick in the event of an evacuation!

Don't pay for servicing. All you need to do is replace the filters every 12 months (I choose 6 months) - there's nothing else to do. Depending on what type of filters you've got (form/frame etc) you might be able to buy suitable replacement media by the square metre for next to nothing. P.S. Mods - This thread ought to be in the MVHR section - it risks not being discovered again in here which would be a shame as it's an interesting situation that we tend not to see.

I was thinking exactly the same but thought I might be showing myself up saying so I’m glad you spoke up first! ?

Wow - that could've been me writing that. I've lost count of the number of times I've been through that very same process, and I look back now and think 'Why do I put myself through this?!'.

I see inside my unit every six months when I change the filters and it's always fine (but always working so to be expected).

We have fire doors throughout but they're all always left open. It doesn't cause me to lose any sleep overnight.