CC45

it ends up being someone elses problem! Hold a bag open at the bottom and collect it all. Reuse. We used these register plate / adaptors + cement fibre board. http://www.stoveandchimneydirect.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=88_95 Tidy job.

if you are going to fit a WBS then I would not waste money on a pummice liner - its V V likely that your HETAS installer will want a SS liner for the WBS so the pummice is OTT - I know this since I wasted some of my cash on it. 125mm liner used in the end with vermiculite around it. I would get it done before the scaffold comes down.

Hi & welcome. You need to select a stove and then read the its documents - these will stipulate the gap between combustable and non combustable materials. Brick and normal mortar mix is fine, likewise concrete.

Heta Ambition 5 here.

any ferret pictures? reminds me of my youth - we had 9 in total. Fantastic and mad all at the same time!

I only use MR MDF for making stuff - denser & edges better to paint.

yes I do - really annoying when it splits - near the ends are the worst. table looks good ?

more primer? 3.5 x 50mm is my normal screw into 18mm MR MDF

sad to read all this - its so much simpler to get this detail right as its going up. Most trade just don't care unfortunately or believe what they normally do is OK. I hope you get it sorted.

Russell right.

Bianco piracema granite here. Stunning in our opinion.

you could feel the air entering via the doors - def the weak point with us. cc

pretty pleased with that - better quality doors would help get below 1 but we are going to leave it as it is.

Today was the day - after a lot of taping etc two years ago we found out today how good it all was. I've not had the paperwork through yet but the tester said the Q50 reading was 1.29 - not sure what this means but the air changes per hours came out at 1.1. Well pleased with that. Not too sure what others on this forum have achieved. I suspected it must be Q good because the house keeps warm with very little heat input. The weak points were french doors (bad - need to see how to adjust them) - 2 pairs of these. And there is a leak somewhere on an internal wall (?) but I've decided that we are not going to try to find them. Just need to move in now. Hope everyone is well, CC

@temp same with us - still needed timber laid up the valley for the battens to fix to. @patp - as @nod says - get the valleys lined and if your current roofer won't do it then get another one. There's nothing much going on at the 'big sites' that I'd list as quality - its more about cutting corners to bolster their margin + a lax inspection system. Do it right do it once

sink and washing machine https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-adjustable-p-trap-white-40mm/1957p into a 40mm waste pipe. boiler condensate T into this one and off to one of these. https://www.tradepipes.co.uk/110mm-drain-soil-adaptor-to-waste-pipe?source=googlebase Ditto the other one. Not a big issue here

is that as bad as it looks? Needs racking back to sound plaster and then filling. Any idea on the cause?

see @nod - good answer.

skirting to cover the gap. Tricky because the gap will need filling with something. Or cut a sheet to fit (avoid slivers of PB) - alternate the line so that the cracks don't go the length of the wall!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-GALLUP-XL-SUPER-STRENGTH-PROFESSIONAL-GLYPHOSATE-TOTAL-GARDEN-WEEDKILLER/262979755886?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d3ad09f6e:g:CgAAAOSwIaFZFDW~&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%2BoOBl%2BS1PPO0id%2BUqDw836h8AYDVRl5N%2BcqXzFs%2FjlsqkOb0%2FY0xLFqUMNh5iRhbH%2BU7i21h%2FMFu4uC13wchHadBzvNLdxjsKA2NXjJheBbM004JL3Zoojze9U%2FMXQA3s0WS5JZENnpWiHpMj%2FnyJkaKgt0acFLph0yOX3PcW%2F84S5LV8TF0d%2FbxXCk65%2BTp849WDs2uWkwoHTNz9XU6o%2Fsu%2FE97wNhzcDG9pYEL7DEY4Jobvs2Bh2l%2FKF%2Fa9mXtQFcQ2g1qUk4eIQkPngZ0fjIj%2FaVcC7ygyaGkAN%2FxWFyQ6v%2BCrDb04Uf1aIPULHuw2tYMb5bTu4CtvtjRveRNyMr%2FbEr%2BZBGrTA%2Fm%2BhxclJUGFhqN84S0JME43yxyy8kfRi41nZfzooC5fV2FC4tB%2F%2FTyZ1aFsq9Dih0J0rXC63C51o%2FgGtzsu63xlRCpfNNFexHRKZP7YlQx8WXCXdMkQZ0xzfjvbVGenIqr%2FIrn1F90W8oE4tsb0WJAZT1%2FyPXflpHecV9qwKBV%2F%2BGSEcN4iynKzTrOxe8whpXog4Vy1%2FDeGSq3CDGphMhfOwz0K3npTq%2F%2Fqot%2F%2BEQhlXdBumcqsNO1u%2FpalBgGLopbRUcqk7i%2BqHL0IBUrNpgCc31NRlvxd9mso167jOR62QVNwyzlmTbEOPlbQYd27pBaU7RWOIPGWkjE7muTBzH0U%2F3D%2FvrvCdGixDjpGFXHbFFHjNcR4Up%2FRJuc%2Bn1kjszjaRhs7svkGCGYDKA9Bk10jgwM965hRVT%2BI9mg%3D%3D|cksum%3A26297975588672c401a00bce4c6999673c61c103349b|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 job sorted.

I'd put the ones spec for 600mm at 400mm. Mate did that - rock solid.

We are in the same boat - in about 6 months time though.

DITRA used upstairs on boarded floors - seems good to me. Not an area you want to make a cockup on really...

you must save a hell of a lot of hot water in your bathroom.

I bought the romote unit & cable so we have a control point in the kitchen (so we can boost it when cooking). I just want to leave it do its thing. less complexity = more reliability