SteamyTea

Can you do a reverse CurlyWurly effect, make it gradually larger over time, rather that smaller. Then put a big Waggonwheel on it, as an act of defiance and irony.

Has anyone run the numbers to see how much extra energy is actually lost though moisture?

Very appropriate for piling. https://www.britannica.com/topic/sunk-cost

People from Delabole will disagree with that.

Yes and no. There are many anecdotal reports that the dry air in an aeroplane causes cold like symptom and I have experiences a dry, cracked and bleeding inner nose after a flight to San Francisco. Trouble is, we can all get those symptoms at any time. But the main thing is that air at 10,000 metres is extremely dry, so the air entering the cabin is starting off with little water vapour in it, and when heated, by 70 K, is even dryer. But then you also have up to 400 people breathing out a litre each of water on a 12 hour flight. You can get units that introduce moisture into the air, but never heard of one in the domestic setting. Though we did have a water tray that sat on the radiator back in the 1960s as there was a belief that central heating was bad for us. We never filled it up.

Get any flat area GRPed properly (it will need a light fall). They make boats that don't leak out of it. Not a brilliant roof for PV, unless the back is facing South, then the chimney is in the way.

True, but they are not walking directly on the insulation, as you point out. As above. But The hallway will take much more peculiar loads than a tiled bathroom floor, but I was really agreeing with you that a gut feeling is that it is not going to be robust enough.

Need to get @Onoff to 3D print a new case for them. To me it makes more sense to assign a smart plug to an article rather than a location.

Because we very really have 10 hours of uninterrupted clear blue skies, and an ambient temperature of over 25⁰C. They are not designed for the UK climate, why we use evacuated tubes, and well insulated storage.

That is at outside temperatures. You may be easily adding 10 K to that. Also why I suggested that if you can, dehumidify the incoming air. That improves the partial vapour pressure ratio. 52 A, only need 13 A for a heater. Just remember that a normal plug and socket can only take 10A continuously.

To evaporate water takes a lot of energy, 2260 kJ/kg. To put that into perspective, liquid water take 4.18 kJ/kg.K and air 1 kJ/kg.K. So basically you need to heat, dehumidify and ventilate. Ideally you would dehumidify the incoming air as that would be more efficiently as you can easily extract moisture laden air with only a fan. But that is not really realistic unless you have designed in air-conditioning. You say you cannot get the UFH working because of lack of power. How are you running the dehumidifiers? Is it a temporary supply? You could plumb in a Willis heater to the UFH (or use immersion heater in the buffer tank). Assuming that the majority of the free water is in the slab. You may need a 5 kW generator and they can be a bit expensive. The MVHR is not going to do a lot, even when shifting 750 kg of air an hour. The trouble is that at 15⁰C and 85% RH, there is only 11g of water per m³ of air. Or 6.6 kg per hour if you can remove all of it. But if the replacement air is at say 70% once warmed to 15⁰C, then it will always have 9g/m³ in it, so only removing 0.8 kg/hour. Heat the slab, large fan to outside, ditch the dehumidifiers, mug of tea and a good book. It back and enjoy.

Being a bit more serious, and as much as I like SI units, some times it is easier for us to visualise things in imperial measurements. 45 kPa is 6.5 lb per square inch. Now I have just measured my size shoe and estimated that the floor contact area is 3 inches by 9 inches, so two of them will be 54 inch2. Now taking a mass of 105 kg, that is 230 lb. Assuming that larger people have bigger feet, shall call it 60 inch2. 230 [lb] / 60 [inch2] = 3.8 lb.inch-2 Now on the face of it, all seems fine. But is engineering, we don't work at the limit of the materials, and a safety margin is used. A safety margin of 2 is not very large in my opinion. I am also not sure if the @1% and @10% numbers are what happens when a load is applied, and it springs back, or after a load is applied and it is permanently deformed. That would make a difference to floor movement.

Trust your gut on this one. Or reduce your gut and wear oversize shoes.

Why not just fit a fixed pane of glass, in a frame, and have ordinary opening windows above it.

WOW, what we have always needed. What is the power density? Would putting tin foil on your roof be better for cooling? Would ordinary PV, or ST even, modules be better for absorption? Is it really cheap, cheaper than a sensible design? But what a great title for a paper, the decent use of words will sort it all out. And what happens to the 'cold of space' on a cloudy day?

Why don't they just make a plug that you can wire your appliance to.

What happened to the old saying that more than two shakes is a masturbate.

When I go hiking, I use wet wipes. Grown to like the feeling, almost.

You have to be careful if voltage drop. I think PV has a 2% limit. Can you run the DC side longer?

My work is done. Till next time.

Any one thinking of installing HEAT PUMPS should read from page 62 onward of this report. Not that report, it is the one I posted up by mistake. This is the one to read. Maybe a mod can come and edit it to put it right.

That is only 0.0116 kWh/K. Or, if you raise the temperature by 15 K, 0.23 kWh, which at 3 kW will be up to temperature in 4.64 minutes. Think you really need more that that.

Cant really add to what @saveasteading says. As insulation is going to be a challenge, unless you want to loose a lot of internal area, focus on airtightness. If you are eating ll the air in the place, then every 15 minutes it is leaking out, and you have to heat it all over again, it is going to be expensive. As you do not seem to have very large windows, there is not much to be gained there, except making sure they are fitted properly and air is not getting between the walls and the frame. The ground floor is probably the one area to have a serious think about, if there is a void underneath it, then you need to properly insulate but still allow for air movement. The basic rule with insulation is 'the thicker the better'. Why the thermal conductivity has the units W.m-1.K-1. You cannot control the temperature, as that is weather dependant, so all you can do it pick the lowest k Value and put as much as you can on the walls, floor and ceiling. k Value = W.m-1.K-1 R Value = l / W.m-1.K-1, where l is thickness of insulation. U Value is 1 / R Value, and has the more understandable units of W.m-2.K-1

Santa comes once a year, but he fills a sack.