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Would in not be a whole lot simpler if instead of labelling them A and B or DHW / Heating, they just labelled them NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) like a relay?

3 pockets to tile their "soffits". First one is a bit tight for getting adhesive in Thinking maybe just clear CT1 around the tile edge plus some blobs then whack it up? Cheers

Would cutting a one square depth of the mosaic effect tile not be sufficient? They look about 30mm

Still on the drugs then? I've heard some shit in my time but this takes the top prize...

@Dreadnaught I cant say I have ever noticed any light showing from our 3 but will check tomorrow its a bit late to go out and look now.

Tile nailing is dependant on tile make and wind rating in your area, I have tiled a roof before with not one nail in it anywhere so check manufacturers guidelines. Over lap on membrane, he should be sticking to what manufacturers recommend. Tile gauge will be dependent, if it is a detached house he should measure the entire roof and work out the gauge evenly, making sure he has the correct head lap if it’s a semi detached, he may have to follow next door to maintain a good marry up with there tiles, unless he has put in a vertical valley if he won’t put in the ventilation tray what else has he missed, how about the anti ponding tray on top of the facia? either way your paying so make sure you check and get it put right

Yes but only through a 245 beam with a minimum 3m span ... https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/assets/downloads/subdir/SAL04-20jm Site construction guide Sept 17.pdf

Damned good idea! That may well work a treat, and have the added advantage of the doors not projecting out as far on the rare occasions that they are opened.

Could you not have them 750mm wide and double hinged and monkey bolted..?? That would allow the middle 1.5m to open then if you pull the monkey bolts then it would allow the doors to fully open ..??

I must confess my cloak room door opens the wrong way (must open outwards to comply with regs) but I am hoping he does not spot it, or I tell him if I alter it I will only change it back again as soon as he leaves ?.

Pump on the AB side drawing down would pull against the seal on the valve - so if it’s on A then it could pull both A and B. They use the slight water pressure to hold the seals closed.

Leave as is to get the box ticked and house passed then change the door of it annoys you further down the line.

Go back and negotiate a discount to fix yourself if you don’t want them to do it. TBH if you’re not going to be signed off before you move in it’s probably a non issue as you will have time to address it.

Building regs require a minimum clear opening width for the entrance level WC of 750mm. Unless a 762mm door can be made to open right back, and only have thin stops, I doubt that you can make it comply, I'm afraid.

That does sound a lot, BUT in the initial 24 hours is the heat up from cold of the sun amps, so the next 24 hours will be more representative of your actual usage. For us (as a comparison) we seem to be using a pretty constant 22KWh per week heating hot water with the heat pump. Even guessing an optomistic COP of 3 that would be 66KWh of hot water, so just over 9KWh of hot water per day. That's for 3 of us. It is probable less than that as I doubt the COP is much more than 2 when heating hot water (unfortunately mine does not even guess at what the COP is at any given time)

The bath's under the "work bench"! Made to fit cover from 30mm chipboard with all the tat on. You can see the taps (not my choice), centre of the pocket.

The issue with a garage is the vehicle door. My garage walls and ceiling are insulated to the same standard as the rest of the house, except no air tightness membrane. It is still cold as heat leaks from the "insulated" garage door like it is going out of fashion. So I would say cheap rockwool type is all you need.

Nice, did you do the tiling?

It's all dimmable.

Not mosaics but faux and real grout lines

Three good suggestions. I'm unsure tbh how real grout lines will look against the faux ones. A while back I experimented with some decorating filler and 3mm spacers: In the wall pockets I've had to up to 5mm spacers between them to put on the centrelines of the main tiles: Not sure how they'll look when finished... As to using mrpb...I've visions of this ledge getting soaked by grandkids etc! Seems a pity to put mrpb over marine ply... Thinking now to maybe add a nom 30mm strip of softwood at the top, glued and screwed to the ply. It might serve to deflect the light straight down too rather than have that glare at the top...

What about a house with a "certificate of temporary habitation" ? (possibly Scotland only) A self builder close to me reported being able to move onto ordinary insurance once he had that and I am hoping to do the same next May when the building site insurance is up for renewal. By then I should have a fairly complete house, but the en-suite won't have been done, a lot of rooms will be missing joinery e.g skirtings, window boards and quite possible even doors. But the big issue is the sun room (orangery) is just a shell with a roof. It will be some time before we have the funds to buy the windows to complete that. At the last renewal of the building site insurance I tried to negotiate a discount on the basis all the digging and heavy work was long completed and it was only interior work ongoing so the risks should be lower, but they would not budge.

If you admit that you don’t have a completion certificate and construction work is still in progress they won’t insure you. If you don’t admit to it then the chances are you will not be covered if you come to claim. Like all insurance policies it pays to be completely open about the circumstances otherwise you may find your cover is invalidated. I rang round loads and couldn’t find one that would cover me when I explained the circumstances, not even companies that provided cover for alteration works, extensions etc. In the end I used Challenge Quoterack and explained the circumstances in detail. I was contacted by 3 brokers, one of whom arranged me the policy I took out. I could sleep at night knowing that it was all above board. My insurance was arranged with Halifax but I was not able to source this insurance through them myself. One of the occasions where using a broker was much needed. https://www.quoterack.co.uk/ChallengeQuoteRack.aspx

How would it work out with the mosaic effect tile landscape instead of portrait?

cheap pex-al-pex, a touch cheaper still for a km. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Underfloor-heating-pipe-16mm-PEX-AL-PEX-200-meter/323543239742?hash=item4b54ae0c3e:g:TWIAAOSww7tb5wq-:rk:8:pf:0

Tricky part out of the way

My rather cynical view, heavily influenced by trying to make an NHBC warranty claim years ago, and giving up after a year of legal wrangling, is that all building warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on. Their only purpose is to satisfy lenders, who have the misguided view that a warranty somehow reduces their risk. The reality is that I'm near-certain that warranties have no significant impact on the real risk that lenders are exposed to. I wouldn't be at all surprised to find out that there is a degree of mutual back-scratching going on between lenders that insist on warranties and warranty providers.

Stairs manufacturer have made our oak stairs 100 mill to big I could and should get them to alter Nut times not on our side I’ve finished up tight agains the downstairs loo I have a 864 door hung Removing the casing and replacing with a 762 door would work Under building regs Am I allowed to do this Or is there a disabled access rule to prevent me ?