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Hi All Well its been quite a journey ... House is finished (a year after moving in!!) with only the never ending snag list to sort ... Thanks for all those who have posted and replied to my many questions Bob (now an officially retired self builder !)

I've done exactly this with my shipping container, used VP300 roofing underlay, for roof and sides to keep water off the external insulation.

Definitely not tiling, that’s one of my most hated jobs of all time! Not a tile to be found in this place now 😂 I’ve gotten past the ‘DIYers blind panic’ stage, what’s done is done, though I’ll remain annoyed at myself for a few days I’m sure 😂 was going to do that small area of plastering tomorrow, but after the stress of today I think I’ll have a day off!

No it doesn’t specify, just says unsuitable for underfloor heating or floors which have minimal movement/vibration. I’ll hazard a guess it’s to do with flexibility, this is a C16 strength F4, whereas the flexible stuff was C24 F8. Just wish I’d had known there were different types as I could have bought some latex at the same time to go in it, or a different product which they had but said it was for interior and exterior use, was in a rush and just kept it simple, and now wish I hadn’t 😂 I’m not too bothered about cracking and it’s got no where to go, the LVT which I’ve got going over it has a thin layer of neoprene padding on the back which won’t be bonded in any way to the subfloor. Guess I’ll just have to leave it a few days to dry out, turn the UFH on and see what happens, and if it seems OK run with it, at least the LVT can be taken up at a later date if I need to redo it all as worst case scenario

The first few mm are a point and cutting section, and sometimes another bit clearing the hole. Then it converts to the thread at full diameter There will be a minimum number of full threads to cut into the timber and resist pull-out. I think about 4 or 5 turns typically. Add these up and 20mm sounds right. 3 threads instead of 4 is only going to be a mm or so, but you have lost 25% strength, even though lots of pointy screw is projecting uselessly, it's job being done. .

I also had a no smoking policy in the house.

If you use one of the EWI base-coats I suspect you'd get away with 5mm. Of course you'd want to paint it, or it'll look grey - like concrete blocks.

drain test bungs?

100% ring nails

Surely all that matters is that no localised condensation occurs. From this point of view I think EWI is beneficial, even one of low vapour permeability, as it keeps the structure above the dew point, therefore no condensation. In any case if you have a good airtighess layer, no internal vapour of note will get anywhere near the dew dew point of the structure regardless of the vapour permanently of the materials. Moisturise damage through diffusion just doesn't happen, it's all through poor airtighess.

here are a couple of snaps - i have been fitting into chalk with no issues its called everedge and i believe this is the 3mm thick 200mm wide you can go thinner / less wide if its not going to be driven on by the over eager amazon driver ! you can see the type 1 in this picture making up the sub base - we have black granite booked to fill out another 20mm leaving c 20mm exposed Note - make sure you get sharp stone and not round (if you are not going for granite) as this will not work as well for a driveway with any type of slope like me

Yes we did blow it in ourselves and there were not any voids when we did it for 8 months, then we had heat wave and I noticed the bulges getting worse and found the voids at the top. So we added the intermediate battens - chamfered the edges to avoid damage the membrane and then refilled the voids. No problems since.

External clear pipe with diagonal lines painted behind the pipe. Shows the meniscus clearly

T a hose into the output (before any control ) and use a clear pipe vertical next to the tank (in the shade) and the water level will be seen within this pipe 🤷‍♂️

I just did all the practical things such as not allowing waste to build up on-site especially sawdust and paper. No battery charging done in the house overnight. Fire extinguishers/blankets in obvious places mounted to the walls. No welding on-site without taking due precautions. No metal cutting in the house. Nothing left switched on. No running extensions plugged into extensions. No running heaters off long extensions. Extension reels to be fully unwound.

i looked at this as well. in the end just increased loft insulation more than negated the small losses from ties.

So for the purpose of the solar, the additional amount of space which will come available on the south side will be fairly limited as you said. Depending on cost of G99 in your area will likely be the deciding factor for you, but since the panels are fairly cheap these days, you'd probably be better buying enough to do the entire roof including the new bit, and then adding them on when the roof area comes available, having to amend an existing install will have its additional costs however, so it would be worth finding out how much that might be to weigh up your decision.

I think it's almost impossible to picture how the space will be, even with 3d rendering. I would suggest that if you can (e.g you're having stud walls), you delay the decision until the space has actually been built then you can properly get a feel for it. However, something that jars with me looking at the drawing is the positioning of both the french doors and the accessible doorway - there's something very odd about the flow and balance of these together with the french doors. It makes me wonder who has designed the layout and their experience in design as it may affect the balance and function of the rooms as a whole. Just a thought..