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https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/cumberworth-radical-retrofit-airtightness-test-wood-burning-stove/

I assume you’ve researched log burners in passive houses? They are a lot of log burners that say they are suitable but aren’t and leak a lot of air. It also needs to be a very small log burner and even then you still risk overheating the room it’s in. Our house isn’t passive (it’s close though) and we ditched the log burner for a few reasons. One of them was it didn’t feel right to me that we were fitting an MVHR unit and pumping smoke into the atmosphere.

Keep the joist layout as shown, and add in noggins between along a centre line that runs from one end to the other. Each board will then be supported at each end and in the centre. You may want to install a piece of wood on top of each side beam to attach the boards to, and so the top of the noggins would also need to be at the same height. "steel columns" or "steel beams"? Does this drawing make sense? The red is the steel beam cross section, the brown rectangles are a wooden "filler" on the left, and the wooden balustrade on the right, the blue lines are coach bolts that hold the wood to the steel - you may need a single (stainless/galvanised) steel plate on the outer side of the balustrade act a "clamp" and stop the heads of the coach bolts disappearing off into the balustrade wood as you tighten up the nuts on the inside of the steel beam. My personal preference would be edging to hide the steel beam, unless you don't mind the industrial look. I hope the above helps

Have two units, one through timber stud wall, the foam was taken through the wall, the other unit goes through ICF and that had a cast in place hard plastic duct, with a stub on the inside flush on the outside.

For me there will be no digging out and sub-base will be done. Guy will be mixing screed and laying slabs only

If your LPA portal has a good search mechanism - maybe run a search on successful S73s and see who is a consultant and gets good results? Then you've got someone local, with a few LPA contacts and a reputation

You're lucky to have a wife that is happy to shop at Poundland.

Thanks, I didn't know they had one, would have saved me some work... Maybe you've found the problem already. There are two or three debugging strategies for spreadsheets (a) look through the input data and spot anything wrong or missing (maybe compare yours with a known working example), and/or (b) track back the calculation from the cell that's giving you problems to find the missing data (likely) or bad formula (less likely). There's a 'view dependencies' facility in Excel to help with that. Another method is to take a known working example and then replace with your own data bit by bit - keeping a good eye on the results to spot something going wrong the minute you enter that piece of data. Relax and try to be Zen! (i.e. don't let your annoyance/frustration stop you from spotting the problem), try to be intuitive and assume it's going to take you and hour or two to find the problem. Or, use a 'consultant' to do the initial set-up for you.

I've no experience of confusing guests with my own set up. The switches are seldom manually used for lighting, other than to occasionally change the scene from the automated one, but the switches do provide the ambient temp and humidity data to inform automation, as well as manually adjusting blinds, roof vents, manually boosting MVHR, setting the house alarm, setting house to night mode. They could also adjust audio volume, track forward/back etc. but I don't configure for this option. A huge benefit is being able to reconfigure any of the functions on to any switch positions.

Hmmm, yes in principle caught by 'designed-in CIL jeopardy problem #1', But I think moving windows (as long as they don't impact overlooking) should be a valid section 73. You can always submit a minor changes and appeal if you don't have anything to do for the rest of your life.... >>> part of the original approval was any changes would need a new application Possible to paste up here the text of that part of the decision notice? An informal chat possible with LPA about what is and isn't possible under S73 in your case? This jeopardy problem is becoming a ridiculous catch for self-builders and needs a political intervention IMHO. In hindsight for everyone else .... it suggests getting all the design and other changes in and completely approved before commencing under CIL.

Very few decisions in life only consider cost.

Probably over the top but... DeWalt DFC1330000 Polyester Styrene-Free Chemical Anchor Resin 300ml - Screwfix or Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler White 550g - Screwfix To fill the gaps If you have access to a pillar drill and some thin [1 or 2mm thick will do] Mild steel, make a couple of mending plates. on for each side to even up.

There are quite a few of us. Use the search function to find out more if of interest.

We dismantled a timber frame bungalow and all the timber was taken via Freecycle and Freegle.

Can you build a plant room outside. It does not have to be up to building house building standards, just well insulated.

Lumberjack PU adhesive Glue and clamp.

Other exhaust air heat pumps are available. Is there loft space? Does seem a very odd decision, worth putting the pipes in as it is easy to do. If you want to go electrical, then just heat a 100 lt cylinder of water with an immersion heater. Just taking the piss there, do your hardest to forget about IR or FIR heating, just wasting your time. Why, it will just take up room, about the same as a DHW cylinder, and will be banned, sometime. Have you run a heat loss calculation of your design?

Why no UFH? If you’re building a well insulated airtight house (what’s your target for both) then a log burner might not be the best choice to heat it.

I have used epoxy putty to repair wooden props or furniture pieces, it’s good for jobs where a resin is too fluid for the job and I can’t mask up so the resin would leak before drying. I have been able to screw into once dry but my theatre props and furniture are only being used for a limited amount of time so have not tested in a permanent situation. Although can’t see why it wouldn’t.

PM sent

You would do your block and beam and slab as normal Treat the polished floor as a screed to be done when you are fully watertight just before first fix You will also need to budget to protect the floor with ply It doesn’t tend to workout much different in cost than a good quality tile

Skip loader taking afternoon nap. Volvo still upright. Haven't got my knee down on a digger for 30 plus year's

You can infer it. Moreover it’s ambiguous at best which can mean that a court would rule in favour of the client given the builder drafted the contract.

Just had a delivery of Zehnder Comfopipe in foamed polypropylene. Not too dissimilar to the Ubbink, but with smoother bends (of which I have quite a few). They'll be mostly sitting in the ceiling insulation for additional, er, insulation. Avoid the flexible duct at all costs.

OK maybe time for a planning consultant then? You've certainly got the budget for it now. Do you have any other options other than (a) forget the changes, (b) challenge the LPA's S73 judgement, (c) pay the CIL? I vote for taking your best shot at (b) - i.e. you or your architect talk your way up the chain of command or use a consultant to make the application / talk with the LPA. Just one other thought - there has been at least one other case on BH where the architect has pushed for another full application without apparently realising the CIL implications. Does your architect understand the implications of another full application?

Have him use screws - then you can easily remove them once he's left site