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Put up a pic of the house and a sketch of where the extension is to go. My initial thought is £120 isn’t enough. And if that is your budget then why would you give £15 grand away to project manage it. And why would you spend £10 grand being told you don’t have the budget. Get a small local architectural technician to do some very brief outline plans £5-600 max, ask 2 local builders to have a look and give you a ball park figure. If all is is good then go further. That is a small project and budget to spend that much on overseeing it.

I have planning consent in place for the attached and I am currently tendering to main contractors with a view to commencing build in the summer. I have specified attic trusses as while my budget will not allow currently allow, and I do not need the space currently, I would like the ability in future to convert the loft space to provide two additional bedrooms. I have also specified that the trusses by spaced such that there is sufficient space between them to allow a new set of stairs to be installed above the stairs that run from ground floor to first floor. A builder has suggested that the rest of the trusses will be spaced 600mm apart and so it would be easy to install say 4 velux windows between the trusses on the north facing roof. What angle roof trusses should I specify to provide sufficient headroom? I presume I need the headroom up there to be something like 2.1 metres at the tallest bit in the centre? Many thanks for any other input and advice on how to future proof for an easy later conversion. 23-131b (16).pdf

I think you are being a dick to stake so much money by "accidentally" demolishing parts of the house. The downside risk is enormous and I cannot see much upside. Just get a fresh consent, knock it down and build from scratch.

“the tree is massively tall but the actual crown covering everything is super high up. the lower branches would just barely touch a proposed 2 storey development and if it was a 1.5 storey mezzanine approach i dont think it would touch at all. weve previously had successfull application to trim the branches before.” So what is important is the TPO tree Root Protection Area. Measure the diameter of the trunk 1.5m from ground, then times that number diameter by 12. Measure that calculation as a distance from the tree trunk, 360degrees That’s the circular RPA that you normally cannot disturb or dig and basically isn’t in play. If your proposed extension is within the RPA you’re very likely stuffed at least with dug foundations. And unlikely to be able to take materials, machinery across that RPA either. I have trees and know this because we had to build around the RPAs. And our trees weren’t even TPO’d.

Could you use two of these to insert some blue MDPE between them and then put a standard blue mdpe T piece in to your blue? https://store.jdpipes.co.uk/plasson-plass4-universal-coupling/

Take, with a pince of salt, anything you read online, especially social media reviews such as on FB. It’s incredibly easy for a rubbish businesses to establish a positive social media presence online. People get paid to write fictitious reviews and content. do proper vetting, companies house check, visit prior clients etc. good businesses will be happy to provide proper reference etc .

Can't see the spec but 1A maybe the inrush current. The definitely don't consume that much in steady state, that'd be appalling The mains 12V PSU is a fine way to go

Ditto. Russell is right. Another option is to start with a quality, small, local builder. They can give an immediate guesstimate, and can get the necessary construction details within their package. Assuming you are looking at standard materials, as what you've shown is a bit flash. And as with all grand designs and architect mags no handrail "yet". £120k? In theory yes. In practice you'll be lucky.

Thanks for the heads up. We got one and it really is a great improvement.

That must be optimum. The gap between boards is sealed and becomes an air cell. Any tape would do though. Shiny surfaces are only effective when facing a void.

I always fill and tape PIR regardless. Belts and braces.

Its SO hard to get clear advice on this. Ive just done my workshop "warm" room. PIR foil taped, then vapour barrier over. Overkill? Maybe. But better safe than sorry. Rework will be painful, both of time and expense.

Tha manufacturers disagree. Vapour barrier on the warm side is the consistent guidance as far as i can tell. You are increasing the risk of interstatial condensation.

Oh, and read up on your local regs in relation to protecting against spread of fire. May complicate things and impact door spec on the other floors.

I understood that part E only applies to new build, change of use and conversions. I think that @andreas is working on an existing house.

This one might have a low force - https://quietswitch.com/products/quietswitch-quiet-pull-cord-switch-for-better-sleep

So between all the brain power of the forum, if I choose the towel rails I want we will come up with a liquid to fill them and an element to heat them.

Yep - try it with your eyes shut if you want a real balance challenge - I would have fallen over 5 times filling our kettle!