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You could consider a pretty henhouse/bicycle chalet like @ProDave

£1.40 per Watt Peak. Seems like the sort of figures I saw in the 1st quarter of this year. Probably reasonable given the problems getting quotes these days. Can't remember the last time it was £1/Watt.

Right I've thrown an hour at this based on what I would do starting from day 1 if it was my own project. It won't exactly fit yours given the further details you've provided. I'm not a fan of PIR in general, especially not in the roof. I would have framed it all in 220x45mm timbers, as it's readily available and cheaper than posi's. I would have lived with the 1.5deg slope internally rather than use firing strips. Then sheathed it with 11mm OSB on the slope and 18mm on the flat for extra strength. Put a good breather membrane over it, taped at all joints for windtightness, Battened along the rafters and then counterbattened throughout to get 50mm ventilation on the slope and 90mm on the flat section. Detailed at the junction with an insect mesh and drip as appropriate. Then 18mm OSB+EPDM/GRP for the flat section and slates for the pitched. Internally a continuous A/T membrane counterbattened with 45mm battens for an insulated cavity and then 15mm plasterboard. Blown cellulose between the rafters too I forgot to say. Advantages, 1. All off the shelf, reasonably priced materials, no specially made joists etc. 2. All nail gun compatible, no screws ( faster and cheaper) 3. continuous wind tightness and airtightness layer. 4. Good decrement delay, good heat protection. 5. None of the PIR issues. 6. Minimum wastage of insulation. 7. Minimal thermal bridging. 8. Moisture tolerant during construction, Nowhere for moisture to get trapped inside the structure causing decay. 9. Very good sound proofing. If I get a chance later I'll have a ago with the updated details you've provided, but maybe there's some inspiration there.

Short answer is Yes You can go to a solicitor and draw up what ever you want But be careful While neither of you intend moving anytime soon You don’t know what’s around the corner We often hear on here the term forever home No such thing We did a similar thing to you Many years back and gave our neighbor a strip of land so they could get around the back of there house Two years on they split up and we ended up with a caravan parked opposite our kitchen window I would draw up a very one sided agreement Assuming you may be dealing with strangers sometime down the line

Find a merchant who does sale or return. Fit the traps. Invite BCO. Remove and return the traps for a refund.

I can't think of a reason. Only thing would be the bottom of the trap wouldn't be a continuous smooth U bend.. more like a upside down n. But as they won't be used there's no worries over blockages.

Yes I can see those seedlings taking over soon...

Ive had that issue with some cheap LED. They flicker badly especially when dimmed even on known good dimmers. Its particularly bad if you observe a fitting with multiple bulbs out of your peripheral vision which evolved to respond better to fast moving predators. It can stop when you look at the lamp directly with central vision. I found the problem went away when I switched to a well known brand like Philips.

All the videos @FM2015talks about are readily available on YouTube, if people do the hunting. Anybody picking an icf product should have a good hunt on YouTube, if you cannot find it on there chances are not many people are using that product.

I know someone who cannot use LED lights, it gives her a migraine. I think the reason for this is most LED lights are not actually a constant steady light (no technical reason why they could not be) but instead a high frequency pulsed light. It's all to do with the way the drivers are designed. It is that high frequency flashing (in effect) of the lighting that triggers her headaches. Her solution was, when halogen lamps were being phased out, she bought in bulk so now has a cupboard full of them to last the rest of her life. (so she hopes)

Long SDS drill .. you can get them up to 1m long in 12mm and 15mm. Drill at a 30 degree angle and put 2 or 3 shorter rods in, then grout in place with cement slurry.

Earth rod can be several metres away of needed. I'd stick another duct in through the concrete base and run it to a less rocky area. You can then just cast a small cent or concrete slab with the inspection hatch in it. Or you could use a longer earth rod. The spark won't do the hatch, digging, laying ducting. That's on the civils (your) side. The spark needs to have everything done - rcbo, main fuse, earth, meter tails etc in place before NIE install the meter and energise your connection. They'll still pull and connect the cable cable even if you haven't got the earth in. This was how ours looked after the cable was pulled but before the meter was installed. .

You mention several different things .. A slight tingling when touching metal switch plates or similar cab be due to a bad earth connection. First job I ever had age 16 was to go to a school with an electrician where teachers were reporting shocis from light switches. There was a faulty earth at the consumer unit. Instead of being connected to earth the earth wire was effectively floating. It runs in parallel with the live and can pick up quite a voltage. Some double insulated devices (these have no earth) can produce a similar effect. Some laptops for example. Foil backed insulation will definitly block phone reception. It can also block TV signals from reaching loft mounted aerials. As for the WiFi causing headache... Many people have made similar claims however if that was true they would be able to tell if a WiFi router was on or off under laboratory conditions. For example when they can't see if the lights are on. For many years a man called James Randi offered a $1m prize if someone could demonstrate that they could demonstrate such an ability. I'm not saying wifi is definitly harmless but I've not heard of anyone that can detect it via a headache or any other way under lab conditions.

Foil backed insulation and low E glass can massively attenuate RF. That's to be expected. But when you describe a buzzing when touching light switches, that's odd - unless they are touch switches - in which case you will feel a tiny AC leakage current which is part of their design. I'd describe it as being more like feeling a velvety texture when you dab a finger on the metal parts. A similar leakage current will be created by certain electronic equipment in their power supplies. These have capacitor filters leaking a little current from live to earth so if your earths are not properly bonded you may get "that felling" from touching the metal parts. This ought to be investigated. With great respect I would say you may have a genuine electrical issue but may be incorrectly linking the headaches and thinking issues with the electrical situation. There are a variety of other well known causes for these kind of symptoms.

Yes. If you have LED lighting, you may find some of the drivers a bit 'buzzy'.

Last bits done/ job fully complete. I'll add an update once fired up, maybe september or so.. but hugely grateful to all for the help ( & patience with my Q's!). Zoothorn.

Ok so I think I have answered my own question. Looks like my location plan doc is 1:1250, but my block plan needs to be 1:200 or 1:500.

1 single in each room, 2 in the kitchen.

Or, £13.90 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384777307855

They will, but easily chopped off and it gives up in a year or so...or let a few leaves show and spray them.