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Definitely do NOT use dot and dab

I just don’t like aerated blocks, medium solid for me every time, I like solid fixings into a solid wall.

It is important that the mortar mix is correct and not too strong or it can cause cracks. There is a golden rule in the building industry that states ‘mortar should never be stronger than the material it is joining’. Some good advice here:- https://skill-builder.uk/aircrete-blocks These Fischer Duopower wall plugs work well:- https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-duopower-wall-plugs-6mm-100-pack/1030P?tc=KT1&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3oXXyb6R7AIV0-ntCh10cQq9EAQYASABEgIxmPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Some info in this earlier BuildHub thread below may also help:-

Aerated blocks crack far too easily, move around and are naff in comparison to medium density blocks. No cracks is normal with them.

Aerated blocks are more prone to crumble and not good for fixing to or plastering. Medium density aggregate blocks are good allrounders but you lose a bit of insulation. It may make no difference to the bed reinforcement requirement but best to check with the SE.

Doesn’t meet Part M of building regs as on the ground floor you have to have an accessible WC and you have 3 steps.

I've been meaning to post a follow-up and I'm always disappointed when threads are left hanging! (What happened to that guy whos new build looked to be falling apart?) Anyway, the worktop suppliers were really good about everything - seemed to be genuinely concerned about trying to make us happy but also remaining sensible about the options which is all fair enough. On the two main points: - Colour - We've reached the conclusion that there's no fault on the part of the supplier here... It's just a combination of our room/lighting and the fact that the worktop isn't quite as white as we expected/hoped and, more to the point, never was - the samples have got pretty much the same tone to them but we'd never put one in the corner to view it (it had always been out on the well-lit island) and even if we had I don't think we would've spotted an issue. We have reminded ourselves that despite looking high and low for other options whilst this one was out of stock we never did find one that we loved and so this one probably is the best we're going to get and there isn't the 'perfect' one out there (that we're aware of at least - don't tell me if you see it!)... And we've got used to it, or are not so concerned about it - indeed I'd go as far as saying we're growing to like it now that we're looking at the kitchen as a whole rather than focusing on the latest thing to have gone 'wrong'! - Island bow - The supplier asked for some photos and then arranged for someone to visit in person (300 mile round trip!). The guy that arrived was actually great - who knew worktop problem rectification could be such fun. A bloke from Buxton with a strong northern accent but with Italian roots he was quite a character. It took a couple of weeks for the visit to happen and by that time I swear the bow had lessened as I'm sure I wouldn't have kicked up a fuss if it was how it was a couple of weeks later. He said he wasn't surprised given that the resin in a quartz worktop does lessen its rigidity, and he also didn't attempt to deny that it should've be installed/left like that in the first place. Rather than berate the installers we just discussed what best to do and the pros and cons of each option, including replacement. We ended up removing the sealant, spinning the worktop so as to reorientate the pattern to what we thought was a slightly better aesthetic (might as well whilst we could) and then found that the worktop actually fitted much better. Perhaps my units weren't quite as flat as I thought, but even so there was a measurable bow albeit not one you could feel or spot by eye anymore particularly now that it had flattened. He tapped in some shims - his thinnest ones - and I was content (pleased in fact) with the outcome. He siliconed up, we had another cup of tea and a chat about life and the matter was concluded. So, all's well that ends well - and another reminder to me not to assume it's the end of the world when things don't quite go to plan.

When we demolished the house on our site, I salvaged everything, Inc a Belfast sink (actually made in Belfast in 1920) and left in the garden. At some point I noticed it was missing, some fecker had stolen it!!! Anyway.. we're going for a large workstation sink in our new build. Its too big to fill with water, instead it has a gridded "false bottom" and a half basin that sits in on one half. You could use something like a stainless steel trivet from IKEA to create a false bottom, and just use a plastic basin if you need to do dishes in water.

We salvaged a shaws double belfast sink from a kitchen refurbishment and planned to use it for our self build but decided in the end that it just didn't work in our kitchen or utility room. It was the right decision. It's now next to an outside tap in the garden and it is a really useful item to have in our garden.

We don’t have a Belfast sink but similar material and I always use a plastic bowl. It also uses less water ?‍♂️, my parents always had a plastic grid mat in their sink.

Many (most?) GSHPs and ASHPs will have a direct electric backup. The heat pump provides the base load. When it's too cold for the heat pump to provide the full capacity required; or the heat pump is broken; or you need to reheat stored water quickly; or you want to heat stored water to a higher temperature than the heat pump can operate at; you turn on the direct electric backup. You might be surprised what you can do with this. e.g. the little GHSP i'm using has a nominal output of 6 kW; plus three 1.5 kW direct electric elements (for 1.5/3.0/4.5 kW extra) Reheat time for 180 litres from 10-55C is 95 minutes on the GHSP alone; or 55 minutes with both the GSHP and the direct electric elements running. That's enough for pretty much back to back showers in one bathroom in a limit cas "loads of guests" scenario: Assume 10L/minute shower at 40C; from hot at 55C and cold at 10C. That's nominally 6.7L/min of hot and 3.3L/min of cold. A 10 minute shower is 67 litres of hot water gone. Say it takes 10 minutes of brushing teeth / having a poo / getting naked before shower / getting dry and clothed after shower. In that 20 minutes that the guest is in the bathroom the 6 kW GSHP and 4.5 kW direct electric element can reheat (20/55) * 180 or about 65 litres of hot water. So provided that you set the controls for "On, Boost" you can back to back shower 10 people through a single bathroom over three hours without running a 180 litre tank at 55C empty. Two bathrooms is trickier. That'll eat 135 litres of hot water whilst you only refill 65 litres. If your tank starts out full and the controls are set for "On, Boost" then after three goes (i.e. 6 people in one hour) you've drained the tank and need to wait an hour before the next 6 people. Bump up to something like a 12 kW machine with a 3/6/9 kW direct electric backup and you're laughing. (300 litres from 10-55C in 45 minutes) That'll effectively run 2 bathrooms continuously even with a small tank. (assuming 10 minutes of brushing teeth / having a poo / getting naked before shower / getting dry and clothed after shower etc) With a 300 litre tank you might not even need the direct electric backup. Even if your space heat load is only 6 kW it'd be worth having the 12 kW capacity available for the DHW in your 10 guest scenario. Note the ground loops don't need to be twice the size if it is only for occasional use. (you're sizing on the average rate of heat pulled from the ground not the peak rate) Useful tools for quick calcs: https://myboiler.com/calculators/hot-water-recovery-time-calculator/ https://www.spiraxsarco.com/resources-and-design-tools/calculators/water-mixing/water-mixing

We are having a issue with our Cedral. It's been up for 5 months or so and we are seeing some discolouration. The Cedral rep apparently thinks this is efflorescence from salts, like you get with concrete (builder sent them photos). However, the paint now looks to be flaking off quite badly, you can scrape it with a fingernail in places. I'm waiting on builder and architect to organise someone from Cedral to actually come out and look at it. Any thoughts? I'm not sure if we're looking at a manufacturing issue or what. Thanks