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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/19 in all areas

  1. That's an old pitch fibre pipe. They were used for a few years, then abandoned, as they tend to collapse with time and cause blockages. They can be lined, using a pressurised internal sleeve system, to limit the amount of collapse and internal delamination, but this isn't really ideal. Best to remove and replace it if you can, as sooner or later it will end up causing a problem, in all probability.
    2 points
  2. OK, I'll wait to review your evidence. I hope that it's been properly peer reviewed, as it needs to in order to be compared fairly with the published data. I don't doubt that you have expensive test equipment, I used to be head of the RCS and IR measurement facilities at what was then the Defence Research and Evaluation Agency Funtington Range, (now run by Qinetic, before that it was a part of the Admiralty Surface Weapons Establishment). The IR measurement equipment we had cost a few £M, and was primarily used to measure IR signatures of ships and aircraft, in order to research ways to reduce them. Just maintaining the cryogenic bolometers used in the sensors cost a fair bit. FLIR room temperature sensors are sort of OK for non-critical comparative analysis, but they are, like all IR imaging devices, highly dependent on the surface emissivity of the object being measured, so they will only give accurate results when their image output is adjusted for the specific emissivity of the various surfaces they are looking at. This requires emissivity measurements to be made of the surfaces, so that the required adjustments can be made when post-processing the data. Fluke have a short, non-technical, user guide that covers emissivity and the issues it can cause with thermal imaging fairly well: 2563251_6251_ENG_B_W.PDF
    2 points
  3. so when you fitting the turbine to it? or even an over shot water wheel LOL
    1 point
  4. No not our Loch. Waterfall just increases in flow when water levels are higher.
    1 point
  5. The original one would have just been mounted on a bed of mortar, you may find it a bit clonky if you have any bowed timber as it will lift the plate off of the mortar bed, if this is the case chuck a couple of concrete screws in to the sleeper wall to take the bounce out.
    1 point
  6. What I am finding is now we are in and comfortable, it is taking a lot to get motivated to get the inside finished. Little things like not having architrave and skirting board just don't seem to matter and seem to be a lot of work and cost (it is all oak) for no real "benefit"
    1 point
  7. Are you allowing for your floor finish, wood, tiles vinyl???
    1 point
  8. Am I glad that's a joke ... it is a joke right? No, really - it's a joke innit?
    1 point
  9. From the photo, it looks as if this is just an inspection chamber located within your own private foul drain run, not a public sewer manhole, so a 450 should be OK. Note 7 to Table 2 refers to manholes that run down to a sewer, not inspection chambers (they are covered in Table 11).
    1 point
  10. Just what I was thinking! Has to be better to just replace it with a plastic one, I think. I doubt it'd be any more work, either, as there's a fair bit needed just to repair that chamber from the look of it.
    1 point
  11. Looks like that manhole has seen better days .!!!
    1 point
  12. Yep - 50mm of EPS, then a DPM and 110mm of PIR and you will be fine. EPS is relatively cheap and will also stop any DPM getting punctured. PIR takes UFH staples much better than anything else.
    1 point
  13. As you mention warrant I assume you are in Scotland? Best thing is to ring building control tomorrow and ask. My LA (Borders) allowed me to make relatively minor amendments to my plans (such as the one you describe) by writing on them with a red pen showing the amendments. I did have to pay for a warrant amendment however but I stored a few things up until I asked for the formal amendment to be done.
    1 point
  14. Got a photo of the inside of the manhole ..?? I’d reckon there is a 150mm clay section in the bottom of it. The “proper” way isn’t going to work so I would do the following Get a clay to UPVC connector and cut it just after the UPVC sleeve. Slide this onto your UPVC (Easier with a short section - 7-800mm will do, preferably with a socket on) the “wrong way round” so the open wider clay end faces out of the manhole. Bevel the end of the UPVC to 45 degrees and slide the whole thing into the manhole so you have 150-200mm inside the manhole, but not past the next branch. Now force the rubber back inside the clay from the outside, making sure it goes in all the way round - long screwdriver is good for this ..!! Set your levels so this short section has a 1:40 or less into the manhole and then fill round the pipe and the first 3-400mm with a semi dry concrete mix ( use Rapid Set or even post mix here) Once this is set, bench the inside of the manhole - don’t use rapid on the inside, use a 3:1 sand cement mortar and make sure it’s all nice and smooth and tidy...
    1 point
  15. Well there is a lot of off gas grid properties being built and I still believe for well insulated new homes we make a good case in comparison to heating air. Garden offices etc. We actually sold more in Holland than the UK last year. But I will never say it's cheaper to run than mains gas. Unless its convection and no zoning and a very old gas boiler then we can make a case taking maintaince and servicing into account. Some people are paying £10 to £20 a month for maintenance contracts on gas boilers. Then of course there is the green credentials and the fact no more gas boilers will be fitted in new homes from 2025 in the UK. For other parts of Europe sooner. Hopefully more people will buy PV. But this government do not want it. They are increasing VAT on solar and battery installs from 5% to 20% , gas boilers still 5%. They have a green tax on electric of 17% on gas 1.8%. They base the CO2 emissions on electric from years ago when we burnt much more coal.I have had meetings in Westminster in the housing ministry and they take advice from "experts" who have vested interests.
    1 point
  16. sounds like you need a planning specialist on this to me certainly what i would take some professional advice at this stage but that just me
    1 point
  17. That's exactly what we were after. In the end, we went with the Fakro wireless unit (which from memory has internal dry contacts), connected to our Loxone home automation setup.
    1 point
  18. Welcome. With luck the covenant may be unenforceable. It can be quite difficult to do so. Suggest concise advice from an established local solicitor with a suitable property specialist. Crucial things are who the beneficiary is and whether you can show if anyone has breached it successfully. It is unlikely that people will take the risk of attempted enforcement either if you are doing something minimal or they have a low chance of success. Unless they are Mr Suburb with money to burn and/or hate the ground you walk on. There can be 27 PPs in existence if you like. But be clear about what you are implementing. The terrace idea may be better if you can combine parts of adjacent plots and make it a small cel de sac. F
    1 point
  19. @joe90 says he is 90% finished, so 90% left to go.
    1 point
  20. A week later and the Cedral cladding is installed and all we need now is for the scaffold to come down so we can finish the rest of the roof.
    1 point
  21. Make one ..?? Have you got a length of 125mm pipe..? Cut the pipe at 20 degrees, rotate it 180 degrees and glue them together - gives you your 40 degree elbow. If you then smear with CT1 and tape with decent foil tape it will be fine.
    1 point
  22. If you near Bath, I have some props rusting away in the garden you can have as long as you need them.
    1 point
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