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I've used one before, but there's no way you could bend it so close, you'd have to put a soldered elbow on, or solder a separate bend you made with a straight coupler

Hi just landed here - thanks. Lets leap straight into the drains! Looking at purchasing a plot with detailed pp. It's a garden plot, on a slope, down from the existing road. Currently the plot contains some kind of sewage treatment for the existing house up the hill. There are three chief areas of concern I need to deal with. Replacement drains system for the existing house (owned by the plot seller), drains for the new-build, and surface water drainage. Solutions for these haven't been included on the plans, but the LLFA have linked a strongly worded consultee comment to the planning consent :- Quote "I am not comfortable with this proposal but the FRA provides sufficient information for the LLFA to remove its objection, however the following should be noted: 1. The site is within the Critical Drainage Area. Land, the highway and property at a lower level than the proposed site has suffered flooding as a result of surface water runoff. The gradient of the land in the area of the site has contributed to the runoff problems suffered. 2. Due to the problems outlined the LLFA wishes to apply a stricter drainage standard than that proposed in the FRA. Currently a system designed to the 1 in 30 year standard. The LLFA requires that the proposed drainage system must be capable to contain and manage flows up to the 1 in 100 year peak rainfall event plus an allowance of 40% for the effects of climate change. Flow from this system must be restricted to no greater than 1.5 l/sec. revised calculations will be required. 3. Consideration must be given to ground stability and site investigations must be undertaken to ensure that the ground conditions are suitable for the proposed drainage system. If you are minded to grant this application please apply the following condition to the consent: Condition: No development approved by this permission shall be commenced until details of a scheme for the provision of surface water management and foul water treatment has been submitted to and approved in writing by the Local Planning Authority. The details shall include:- A description of the foul and surface water drainage systems operation Details of the final drainage schemes including calculations and layout Confirmation from South West Water Ltd that the foul network has sufficient capacity to cater for this development A Construction Environmental Management Plan A Construction Quality Control Plan A plan indicating the provisions for exceedance pathways, overland flow routes and proposed detention features A timetable of construction including a plan indicating the phasing of development including the implementation of the drainage systems Confirmation of who will maintain the drainage systems and a plan for the future maintenance and management, including responsibilities for the drainage systems and overland flow routes Thereafter, the approved scheme shall be implemented in accordance with the details and timetable so agreed and the scheme shall be managed and maintained in accordance with the approved details. Details of the maintenance schedule shall be kept up to date and be made available to the Local Planning Authority within 28 days of the receipt of a written request. Reason: To prevent the increased risk of flooding and minimise the risk of pollution of surface water by ensuring the provision of a satisfactory means of surface water control and disposal." They are not keen on the development are they? So who is the professional I should employ to deal with this challenge does 'Civil engineering groundworks and water management' cover it or is there a specific professional body that covers the skill set. Hope you can help. Dee

Start here: http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/16/earthing-questions.cfm?type=pdf EDIT: Link old but good pics, same as in the current AMD3 On Site Guide I have here.....and I can't really scan that!

Stuff like this that's made for the job: https://store.jdpipes.co.uk/blue-tracer-wire/

Ok 1 week on and I still have good pressure in the pipes (varying with weather between 1 & 6 bar) so it seems we got through the pour. I couldn't find a single visual example online of my configuration so I'm attaching a pic & video here incase useful to anyone in future.

No problem I'll be in the Cabin Pub Elmer at 6pm.

This stuff. Fairly evil. Be careful if you have any respiratory problems. Get the wife to use it. Cleared ours up no probs. Or just use a bleach solution and clean off and dry thoroughly before re decorating. The main thing is good ventilation and air movement. Have you a good extractor.

If you go to your nearest tool hire place they will hire you a CAT and a flexitrace, or similar. It's easy to use, just shove the sonde at the end of the flexitrace (or the one that Declan linked to that fits to drain rods - same thing) then walk over the ground with the CAT to find where the sonde is. Mark the spot with a bit of spray marker, then move the sonde in the pipe by a couple of metres and do another run with the CAT to find that location and mark it. After half an hour or so you should have a load of marks on the surface that are overhead the pipe. Join the marks and you have the location of the pipe. Edited to add: Declan and I posted at the same time, saying much the same thing

Hire both out from a tool hire shop. Most cats will come with a depth detection but they aren't really that accurate. You can only use these on a 100mm and larger pipe though. You don't need a Genny unless you are trying to trace the route of a cable that has metal in it. Not really the type of kit you would buy as it's uses are very limited so better off just hiring for a day/weekend.

You can either export the earth down the 100m cable (might well mean increasing the cable size to get the loop impedance down) or you could just use an earth rod at the house end and have a TT installation. I'd do the latter, as you'll get a very good earth with those lakes around. It's cheaper, too, as for single phase you could run two core SWA, rather than 3 core.

Good to know about Zeek.

@Ferdinand interesting, thanks. I use Zeek and get similar or better discounts (e.g., I just bought £150 of M&S vouchers at 15% off). This link gives you an extra £5 discount code [and it kicks back to me as well, so mods please delete if it makes you feel uncomfortable].

SWA is OK submerged, and yes it can be joined, using potted joints (I have a buried join where another run is tee'd off). Having said that, a new run may well be the best bet, and is what I'd do. Whether the old cable would be OK for the garage depends on its size and condition.

A friend near here is building a new house. He originally went for the daft sounding idea of trickle vents in the windows and mechanical extraction from "wet" rooms permanently on (a centralised extraction unit) Then he had an air tightness test done and it was too good. Building control told him he must have mechanical air input as well. He did look at adding a separate air intake system, I kept telling him the whole idea was bonkers (no heat recovery). In the end he has ripped it all out and installed mvhr, which is what I advised right at the start. My mvhr unit was about £500 and ducting etc about £1000 you should comfortably get a system for £2K At it's lowers speed (which I am hoping is what I can use as the trickle ventilation rate) my unit uses about 30W of electricity. Sure in summer, turn it off and open the windows.

Not at all. I only did that one as Impey allow it by making the outside of the trap body 110mm. If you see the pic looking down it reduces to 40mm . I could have cut the bottom of the trap body so it was fully open, but the discharge rate of that linear drain is already crazy fast.

@Dee J Welcome and thanks fr the full information. I'll do a detailed comment, and I'll be blunt about potential problems - feel free to disagree and put my comments aside, but think carefully. I think there are several questions here: 1 - The conditions applied seem to me to be rather standardised and not different from those applied to larger developments. There is no evidence that this Rolls Royce solution needs to be implemented for your single house, just assumptions. Picking up your text and putting it in Google reveals identical conditions for housing estates and Dr's surgeries. It is the sort of thing that may be required when Persimmon want to build 100 houses, but is OTT for here. A Planning Condition has to meet 6 tests (look them up - some info on this thread), including being necessary and reasonable. Since one Planning Decision should not form the precedent for another (that is the principle, but usually they can find some wriggle room to create precedent), there should be scope to argue for adjusting that Condition to reflect your individual application. In reality the original applicant should have nailed these down before it got to a decision first time around. TBH the "40% for climate change" looks like something created during a workshop or pulled out of thin air and applied to yours because that is the default. They need to prove that that is reasonable, and that means a scientific basis; it is possible that such justification exists somewhere. The best way to modify this is to engage with the Flood Authority and get them to change their requirement in your case, and you would need a suitable Ologist for that. Second best is to win an Appeal on that point, but by then you will have sunk more money and time into the project. The normal way I say to find an ologist is to use your Planning Consultant or talk to the most experienced and qualified person (prob. a MRICS) at the local *independent* estate agent. You should get a brief verbal assessment for free and you will be into £500 for a proper memo report on your options, with recommendations. To have the thing renegotiated by your Planning Consultant and Drainage Ologist will be anything from £1-2k upwards - it all depends on how the Authority react. If you end up having to do those elements then they could potentially be in a single report, or very brief, or straight out of your Drainage Ologist's last job. That needs to be negotiated. 2 - Relationship with vendor and purchase price/time. Do not be rushed. Time is your friend here ... their Planning Application will soon run out and that puts the leverage more and more onto your side. If there is a desperate competition for the plot from naive idiots then let the naive idiots buy it. There is no reason to jump into a potential snake pit just to get ahead of a person with a death wish. The vendor chickens are going to come home to roost here, because they have left an elephant-sized risk in their plot for sale. You either need that risk mitigated or the money to manage it off the price. To build such a scheme as demanded could be £10k for the design, £10k+ for the ground testing and God Knows how much to build it. If you accept the Flood Authority claims then you could be into 25k or 100k. Require them to come up with a solution and adjust the price to match, and/or retain a sum sufficient for you to manage the worst risk and pay them the difference once you have your Completion Certificate. That sum could be 20k or 100k. In any case I suspect a large garden pond at the bottom will need to be part of your landscape design . 3 - It may be that the vendor will refuse to engage with the problem here, in which case walk away. If they do engage you need an enforcible agreement in place (Property Specialist Solicitor - £1-2k or +) while it gets fixed (which will take at least 2-3 months and could be a year), and all that taken into account in the price etc. 4 - Wildcard The easiest way to buy this plot may be when the PP expires and they have to take it to auction. 5 - On the other hand this could be a situation where you buy it reduced and are able to renegotiate the risks or simply get that condition removed on appeal, in which case you could get an extra £100k of added value for perhaps 10k. OTOH you may do that and lose. You need to decide where you can afford to be on the Risk/Reward spectrum, and how much you are willing to spend understanding this plot. My feel says talk to some professionals, and perhaps pay the £400-500 for a formal short evaluation, then decide on that basis. Do not spend money that you cannot afford to lose on a risky proposition. F

You have 3 BS1361 fuses there on the red/yellow and blue phases incoming. The red and yellow are unused and your current single phase supply is taken off the blue incoming phase. The red and black coming from the meter are the tails. Underwater runs.....out of my depth there..... (I do as an aside know a lad who works for Flag Telecom that specialises in shore transfer stations for undersea stuff).

The Leyalnd contract stuff is only for obliterating the walls and not any good as a final finish coat . Ok to leave it on the ceilings in every room other than kitchen / bathroom ( where a scrubbable Matt is recommended such as Diamond Matt by Dulux ) as its a very chalky paint used for loading up and rubs off with a wet sponge ridiculously easily. I use it almost as a filler, rubbing down after two heavy coats and then you apply the top / final coat or colour coat over those two 'mist' coats. Works incredibly well this way and covers new plaster amazingly quickly, even on the first coat. Don't be shy with it that's all or it ends up very rough.

If you are aiming for an airtightness value of less than 3 m3/hr/m2 (which isn't difficult) then the BCO will want you to install MVHR. Natural ventilation is normally only acceptable as a solution when air tightness exceeds 3 m3/hr/m2

The issue is not the current carrying capacity of the cable, if it was then 25mm2 would be fine. Rather, over that length, it's the voltage drop that will dictate the size of cable that you use. It would not surprise me in the least to find you do indeed have to use something as big as 70mm, I would need to look it up and do the calcs. The DNO use larger cables, here the main running down the road is 95mm2 which then they tap off a 25mm feed for the short tun to each property. If you get the DNO to move the supply closer to the house, the cost will be for such a large caable, and the non contestable work of them making the connections, which they will almost certainly do live. It will cost a lot more than you just buying suitably large cable. Unless of course moving it closer to the house would mean shortening the DNO's cable run? It depends where it comes from? +1 to getting a 3 phase meter fitted and running 3 phase to the house. By spreading the load over 3 phases you might be able to reduce your max demand per phase and use a smaller cable, though of course more cores in the cable. I would use SWA buried direct in the ground. Single cores in conduit is acceptable, but I am not sure I would describe an underground duct as "conduit" so I would not use singles.

+1 I bought a plot with full PP for a house that had 5 foot 2 headroom in front of an en-suite toilet and where you could not walk around the bed in one of the double bedrooms if you put a double bed in it. We had to go back to full planning. It also happened to show the high pressure 90cm oil and gas pipeline that ran through the border of the plot in the wrong location. I'd too would recommend going for a purchase with conditions.

Nope. The tray goes down and stays down . The trap is called a 'self-cleaning' trap ( which means you can clean it yourself ). This is an Impey linear 2 for eg..... The last shot is the vertical outlet staring down into a 110mm soil bend ( as Impey provision for their trap bodies at 110mm, tres bien ? ). Bingo.

Yes, I have built a couple of aircraft, two cars, four boats (plus an old yacht restoration), an electric motorcycle, two electric bicycles and now a house. None were significantly cheaper than buying something ready made, but three of the boats, one of the aircraft, the electric motorcycle, one of the electric bicycles and the house were designed by me, so were projects to get something I, or we, specifically wanted, and which wasn't available to just buy. I suspect that a lot of self-builders choose self-build primarily to get the house that they want, rather than to save lots of money. If you cost in your own time spent building something, then the price will often be greater than the price of just buying something off the shelf. The hard part is assigning a value to the learning experience and the sense of achievement that you get from building something yourself.