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Just HOW many of you actually want me dead ? ?

Quick update for those interested Had a delay in the solar panels (importer not fitter) Fitted last week so can now finish the roof Not only that but the cupola was two weeks late. managed to get it up and fitted after the panels Hopefully will get the roof finished this week. Other delays are the windows. Munster shut for Easter and could only carry out the site visit on the 26th. Announced that the two week wait is now at least 5 weeks. Not happy.

Garden seat oiled and put in place.

Consider this .. Floors (still achieving u Value) o Ground (0.14 W/m²K) § UFH in 100mm screed structural slab § 125mm foil backed polyurethane § sub-floor o First § UFH in 75mm screed 22mm Weyroc/Egger Chipboard § 50mm insulation 75mm fibre (soundproofing) § hollow-core slab Metal Web Joists § 150mm void for services (including MVHR ducting) · Walls o External (0.15 W/m²K) § Sand/cement plaster § 100mm block § 200mm cavity fully filled with pumped in grey beads & glue § 100mm block § Sand/cement plaster · Roof o Warm roof (0. 13 W/m²K) (assuming 195mm rafters) § 100mm insulation on top of rafters 40mm PUR below rafters § 125mm Spray foam insulation between rafters 195mm Frametherm 35 § Plaster board with foil backing Not sure why you need UFH first floor..? The floor build up using web joists will allow your service void to be eliminated. It also probably reduces your floor depth and associated costs of additional walls. Structural slab may also help with depth of dig out and costs there too. What size is the proposed property..?

So after a lot of thinking/deliberating we decided to fit the geothermal heat exchanger. Just the small matter of digging a 50m trench 1.5m deep, 1.5m (ish) wide so we could run the 100m of 32mm pipe. 16 tonnes of sand to bed and cover. All done in one day.........exhausting!

Why don't you do it in his garden? No-one would ever find the body!

I'll apologise up front.....but THAT is just showing off. Seriously, if that's your back garden I'm going out to the field to shoot myself.

You've gone and said it now! Doubtless there will be a spate of tripping incidents in the next few days. In all seriousness, can't say there has been any issue and the Building Inspector was happy. As a consequence of your post, I've tried to catch my toe / foot on the strip but with rounded edges, it doesn't seem to be an issue.

Leyandii - bane of my life. Hate the things. Comprise the bordering hedge with my neighbour and to the South to boot. Horrible shadow casting things!

In that case I would suggest the key there is finding a way to get what you want which: a - Leaves your neighbour with what she wants. b - Doesn't involve her in work or organising. c - Doesn't cost her too much money. d - Leaves her garden looking acceptable or better. e - Probably doesn't put her gardener's nose out of joint. (Is he the best one to do the persuasion once you convince him?) You are best placed to decide how to achieve those conditions :-D ! (Added: Check carefully before taking the High Hedge Complaint route. Most Councils charge fees of hundreds just for making the application. It may be better to spend that cash on tree work or buttering up your neighbour.) F

Worth noting that there are quite a few helical pile solutions around, too, and Stop Digging isn't the only company doing this, there are others that have been around for decades, as helical piles are commonly used in civil construction, for things like big road signs etc. I believe some of the old Victorian seaside piers are built on cast iron helical piles, which gives an idea of how long they've been around. We were going to use helical piles at the first plot we tried to buy, as a solution to avoid a lot of archaeology under the site. Lots of advantages, including the fact that you can start building the moment all the piles have been inserted, as they are at full bearing capacity from the moment they are driven in.

Ask that one on the Gardenlaw forum. We need to know how high they are, but exploring reducing them to a reasonable height (maybe 2-4m if they are currently 5-10m) and you offering to organise it and perhaps contribute would be one way.

I don't believe you can do anything about trees. Hedges but not trees. Edited: Actually a line of evergreen trees might be considered a hedge. This seems like good advice here. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=408

You don't need to act dumb when talking to BT, they act dumb enough for everybody to share a bit of dumbness. Re the bad connections, they were old ones. Basically running down our road is one 20 pair cable as far as the big submerged junction box. From there it splits to two houses by that junction box, then carries on down the road as a 10 pair cable. For some odd reason there are two junctions in this chamber, with about a metre of cable between them. As far as I can tell all pairs were connected in all cables. then to compound it, a few years back there was a line fault, and a portion of the cable was replaced and a new junction pit installed where the new section met the old. So when they came to connect us it was a case of find an unused pair, of which there were two, and the first one he tested was "faulty" so we had the only good one left. the Engineer who came yesterday, who I have to say was streets ahead of the original one, re made a lot of connections in this one junction pit. He said they all looked pretty ropey and corroded so as well as re terminating ours, he did another half a dozen of the worst looking, so he may well have improved the braodband of others in the street. He then ran some tests on the line and said the signal is somewhat weak and put in a request to change the exchange end to a different profile. Today a speed test tells me we have blisteringly fast 4Mbps download. It just makes you wonder how many people are suffering with poor broadband, and if they cared to complain and get it looked at, by taking the trouble to make sure all connections are good, running some tests and selecting the correct profile at the exchange end made a huge improvement. I guess they just can't be bothered to give that level of care unless you make a fuss.

You can cut back the branches, if it's a conservation area then you need planning permission, but as long as you don't do any structural damage to the tree you can cut the branches back whenever you like. You just have to offer the cuttings back to the neighbour who owns the tree. There's no safety issue normally, however they get in the way of building work and the leaves will fill up the guttering so it is better to cut them back. Indeed I would recommend cutting them back as long as it won't ruin the look of the trees to stop your neighbours encroaching on your garden. I had to build my house 4m from the boundary due to my neighbour's trees overhanging that far. Like it say it is really annoying, if they didn't have trees there I could build 1m from the boundary and I just have a wasted space there and smaller main garden now. I got permission to cut them all back so that they don't affect my house and don't get in the way of building.

I had this issue on my build. Assuming that what you are building needs planning permission there is a good chance that the neighbours will be a pain about it. Basically by building trees on your neighbour's boundary and allowing them to overhang it you may as well end up owning that part of their garden. If you apply for planning there is a good chance they will want a tree survey and it will have to include trees adjacent to the boundary. The surveyor will then be asked to write a report signing off on your building methodology and that it won't affect the trees. You might be able to argue that it is a lightweight timber structure and you won't be digging foundations, I don't know if they have leeway to then not require a report in this situation. In my experience they wanted waste of time and money reports for everything but this was for a house.

Hi and welcome :-) Where you say "annexe" is this attached to the house or more of a garden room..? Reason is whether building regs apply so the answer on trees may be different ! In terms of the trees themselves, have you got a rough plan of where they are and what types..? You can build under trees with no issues however it depends what type of tree and the age - the safety of any tree is the owners responsibility and the neighbours should be managing that part. If you've got any plans or photos it may help with identifying the options.

No screwed using tongue tite screws.

I think 4 of them now work at the bakers in Helston.

Essex for a monetary value of at least 4 figures. ??