Leaderboard

And on further inspection, the gauge shows zero, which reinforces my last. Therefore :- Result 3) previous plumber is a penis.

All of the dormer cladding is now complete.... Looks very different colours depending on the light which I'm pleased with. Still nervous about the 1st being clad though and whether we have made the right decision!

Just came across this. https://septictank.clickfunnels.com/clearfox. Is it as good as they make out?, no good for me as the outlet pipe is 1.6 mtrs below ground level which puts it below our water table ( my biggest problem).

Yes Leasehold is rare in Scotland. When we owned a flat, we jointly owned the land it stood on with the flat above. We were both jointly responsible for "common parts" i.e foundations and roof. We owned a 1/8 share of the entrance area in front of the flats, we owned the whole of our garden and a parking space. But the issue is not about ownership, it's a covenant issue and who / if can enforce it or how to get permission. Very often if the covenant was put there by the builder, it was to protect them from you doing something stupid while the development was being built that might hinder sales of the other units. Quite often when they have finished and gone, they have no interest in enforcing the covenant, but it is still there, and "unlikely to enforce it" is not the same as saying you can ignore it. On a much more trivial level, I kept a caravan against a covenant for 3 years with nobody bothering me, but it would have been simple to move it if there had been an issue. The annoying thing about this situation is it demonstrate developers total lack of interest in providing a window where it might enhance the property with a nice view. Instead it's probably one of their standard designs and they could not be bothered to tailor it to better suit the location.

This time insulating my ground floor. Blog at the usual place http://www.willowburn.net look for the entry "insulating the floor"

If they are reasonably standard strip foundations, no trees or shrinking clay, I'd tell the BCO what you plan to dig and let him decide if he wants more info.

My thought is to build in such a duct and a fan costs very little at build stage. So I will almost certainly fit it. If it ends up not working or not getting used, you have not wasted much. By comparison, if you decided to fit it later, it would be a lot more work and a lot more disruption to the building, that's if it's possible at all.

Now shoot me down on this one, but I have a "cunning plan". On the assumption that a WBS in one room may overheat that room, and mvhr won't re distribute the heat very well or very quickly. What about an extract vent in the ceiling above the stove, ducted to another room in the opposite corner of the house, with an in line fan that you can turn on, to move head from the room with the stove to other room(s) A sort of blown warm air heat distribution system?

Be careful assuming wimpy will not be interested. We bought a plot of land from a major developer during the first housing crash. When we sold the house we built we picked up on a short covenant stating that we had to inform The Us in our case of any development on site. It cost us £1400in admin and charges to discharge

Put mine in 10mm cu tube. Just big enough to take the DS1820 sensor and cat5 cable and smooth enough to be able to push the sensor to the end of the tube. ST is seriously over thinking things, from a theoretical point of view. Although there will be some temperature variation between loops, it's going to be small and unimportant in the scheme of things. One carefully sited sensor (away from the edges) is quite adequate. Mine are used to control the heating as well as for logging. (The kitchen floor is an electric mat with inadequate insulation, so responds more quickly than the water fed and better insulated other rooms. It isn't used much, but the sun was out yesterday, so it didn't cost anything to run.)

You need to satisfy that both the local authority and beneficiaries of the covenant "approve" the alteration. With the LA accepting the alteration is PD that's the fist bit done, but you still need to get the beneficiaries approval. To understand the minimum you need to do then you'll need that legal advice. My non-professional view is that "conterminous" means the owners with which you share a boundary need to give you written permission. I'd try a diplomatic approach to just those owners and see if you can talk them round. They may have misunderstood what you want to do. Not many people understand a drawing. If they unreasonably withhold permission then you could approach whoever "us" is that has the final decision. Us may be the freeholder of the building, or a previous owner or their heirs.

When collecting data you need to know what you are hoping to achieve. With just one sensor, in one fixed location, all you can collect is he temperature at that spot, at the time you took the reading and only within the accuracy and precision of the sensor. There are a few statistical methods that will allow you to reduce the inaccuracy, but with single point measurement it is impossible to infer what is happening over the whole slab. You say you want to log the 'relative' day by day temperature. This is known as an anomaly i.e. the deviation from the central tendency. This relies on historic data, so as time goes by, it gets more accurate. By only sampling one point, and that point is not that important as you are looking at change, the sampling rate becomes important. So if you only sample once a day, say midnight, you will get a different mean from two samples a day, say noon and midnight. There are two ways around this: More samples, say every 10 minutes Random sample times, say between 120 minutes down to 1 minute Fixed sampling is generally the easiest to understand and gives you plenty of data points to play with later, you can easily 'bin' the data into both time and temperature bins. Random sampling will generally give you a better overall picture of what is going on, but takes longer to collect data for every time bin. As data is easy and cheap to collect, store and process, fixed sampling is probably the easiest. The location of the sensor is a bit harder. Too close to a pipe and it will over read, too far from a pipe and it will under read. This is why we generally use multiple sensors at different locations. Then use a weighted averaging technique (just an arithmetic method to make the sensors show the same temperature regardless of position) to show the temperatures. If I was using single point sampling, then I would place the sensor either 1/3rd or 2/3rd from the pipework. Ideally I would use 3 sensors in one location and a 4th sensor outside of the slab. The 4th sensor would be the 'true' sensor and the one that the others are calibrated against. You can keep this sensor separate an use it to calibrate any other sensors. By using 3 sensors in one location, if one fails, then the other two are still useful, and the sensors are really cheap, I think the lot that turned up yesterday were under £2 each. So for an extra £4, it saves having to pull a wire out, replace and calibrate a replacement, and then feed it back in. And they will fail. One mistake I made when writing a bit of Python script to check and read that sensor was that if the sensor failed, the script stopped. I am not a programmer and have little interest in it, but if it is part of a larger program, it can crash the whole thing, so worth thinking about how to loop around this. One thing I have found out about the DS18B20 is that they do not like high humidity, so either get some ones that are already encapsulated or put them in after the slab had fully dried.

If your airtight, you'd be better off drilling a hole, putting a 20 or 25mm PVC conduit through and then use airtight tape to seal the inside end of the conduit to the cables. Use something like CT1 or Sikaflex to seal the conduit to the fabric of the house accordingly, squirting just a little in the outside end around the cables to make it weathertight. A bit more tape that end if possible. A cheat here is to fix the conduit last so you can slide it back into the house to make off the inside with ease, then slide it too fat out to make off the outside. When you slide it back in, to its final position, the tape should be almost all inside the walls with next to nothing showing, thus making any exterior fitment of lights / other much easier.

I ran mine in just another length of Pex-Al-Pex UFH pipe capped at the end with tape. Goes to the "dead zone" but I can pull the cable back to put it amongst the pipes if necessary. Think it was @Nickfromwales said about running in pipe and @PeterW who donated the sensor? EDIT: Belt and braces if the sensor fails!

If the it reason they gave is they don't think it will look right the I reckon that's unreasonable. Had they complained about being overlooked then that might be different. As others have said... Who is "us"? It looks like if you get their permission the other owners have no case.

And if everyone decides to put a new window in to get a view? These things are there for a good reason - ignore at your peril. The problem is, once one starts, others might want to do things and before you know it, everyone is at odds with someone else. Planning right have nothing to do with the law. Having permitted development approval means nothing really. I would be prepared to bet that your £600 will tell you that you proceed at your own risk.

"And what precisely are the grounds for your complaint?" "Well, erm m'Lud, we, erm, don't like the look of it...." Welcome! To be sure there will be wider contexts to consider, but in the terms outlined above - just ignore unsubstantiated opinion.

Welcome. I think it hinges on who the "us" is in this part of the covenant: You could argue that consent is being "unreasonably withheld or delayed", as the planners don't have a problem with it and it's presumably not in breach of any byelaws. I think you probably need some legal advice as to how to interpret this, but my view would be that there isn't much the objecting co-owners could do. They could only sue you if the alteration in some way damaged their enjoyment of their own property, or if there was some other negative impact. Not liking the look of something wouldn't be grounds for action, I'm sure.

Lift up the breather paper, tuck up and staple some 225mm DPC to the sheathing and drape over the horizontal batten. Even without weep holes, any water will be trapped between the render board and the DPC and will eventually find its way down the sides.

The chippy in the photo doing it is Scottish, and said exactly the same. Then grumbled something about the English under his breath ?