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My architect rode off into the sunset a long ago and he's not coming back, so it looks like I'm the client, PD, project manager, health and safety manager, QS, and sweeper up'er. I'm not going to loose sleep over it.

Put it this way if that 32t rig sinks and topples over as it will be very top heavy when the boom is up imagine the size of the crane or cranes you will need to get it back up. Sign the cheque for £400 and get the ball rolling.

Depends on the screed but most cementitious products tend to achieve between 50-75% of strength after 7 days so should be good for a decent fix after a week. Just do a couple of test fires somewhere out of the way and see how you get on. Just remember a dpc under the sole plate to protect from damp

I toyed with the idea but my timescales are so short to not make it worth it for me, however for a longer timescale ( and wood from site usually available) I would do it .

Best decision ever!

It's not to be underestimated how challenging living in a cold damp caravan is, I am an ex mountaineer so used to cold spaces and minimum comfort. I am planning to start being on site most of the time in about a months time and because ours is already on site with no double glazing etc I gave invested in a few electric panel heaters, I know the electricity will cost but it will be cheaper than any other option. Let's pray for a warm spring

As project manager for the build then I guess I could call myself a site worker then?

Don't think offcuts of our Karndean flooring would be as effective

Up here it's normal to apply for (and usually get) temporary planning permission for a static during the build process. they then usually insert the clase that the 'van be removed upon completion of the house. But I want to keep ours as a workroom and studio. I chose it's location as one that would fit withing permitted development rights if it was sited there after the house was completed. I then pointed out that on the day of completion, I could remove the 'van and immediately replace it with an identical one and in an identical position under permitted development. They changed my planning condition to "habitational use of the caravan will cease within 2 months of completion of the house" so my 'van gets to stay legally as a studio and work space.

Try to site the van in an optimal position (away from public view, out of the wind, close to sewer line....). I did at one point have camoflauge netting covering one side too, but the hedging makes it almost impossible to see. Just waiting on the next round on Landsat imagery to appear on Google/Bing maps now! Try and get a decent van too - one with double glazing, central heating etc. I also fitted ours with a log fire. But it's still not great - space is the main issue with 2kids and 2 adults! If the wife doesn't set light to it, then I will have a decent mancave at some point. Good luck!

Well I have electricity, bottled gas and it's connected up to the old cess pit ( which will be replaced by the new treatment plant installed for the new house). There have been discussions here and elsewhere about caravans on site and needing planning permissions. I maintain ( through looking on the web) that you do not need planning permission for a caravan on site " as long as it's not a separate dwelling in its own right." We are thinking of keeping our caravan to rent out to surfers in the summer after the build and I will not connect up the toilet ( that the council will be able to see) so the caravan is dependant on the house in theory. anyway, it's a gamble, it might depend on nosey neighbours dropping you in it or a council that is on the ball.

I think Jeremy delayed the commissioning of his treatment plant on purpose so his council could not charge council tax. ( I know it was working because I used his loo ?)

You could make up a DIY temporary Tee piece fitting with a Schader valve fitter, a mains water filling point and a pressure gauge. Then you could fill the pipe work using mains water pressure, if more pressure is needed then use a foot pump via the Schader valve.

The issue I was told was getting a satisfactory join across the tie to rafter connection at the wallplate as you cannot put the webs into tension across their width so you need a connection method that ensure the top and bottom flanges are secured to the the rafters and the ceiling joists. A ridge steel is a comparatively quick calculation if it's a standard design and there are structural internal walls to place the steel onto. Other option is to use an IC at either end to stand the ridge beam on.

I have put rods on modern type worktops and they are great, frankly er indoors does not know it yet but they are going in our next kitchen.

Put a tin on the worktop with some loose change in it, when the wife asked what it's for, tell her you'er starting to save for a new worktop, as the current one will need changing soon if she continues putting hot stuff directly on it!

I have external OSB racking on the walls and roof so the Icynene was sprayed onto the OSB and expanded inwards. I've no experience of Icynene being sprayed onto roofing felt. It is a flexible foam so possibly ok. IIRC the quotes I had varied by up to 30%.

So checked it and the clocked had stopped at 9pm, turned it more than 360 degress again and guess what... It stopped again at 9pm, which is where I think it was when I first looked at it. Conclusion: the clock has a problem Solution: get a new clock Thanks guys

We had the self adhesive rods at our previous home where we had acrylic worktops. They worked well never came loose, but are stainless steel effect and marked quite easily.

I'd prob tank the top of the bath boxing and upstand. With a good seal fortified with clear CT1 that would be belt n 2 braces. You'll be buying a tanking kit anyhoo, so just buy a large kit and coat the ply top with liquid membrane. SBR may be another option, but I don't use that typically for tiling.