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Conduit? Dry lined. I need to really try to isolate where the sound comes from. I've started taking bits out of the ceiling anyway so why stop now... How loud? Well its not like a .22 rifle going off but more like loud knees or ankles cracking. Its a sharp defined sound not like a creak or squeak

Spax flooring screws are a Godsend especially if the boards were fitted with angular ring nails. "Ordinary" screws aren't a patch on the Spax ones.

does the top have a plasticky coating on it?, usually grey with a slight texture to it if so I think this is what oz is talking about and should be ok at its core, our managers keep making us put it down before the roof is on because it saves on temporarily boarding the joists for the bricks to build the second lift, we moan like hell about it because as you can see it does swell at the joints and any open cuts around stair wells, the swelling will probably be taken out by the underlay if you are having carpet but that still doesnt make it right, sanding it flat is probably the way to go. from the way it has soaked in in the first picture i would say they are not those boards and are just moisture resistant, it might still be ok but if I'm honest i wouldn't like to put my name to it

Alas, I would not get it up the stairs

Hi All - Just received notification of this document which is essentially the the course I spoke of above. Has everything you need to under stand and deliver a 'COOL' home. Mike

Here's a good reference http://www.users.waitrose.com/~ttagrevatt/vlav/works_pans.html

Ja, kein Problem Junge. Many Germans are expert scatologists for reasons explained below. We know our toilets! Spurandlos ist ein bischen kompliziert..... because of the delightfully annoying tendency of Germans to run words together spul means flush rand means edge the suffix ...los means without Literally translated edgeless flush; which is why its never a good idea to call yourself a translator - interpreter is better. The word might mean direct flush, that is, it doesn't flush the edge. For those of us who can keep it all focused and accurate perhaps. tiefspul is deep flush .... a flush for No2s flackspul, no idea, never heard of it .... spray flush, perhaps? Or maybe the toilet uses anti-aircraft guns to shoot enough flak at it all to flush it (and the toilet itself) away? Bear in mind that many Germans have what we would call an unseemly interest in scatological issue, and examine the product (which is presented on a shelf in the loo itself) before flushing. The water trap is in the front of the loo, not towards the rear. Which is what made me ask my mum whether German anatomy was the reverse of its English counterpart. I was 6 at the time. Out of the mouth of babes and children.....

Yes, lovely house. Strange ghostly monster lurking by the chimney on the left though, best give 'who you gonna call' a bell to get rid?

I would be having a word with the contractor and telling him he put down the wrong boards to be exposed and you expect them to rectify the problem at their expense. Nice looking house by the way.

I would get something over those window openings. while waiting for my windows to arrive, the openings were sheeted with OSB to keep the rain out. That looks just like "ordinary" chipboard to me. Even the green "waterproof" stuff won't stand up to much. the only one that will is something like Weyrock (the name will be clearly printed on it) that has a sort of grey waterproof coating. Get the windows covered, let it dry out and see what it is like. Put a straight edge over it and see if the joints have swelled.

@TerryE 's idea ( if I've got the right end of the stick ) is to store heat in the slab, with heat pulsed in from low tariff events from each 24 hr period of E10. That'll be achievable with a decent inline tubular heater, timed accordingly and governed by thermostatic control. So, heating sorted. Tiny outlay, and simpler than falling down when your pissed . For dhw, it seems the sunamp would suit you best. Maybe spend a few quid on the bigger unit ( 10kw? ) and then, again, you can pulse E10 in accordingly. Use the DIY Pv array to offset your vampire / parasitic loads in the daytime. After you break even on the outlay for the Pv you can then use the additional saved £££'s to start repaying for the sunamp. The most complicated part of that setup will be the button on your shower

If you've not looked at Airflow, I'm going with a small commercial unit, the DV1100, which is PH Certified, F7 filters etc. My internal volume is around 1650 m3, so I was otherwise looking at 2 residential units. Airflow will do you a free system design, Bill Of Materials, and target price for you to then take round to their distributors to get the best price.

Then just keep pressing the button!

Better system for fixing which is adjustable are these http://elemental.ie/eko-thermobrackets/ You can use any type of rainscreen cladding then on them, tiles, stone, timber, Glass Fibre Reinforced Concrete, Parklex, etc. They've a far better thermal performance than the ones in the first post. Remember all these brackets penetrate the external insulation so are all cold bridges. While small you do have a lot of them in an elevation.

Well that's it, the wall is full of concrete, tanked and back filled - if it's still standing in the morning I think it officially qualifies as a retaining wall!