which way to build?

[lizzie]

Can I ask you all if you were starting out again with a clean slate (plot) and with the benefit of hindsight with lessons learnt from current build what you would do differently and would you use the same method of construction or change?

 

I dont mean  things like do less work yourself etc. (I did nothing of consequence myself employed ‘professionals’for everything), style (thats a planjing issue) or cost and level of finishes. What I am really looking for is input on would you go down the same road again i.e. timber frame and a package for just that or would you opt for block or icf or steel frame, turnkey package, prefab, main contractor etc etc

 

 Really interested to know if you would use the same construction methods again or change. Would you stick with passiv levels of airtight, mvhr, what about solar etc.

[Ed Davies]

My build is sort-of-Segal post and beam with timber I-beams over the p&b forming an A-frame. I wouldn't do it that way again on this exposed site; I totally underestimated how much the weather, the wind particularly, slows down the work especially when doing stuff on your own. Also, the time consumed making up the blocking for the I-beams.

 

I think I'd get an MBC or similar frame put up to weather tight with the minimum internal stud-work needed for structure then do the fitting out myself.

[Alex C]

I built an mbc timber frame timber clad house and think I would do it the same again. What I would definately do the same having lived in the house now for 2 years now is to build another airtight super insulated house whatever the construction method was. The value added to quality of life by living in a warm dry house with fresh air and constant temperature far outweighs any savings in energy costs.

[Bitpipe]

Yep, would do it pretty much all the same again - more external blinds I think as I love the ones we have got and miss them where they are not installed.

 

Both basement (shuttered pour) and MBC frame were turnkey enough to remove uncertainty for a novice builder but gave enough flexibility around finishing the exterior (windows, doors, roof, render) and a semi finished interior (stud walls, floor decks) to crack on with first fix.

 

 

[jack]

We went MBC timber frame, and arranged our own follow-on trades. I'm mostly happy with the result, but I'd do some things differently if I were to start over.

 

If I had more money, I'd get a decent builder or project manager to run the job under my close supervision. If I had less money and/or more time, I'd consider doing more myself.

 

Either way, I think I'd go with some form of concrete construction. Most likely this would be ICF, possibly with separately-applied external insulation.

 

I'd insist on a screed or concrete flooring upstairs.

 

MVHR would be the first thing I'd immediately spec in any new house. I don't think I could live in a house without it again. 

 

I'd definitely shoot for similar levels of insulation and airtightness as I have now (0.6 ACH, U-values of 0.10, 0.11 and 0.12 for the floor, roof and walls respectively). I think the Passivhaus standards in these areas aren't a bad starting point.

 

I'd probably go for cheaper windows (we definitely overspent) and I'd make sure that the window suppliers were responsible for installation.

 

I'd include heating in the bathrooms (one of our biggest oversights) and would provide proper cooling via the MVHR system along with the very effective floor cooling we have at the moment. I might actually move away from carpets in the bedrooms and use rugs that could be taken up in summer. That would allow floor cooling upstairs too.

 

I'd definitely consider a basement if the site were in any way tight.

 

I have external blinds on most windows - doing this again, I'd have even more, and despite living in a safe area, I'd make them security versions in a few key places.

 

I'd add concealed flyscreens to bedroom windows to allow for overnight purge venting without insects coming in.

 

I'd make sure to allow for concealed blackout blinds in all bedrooms.

 

I'd get a lighting designer involved. While we have more than the standard ceiling warts (downlights), I'm sure a decent designer could have provided us with a much nicer result.

 

[joe90]

Although I was very impressed with MBC timber frame on passive slab build I went brick and block with passive levels of insulation, locally made very good (double glazed) windows. Whatever the construction we wanted a brick skin outside. Going timber frame would have allowed  me to do more ( I love woodwork and have all the tools). We are very pleased with the result but was lucky to have a very good builder.  Only one thing I would change is the lack of sound insulation between floors, voices can be heard so I wish I had double boarded the ceilings or sound bars for hanging the ceilings. It’s a “heavy house” and with UFH downstairs only but towel rads and electric UFH in the bathrooms we find that sufficient (well, er indoors says it’s cool sometimes but I point to the readout on the wall and say “but it’s 21’ in here!) she is only warm if she is next to a red hot radiator or roaring woodburner ?.

[Jeremy Harris]

I'd use the same build method for sure (also MBC, twin stud with blown cellulose), as the combination of good airtightness and insulation, plus the unforeseen benefit of really good acoustic insulation, makes for a really comfortable home. 

 

I'd not use the same window supplier, but would still go for aluclad 3G, but would spend a bit more on one of the better makes and fit solar reflective glass to reduce the solar gain in spring and autumn.  I'd also fit external blinds to all the windows that get any sun, as that's probably the other major regret I have. 

 

I'd have argued more forcefully to be allowed to have a different external finish, as although we like the larch cladding it has been a bit problematic with noises as it heats up and cools down and with fasteners breaking/pulling out.  It also seems to have attracted cluster flies, which are a bit of a nuisance in spring and autumn.

 

I'd not opt to fit the relatively expensive Genvex MVHR, even though it's pretty good, as it's not as effective in cooling mode as I'd like.  I think that a cheaper and simpler duct cooler plumbed to the ASHP would do as good a job, or perhaps better, and would be a bit quieter (the Genvex does make a gentle hum when its internal heat pump is running).

 

Like @jack, I'd get a lighting designer involved with the lighting in the living room, kitchen and dining room, as my efforts are functional but not very inspiring.

 

I wouldn't change the heating system at all, and we're absolutely fine with no heating in the bedrooms (it's just not needed at all, even in the coldest weather), but I would add low power electric underfloor heating in the bathrooms, just to take the chill off the stone flooring.

 

Finally, I think I'd have just bitten the bullet and spent the big wedge of cash to get mains water and drainage in.  The borehole is fine, but there is a bit of maintenance involved in keeping both it and the treatment plant working, and I think that, on balance, being connected to mains services is probably a better long term solution, especially as I get older.

[Ralph]

What's the advantage of the external blinds over internal and are they spendy?

[Jeremy Harris]

2 minutes ago, Ralph said:

What's the advantage of the external blinds over internal and are they spendy?

 

The really big advantage, other than enhanced security, is that external blinds or shutters are really effective at reducing solar gain, whereas internal blinds are nowhere near as good, as the inner panes of glass heat up and work like big radiators.

[Gone West]

The only things I would do differently would be to do less work myself and to have built in external blinds on the WNW facing glazing. Having lived in the house for a full year now we are very happy with how the house has performed overall.

[Ralph]

30 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

 

The really big advantage, other than enhanced security, is that external blinds or shutters are really effective at reducing solar gain, whereas internal blinds are nowhere near as good, as the inner panes of glass heat up and work like big radiators.

 

Now that it is interesting. I'd not really thought much about solar gain, NE Scotland not been known for the sun but we have a reasonable amount of glass so I better look into it. Thanks

[lizzie]

Guys this is all brilliant stuff thank you.

 

Interesting the number of you that mention a lighting designer.  I used one and it was worth every penny, my last house was beautiful but I left the the lighting to the builder and electrician and then spent over 20years upgrading and changing things, good lighting design in this house was right up there in my top 10 of must haves.

 

Keep the posts coming please its really good to read all this.

[janelondon]

Thanks @lizzie for starting this topic and everyone else for your thoughts. We are developing our design and considering build routes - will be reading and taking notes! 

[Declan52]

Would go for either increasing  the roof truss thickness or went for a warm roof type build up. At that stage every pound was a prisoner so just didn't have the money.  

Would still go block build as I done it myself.  If money was no option I think I would go down the icf route.  Has plenty of  plus points and is easier to lift than normal blocks. 

I think for my heating I am not sure I would go for a pellet boiler.  It is working fine 4 years in but  just think now by reading about various builds here I would choose an ashp.  Just at the time the  knowledge base in NI was  very poor so I didn't want to take the risk. 

I would definitely not pick my  high gloss porcelain tiles in my kitchen and Sunroom.  Absolutely beautiful when they are cleaned up and shining but if a fly lands on them and takes a few steps you can see it a mile away. 

[Temp]

We have a rooms-in-the-roof house. Roof stick built using 200mm deep rafters filled with PIR. It's not enough insulation. Too hot in summer as well. Fitting PIR between rafters was a nightmare job that was too easy to do badly. 

 

If building again I would either build a conventional two story house with insulation at joist level or, if it has to be room in the roof, a warm roof with the insulation above and between the rafters.

 

 

[Bitpipe]

3 hours ago, Ralph said:

What's the advantage of the external blinds over internal and are they spendy?

 

My blinds, are made by Roma but came pre-fitted to the Gaulhofer windows which made them trivial to fix, really no additional effort other than feeding the 4 core power cable through into the house.

 

We were able to design a recess into the frame at the top of each window, so they sit flush and the render runs over them - so when fully retracted are invisible from the outside.

 

Great for privacy and excellent for reducing solar gain, we have rocker switches in each room (same console as the room lighting) and it's a small adjustment during the day to adjust as the sun moves. Bedroom ones are close as soon as kids are up to keep their rooms cool.

 

Also quite robust and fairly secure, would definitely deter a casual trouble maker.

 

Were not that expensive really - I got a quote for some internal ones on the windows we omitted to spec them for and they were pretty expensive also. 

 

Maintenance wise, they can be easily replaced - ours were actually wrong colour, we only realised in first fix when we had the power to lower them. New blinds ordered and it took 20 mins per window to replace them.

 

Blinds also save on curtains, which are always surprisingly expensive.

 

For the roof Velux (Integra) , we got their external blinds - they have a box that they retract into but not that noticeable on a roof. Has a funky wireless controller that can run multiple windows.

[Bitpipe]

I'll add a pumped hot return loop for the DHW with IR sensors to activate on walking into bathrooms as another recommendation. 

[Oz07]

There's a lot we would all do for forever home I think by the time I've got my golden list together I will be to old and going into a home!

[ProDave]

The only thing I would have done different is change the site layout slightly.  This is where it is a shame planning and building control are separate processes.  The site layout was dictated by the need to provide space for a filter mound drainage system as at that stage SEPA would not allow anything else.  But then building control refused it.  After several iterations SEPA gave consent to discharge to the burn, which removed the filter mound.  If I had known that at the start, I would have moved the house to the right a couple of metres, but by this stage that would have required an amended planning application and a delay to starting.

 

 

[newhome]

Mine is timber frame. If we were doing it all again and the OH had heard of ICF I think he may have wanted to go down that route as he wanted to be really hands on but couldn't do as much of the main construction with TF. I would change the layout slightly, upgrade the bathrooms, most definitely put more insulation in the slab (a biggy!), get someone who knew how to install the bloody heating system from the get go (and probably choose a different system), lose the central vac (never use it), add solar PV, and probably go for triple glazed windows. I would also build a much smaller house as it's way too big for me. If I was building again (unlikely) I would probably choose a different style of house. I've seen lots of plans on here and have a vision of what my perfect house could be. 

[Tony99]

Wow-what a great discussion-thanks @lizzie! We are looking at MBC and it is really reassuring that so many here have used them and are happy! We are getting loads of great advice here?

A couple of questions

@joe90-are the towel rads electric or part of the wet ground floor UFH system or totally separate?

@jack-what is the advantage of screed upstairs-is it sound/heat insulation?? is there a cost implication??

and @lizzie-we have also wondered about lighting in our new build...how did you go about finding your designer?

 

many thanks! 

[joe90]

Hi Tony, towel rads are electric on timers so not on all the time, Also the heating does not come on at all in the summer months so I went for electric to dry towels whatever time of year it is.

[lizzie]

@Tony99 I looked around on the internet at various lighting designers and in the end I went for one that was relatively local to me which made it easy to have meetings at their offices.  Seeing how some of the ideas they had worked ‘in the flesh’ so to speak was really helpful in visualising how it would look.   They had sample installations of all sorts of different lighting.  

 

BTW I have timers on my towel  rails too I didnt want them on the UFH circuit.  I went for thermostatic electric towel rails and used screwfix timers.....cheap and do the job, the fancy ones electrician was suggesting were v expensive and more sophisticated than we needed.

 

[jack]

1 hour ago, Tony99 said:

 

@jack-what is the advantage of screed upstairs-is it sound/heat insulation?? is there a cost implication??

 

Sound, and particularly impact noise. It's something I find infuriating.

 

There's definitely a cost implication as you still need a fully boarded floor to support the screed. So you need to add the cost of the screed to the cost of a standard upstairs floor. Just did a quick search that said £17-18/m2 for a liquid screed.

[Moggaman]

On 04/04/2019 at 19:15, Temp said:

We have a rooms-in-the-roof house. Roof stick built using 200mm deep rafters filled with PIR. It's not enough insulation. Too hot in summer as well. Fitting PIR between rafters was a nightmare job that was too easy to do badly. 

 

If building again I would either build a conventional two story house with insulation at joist level or, if it has to be room in the roof, a warm roof with the insulation above and between the rafters.

 

 

Was it that the PIR was put in poorly?. Surely, 200mm of say pumped/sprayed foam into 200mm rafters would bring you quite close to a serious u value for the roof?