Gate Pillars

[Russell griffiths]

£120 that would buy some nice parts for an old Capri. 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said:

£120 that would buy some nice parts for an old Capri. 

 

It would tbh buy very little for an old Capri. A mint parcel shelf went for £750.

[Onoff]

Flints...

 

I've about 12 or more crates of assorted flints. Each one collected by SWMBO's late cousin, an amateur geologist who saw something in each. So for sentimental reasons they're going in the front of the pillars, 4 panels in total. 

 

I quickly knocked up a ply box and filled with sharp sand:

 

 

Then had a play with how the flints might fit look. The rough aim was a 1/2" mortar gap around each flint:

 

 

I initially favoured larger flints as per the lower half here. SWMBO favours the smaller flints in the top half. Think she's right?

 

 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2019 by Onoff

[Big Jimbo]

I think that the smaller ones look better, but it is only my personal opinion. I don't like to see quite as much motor between them so would put them a bit tighter.

[Pocster]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Flints...

 

I've about 12 or more crates of assorted flints. Each one collected by SWMBO's late cousin, an amateur geologist who saw something in each. So for sentimental reasons they're going in the front of the pillars, 4 panels in total. 

 

I quickly knocked up a ply box and filled with sharp sand:

 

 

Then had a play with how the flints might fit look. The rough aim was a 1/2" mortar gap around each flint:

 

 

I initially favoured larger flints as per the lower half here. SWMBO favours the smaller flints in the top half. Think she's right?

 

 

 

 

I think some glazing over that would look incredible!

[Construction Channel]

The perfect sized flint is about the size of your fist. On such small panels you really can pick and choose your flints. Interweave them between courses as much as you can without it looking silly. The less muck showing the better ??

[Onoff]

12 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

The perfect sized flint is about the size of your fist. On such small panels you really can pick and choose your flints. Interweave them between courses as much as you can without it looking silly. The less muck showing the better ??

 

My fist is then about as big or a bit bigger than what I'm calling the "big" flints.

 

Just about to watch some YouTube vids on lime mortar. Someone did say to me the way to lay them was to do in 9" high courses and strap a scaffold board to the pillar front whilst it goes off?

[Russell griffiths]

Tighten the joints up, looks a bit heavy on the mortar. 

[Construction Channel]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

My fist is then about as big or a bit bigger than what I'm calling the "big" flints.

 

Just about to watch some YouTube vids on lime mortar. Someone did say to me the way to lay them was to do in 9" high courses and strap a scaffold board to the pillar front whilst it goes off?

 

If you lay them behind a board I will never speak to you again. 

 

If you are planning to make the panel removable just lay them Like cobbles on the flat in which case you can just make it look pretty and not worry too much about the way the flints are laid. 

 

If you're planning to do it properly then they should be laid to a line in courses. The line is just a guide to keep the courses roughly level and the face flat. Try not to leave a forward slope on the top of each course otherwise the next layer will potentially slide out. If you are not planning to put any cement in the mix you will only be able to do a Handful of courses each day. Then go back to rake out (stick) the joints the next day before you continue with the next courses. 

Also flint laying muck is a lot stiffer than bricklaying gear. 

Let it turn for ages and try to avoid adding too much water. 

THE MUCK IS JUST THERE TO HOLD THE FLINTS IN PLACE. NOT TO STICK THEM TOGETHER. 

 

hth

 

[Construction Channel]

Flint laying varies across the country but these are some of our local walls around Audley end house. 

Notice the courses. 

 

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Tighten the joints up, looks a bit heavy on the mortar. 

 

Small ones look better d'you think?

[Onoff]

31 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

 

If you lay them behind a board I will never speak to you again. 

 

If you are planning to make the panel removable just lay them Like cobbles on the flat in which case you can just make it look pretty and not worry too much about the way the flints are laid. 

 

If you're planning to do it properly then they should be laid to a line in courses. The line is just a guide to keep the courses roughly level and the face flat. Try not to leave a forward slope on the top of each course otherwise the next layer will potentially slide out. If you are not planning to put any cement in the mix you will only be able to do a Handful of courses each day. Then go back to rake out (stick) the joints the next day before you continue with the next courses. 

Also flint laying muck is a lot stiffer than bricklaying gear. 

Let it turn for ages and try to avoid adding too much water. 

THE MUCK IS JUST THERE TO HOLD THE FLINTS IN PLACE. NOT TO STICK THEM TOGETHER. 

 

hth

 

 

Thanks. No it won't be removable panels.What's a fist size  80x80mm maybe?

 

And now more questions! ?

 

Can the lime mortar be hand mixed on a board?

 

Selecting the flints, do you avoid ones that although flat look as though the face has imperfections in? I've yet to try knapping. Do you dress them or just use whatever fits?

Edited November 17, 2019 by Onoff

[Construction Channel]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Thanks. No it won't be removable panels.What's a fist size  80x80mm maybe?

 

And now more questions! ?

 

Can the lime mortar be hand mixed on a board?

 

Selecting the flints, do you avoid ones that although flat look as though the face has imperfections in? I've yet to try knapping. Do you dress them or just use whatever fits?

 

Roughly 80mm high and 100mm deep by whatever length helps keep it to brick courses. 

As for selecting flints you can't be too picky but it is worth spending time to make sure each one nestles well with its surrounding stones. 

It's a natural product so it's a fine line between having character or imperfections. Probably best to avoid cracks though. 

 

We used to "nap" them to an extent. Eg if it was too big it got hit with a hammer to take the bits off I didn't want. 

[Construction Channel]

This was my first ever private job ?

[Onoff]

Just now, Construction Channel said:

 

Roughly 80mm high and 100mm deep by whatever length helps keep it to brick courses. 

As for selecting flints you can't be too picky but it is worth spending time to make sure each one nestles well with its surrounding stones. 

It's a natural product so it's a fine line between having character or imperfections. Probably best to avoid cracks though. 

 

Thanks. Interestingly those green trays the flints are sitting in are full of water. They've been in there for a couple of years I guess. The water has got into a couple and frozen, splitting them along I guess what are natural fault lines. 

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, Construction Channel said:

This was my first ever private job ?

 

Nice. Interesting how it's not just the "black" faces pointing outward (which is what we're wanting). 

 

Took this of a pillar I passed somewhere en route to Hever Castle from memory, as I say just the black faces pointing out. I'll stop tomorrow at out church and have a look at theirs:

 

[Construction Channel]

I can't find the picture at the moment but if I get a chance later I'll go and take a pic of some of the work on the local church. They napped the flints square and it looks very impressive.  

[Onoff]

Just now, Construction Channel said:

I can't find the picture at the moment but if I get a chance later I'll go and take a pic of some of the work on the local church. They napped the flints square and it looks very impressive.  

 

I watch a video of knapping, pick up a flint and think wtf? It's a proper art. I really must make a set of boppers.

[Onoff]

Very unlike me but I've just BOUGHT a set of copper boppers. 

[Onoff]

The wall around a big, posh place near me. Just the black faces showing:

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

@mvincentd, ref your question on

@nod's thread about the flint. Didn't even know a glint guillotine existed!

 

I'll be shaping them myself. 

 

To that end I bought a set of copper boppers aforementioned. I virtually destroyed the largest last night within about ten mins of getting it out of the packing! 

 

Think you have to identify a concave surface at which to strike but I think I need a bigger striking tool. A cross between an ice pick but with the weight and width of a club hammer

 

 

 

So far I'm just making flakes and chips! ?

 

 

[mvincentd]

 I only knapped a few bits under instruction from my block worker, but using his knapping hammer it was easy to make a successful strike.  The harder bit was identifying where to strike...he'd get it right 6 out of 7 times, id get it 1 out of 3.  Unfortunately i dont recall the rule for where to strike now.  His hammer was fairly short handled, not that heavy, and had a 'flat blade' head akin to an inch wide bolster.

 

EDIT; it was called a scotch hammer.  put the underside of your flint against the edge of a block where you want it to split, hit the top where you want it to split.

Edited November 23, 2019 by mvincentd

[nod]

On 17/11/2019 at 22:20, Onoff said:

 

Nice. Interesting how it's not just the "black" faces pointing outward (which is what we're wanting). 

 

Took this of a pillar I passed somewhere en route to Hever Castle from memory, as I say just the black faces pointing out. I'll stop tomorrow at out church and have a look at theirs:

 

We are not far from Lytham St Anne’s  There are lots of Victorian garden walls done in this style 

[Onoff]

4 hours ago, mvincentd said:

scotch hammer

 

Scutch hammer I presume:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/scutch-hammer/p12101?

 

Edit: I've ordered the one from Toolstation.

Edited November 23, 2019 by Onoff

[Cpd]

You need to be very careful if using a scutch hammer with a comb in it if hitting really hard stone as the combs can shatter and they can cause serious damage to you. I know as I still have a big bit of comb in the top of my hand, the surgeon said he would do more damage taking it out so said to leave it alone until it caused problems....... 10 years ago. So remember always wear gloves and eye protection. I have not read the whole thread but a scutch hammer is designed for use on mortar and stones  such as sandstone, not hard stone like flint......