Onoff

Gate Pillars

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I've gotten as far as building the gate that slides in and out albeit by hand at the moment. I've trialled the motor and rack & pinion drive but have not fitted it yet permanently as I'm remotely siting the control board.

 

g_001

 

I want to take advantage of the periodic deals Travis Perkins offer on bricks for the pillars. Shown mocked up in blocks here.

 

SAM_8333

 

As the pillars will be part set in the banks either side is there a frost proof rating to look for? Ideally I'd like to get away with having a dpc in the column or if I must then get the footing bricks to match those above. Thinking maybe do the whole thing in an engineering brick?

Edited by Onoff

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22 minutes ago, Onoff said:

As the pillars will be part set in the banks either side is there a frost proof rating to look for? Ideally I'd like to get away with having a dpc in the column or if I must then get the footing bricks to match those above. Thinking maybe do the whole thing in an engineering brick?

The top frost rating for bricks is F2 with F2/L2 bricks being the highest grade you can get (the L rating refers to salts and the bricks tendency to show efflorescence)

Under the previous standard it was F/L for frost resistant/low efflorescence and some manufacturers still use this description.

 

Edited by Ian
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If you don’t want engineering bricks all the way up,why not make it wider by half a brick at the bottom & step it in with a plinth course & then facing brick?

Looks nice on a pillar,IMO. 

The size you show would be 2.5 bricks square,the smallest dimension for true Flemish bond,if you wanted. 

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2 hours ago, Brickie said:

If you don’t want engineering bricks all the way up,why not make it wider by half a brick at the bottom & step it in with a plinth course & then facing brick?

Looks nice on a pillar,IMO. 

The size you show would be 2.5 bricks square,the smallest dimension for true Flemish bond,if you wanted. 

 

Sounds good. Don't suppose you have a picture of something like that?

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https://goo.gl/images/WZUXSp

Here’s a plinth detail,though not on a pillar. Single course of plinth maybe looks better in your scenario. Care needs to be taken when setting out,that you’re setting out for the reduced wall above,& the courses up to plinth are built accordingly,or you can end up with massive or tight perps when you reduce. The mitres on the plinth also need care,unless you can get specials for the corners which look much better & make the job less hassle. 

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On 12/06/2018 at 13:20, Brickie said:

https://goo.gl/images/WZUXSp

Here’s a plinth detail,though not on a pillar. Single course of plinth maybe looks better in your scenario. Care needs to be taken when setting out,that you’re setting out for the reduced wall above,& the courses up to plinth are built accordingly,or you can end up with massive or tight perps when you reduce. The mitres on the plinth also need care,unless you can get specials for the corners which look much better & make the job less hassle. 

 

I'll make a lockable guide that I'll slide up the (dead vertical) 100 x 100 steel post so I can't go wrong. 

 

I'll also make a "Bricky" esque thing so all my mortar joints are equal and there's very little if any waste or stuff going down inside the pillar.

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Anyone take a punt at what bricks these are. Sourced and bought in west Kent is all I know!

 

gp.thumb.jpg.a7da07ca72b7901c95a813880aac22c9.jpg

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Me again...still thinking about my gate pillars! Selco have some on offer. Toss up between Tuscan & Tabasco reds:

 

https://www.selcobw.com/tuscan-red-brick-65mm

 

https://www.selcobw.com/baggeridge-tabasco-red-brick-65mm

 

F2 frost resistance. Could I build with straight off the concrete base i.e. no dpc?

 

However....looking at the posts & I have to create pillars around and I wondered whether gabion style pillars would work? Weld together 4 vertical sides of say 30x50 Lionweld open steel flooring as a column then fill from the top with flints which grow with abandon around here.

 

Madness?

 

Worries include cost, ideally I'd get the raw steel and fabricate here with inset edges for brick lights the control box etc. I'd then have to transport for galvanizing then collect later. 

 

Would they, as the flints were dropped in from the top chip the galvanizing off leading to rusting?

 

If money were no object I'd do in stainless steel. 

 

http://www.pwnash.co.uk/Prod-6a.htm

 

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On 01/05/2019 at 17:08, Onoff said:

Me again...still thinking about my gate pillars! Selco have some on offer. Toss up between Tuscan & Tabasco reds:

 

https://www.selcobw.com/tuscan-red-brick-65mm

 

https://www.selcobw.com/baggeridge-tabasco-red-brick-65mm

 

F2 frost resistance. Could I build with straight off the concrete base i.e. no dpc?

 

However....looking at the posts & I have to create pillars around and I wondered whether gabion style pillars would work? Weld together 4 vertical sides of say 30x50 Lionweld open steel flooring as a column then fill from the top with flints which grow with abandon around here.

 

Madness?

 

Worries include cost, ideally I'd get the raw steel and fabricate here with inset edges for brick lights the control box etc. I'd then have to transport for galvanizing then collect later. 

 

Would they, as the flints were dropped in from the top chip the galvanizing off leading to rusting?

 

If money were no object I'd do in stainless steel. 

 

http://www.pwnash.co.uk/Prod-6a.htm

 

 

Bump.

 

Anyone? @Brickie on the assumption you are one? 

 

Looking to order bricks this weekend rather then any exotic gabion esque thing! 

 

Might lay them as a helix though...

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I think you could build all in f2 without dpc. Why not put some solid engineerings in if your worried about breaking bond with plastic dpc. At least this would stop rising salts/efflouressense in future 

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2 hours ago, Oz07 said:

I think you could build all in f2 without dpc. Why not put some solid engineerings in if your worried about breaking bond with plastic dpc. At least this would stop rising salts/efflouressense in future 

 

Thanks. You're meaning say 3 courses for instance of (red) engineering bricks first?

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Yes why not?

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Build them square. 

Not helix not fooking elliptical, just fooking square. 

Good god man do you not like anything straight forward. 

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Posted (edited)

Just buy some bloody spiral bricks.

 

https://www.ibstockbrick.co.uk/kevington/specialshapes/spiral-bricks/

 

If you really want to do it properly, build it solid out of blue engineering bricks, then carve it by hand into statues of a pair of bobbing dogs, and 2 sausages forever just out of reach.

 

F

Edited by Ferdinand
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On 03/05/2019 at 21:42, Onoff said:

 

Bump.

 

Anyone? @Brickie on the assumption you are one? 

 

Looking to order bricks this weekend rather then any exotic gabion esque thing! 

 

Might lay them as a helix though...

Bit busy at the mo-whereabouts are you? 

Might know someone. 

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53 minutes ago, Brickie said:

Bit busy at the mo-whereabouts are you? 

Might know someone. 

 

Sevenoaks but I'll be doing it all myself and not getting anyone in.

 

Option 1:

- 3 courses smooth red engineering brick

- F2 bricks thereafter 

 

Option 2

- F2 bricks all the way, straight off the concrete base.

 

Mocked up with a few Celcon block. If a DPC goes down not sure on just a strip one the width of the "bricks" or a big one piece one, the area of the pillar itself:

 

SAM_8333

 

I will make a Bricky esque tool that clamps to the 100 x 100 post that you slide up to ensure complete dimensional accuracy and a constant thickness mortar bed.

 

I also thinking about infilling with mass concrete at least up to "Tesco van bumper height". I need to be VERY sure all my ducts for brick lights, intercom, sensors etc are in place beforehand and that there's eps blocks or similar  in place in lieu of bricks to be dug out later for the brick lights.

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You will need to come up higher than 3 course of engineering bricks as in that pic you ground slopes.

so the 3 courses need to come up 3 courses above that high point of ground, no point putting them or a damp course lower than finished ground level. 

 

Why not not just go 600mm high engineering bricks and then your face bricks, no damp course in garden wall, don’t over think it they will be covered in green mouldy shit in a years time. 

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4 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

You will need to come up higher than 3 course of engineering bricks as in that pic you ground slopes.

so the 3 courses need to come up 3 courses above that high point of ground, no point putting them or a damp course lower than finished ground level. 

 

Why not not just go 600mm high engineering bricks and then your face bricks, no damp course in garden wall, don’t over think it they will be covered in green mouldy shit in a years time. 

 

Why not do all of it in Eng. Bricks.

 

They only cost about 20p extra each.

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Posted (edited)

 

20 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

 

Why not do all of it in Eng. Bricks.

 

They only cost about 20p extra each

 

Don't really like the look of them, too smooth and shiny and they don't match the garage pillars. 

Edited by Onoff

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Posted (edited)

Reckon I need to come up a good bit with engineering bricks to make 6" above ground! That's about 8 courses if 600mm. Might just do 3 courses then wrap the base 2' out of the ground in a black membrane and just cut it to the eventual ground slope. A bit like a post saver.

 

2019-05-05_11-57-54

 

Made a faux pas way back with the posts. After welding I ran gear oil down inside them so all faces were coated. I then gun foamed the insides. Why I don't know. Means the grey painted face condensates quite a bit. Think I'll paint with black bitumen before doing the brickwork.

Edited by Onoff

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Posted (edited)

Little tip for engineering bricks-paint them with linseed oil on the day of use. You’ll need to wear gloves when laying but saves all the after care with them. 

Edited by Brickie
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9 minutes ago, Brickie said:

Little tip for engineering bricks-paint them with linseed oil on the day of use. You’ll need to wear gloves when laying but saves all the after care with them. 

 

What all over? Doesn't that affect the mortar bonding to them or do you just paint the faces when laid?

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7 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

What all over? Doesn't that affect the mortar bonding to them or do you just paint the faces when laid?

Just the faces that’ll be seen. 

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